Take Asia’s best-loved signature dish and add an ingredient almost wiped from the earth by the Khmer Rouge –the marriage of fresh rock crab with pepper vines grown in the rich Manganese soils around the small town of Kampot in south-west Cambodia. It’s a crustacean creation that could dethrone Singapore as the region’s culinary crab capital.
Writer-photographer Justin Eeles gives his verdict
Kampot Pepper Crab is reappearing on the gourmet radar as production of the wonderfully pungent and aromatic local pepper slowly begins to return to the levels that existed prior to the decades of civil strife that have punctuated Cambodia’s recent history. During Pol Pot’s desperate rule, all crops other than rice fell severely out of favour; the pepper farms of Cambodia’s southwest coast were either flooded to make way for paddy fields or went into steep decline. After 20 years of war, production had all but ceased.
Following years of stability, however, pepper farming has now made a comeback and each year more vines are being planted in the hope that production will return to pre-war levels. There are currently plans for Kampot pepper to attain special Geographical Indicator (GI) status – the same protection that prevents international sparkling wine producers from using the word Champagne – which, it is hoped, will lead to increased productivity and quality screening.
In ancient times, pepper was the super spice everybody wanted in their shakers. Known as black gold well before oil was, the search for a pepper supply, and the fight to secure it, sparked conflict between the main maritime powers of Britain, Portugal and Holland. It was only after the Portuguese lost their stranglehold of the trade to the Dutch in the late 17th century that the high price declined and trade began to boom. During the spice trade, the majority of pepper originated from the Malabar Coast of India, but production soon expanded into South-East Asia as demand grew and the area around Kampot provided perfect conditions for the crop.
Pepper became a major crop in this part of Cambodia at the end of the 19th century thanks to the Aceh war in Indonesia. The Sultan of Aceh reportedly burnt his entire crop to prevent the Dutch getting their hands on it, which lead to a higher demand for Khmer pepper. During the French colonial rule of Indochina, production grew exponentially, and in early-20th-century France it was regarded as the world’s finest. Kampot pepper became a major export with thousands of tonnes consumed annually. No self-respecting French chef ’s kitchen would be without it.
Until recently, I tended to take pepper and salt for granted, holding them in lower culinary esteem than
more fashionable, exotic ingredients. Finely chopping a stalk of lemongrass or shredding a kaffir lime leaf felt more creative than simply adding a pinch of salt or pepper. Then gourmet salt sparked a revival, and now no cook’s kitchen is without some form of flaked sea salt to add an artistic sprinkle. After experiencing how Kampot pepper can transform a simple dish into something superb, I think it’s this pepper’s turn in the limelight.
Situated between the mountains and the sea, the sleepy towns of Kampot and nearby Kep were popular holiday escapes from the capital for both the colonial French and wealthy Khmers after independence. The imposing Bokor Hill nearby was a popular hill station retreat for the French, who built a large casino resort at the summit supported by shops and a small church. The nine months it took to build reportedly cost 900 lives, but they are not the only ghosts that inhabit the misty ruins of this poignant colonial remnant.
In its heyday, Kep was known as the Cambodian Riviera, dubbed “La Perle de la Côte d’Agathe” by the French, frequented by the ruling Khmer class and foreign dignitaries after independence and then flattened by the bombs of the Khmer Rouge. However, in tune with resurgence of the local cash crop and the country’s recent years of development and stability, the area is slowly returning to its former glory. Although the majority of the burnt out shells of colonial villas remain just that, a few have recently been converted into boutique resorts in the hope that the region will again draw the world’s rich and famous to its shores. Others reveal brand new gateposts, signalling that the days of Kep being a forgotten ghost town are numbered. On Bokor Hill, developers have similar aspirations and plans for a new multi-million dollar casino resort are already underway with a new road being carved out of the mountain.
For now though Kep and much of the coast is gloriously quiet and laidback. With sandy beaches, beautiful islands and fabulous local cuisine, it’s the secret you don’t want to let out in case the area goes the way of its more developed neighbours, swapping coastal karma utopia for concrete-jungle development. Kep itself doesn’t have a good beach but a short boat ride takes you to Koh Tonsay, or Rabbit Island, where peaceful golden sands and crystal waters await. Here, beach shacks provide basic accommodation and the handful of small cafés dotted along the sand are the ideal place to enjoy the regional speciality.
My first taste of the local pepper was the dipping sauce provided in small saucers with each dish at Yeah’s
beachside restaurant, the first to offer accommodation on the island. A mixture of ground black Kampot pepper, salt and lemon juice, this simple but delectable sauce is addictive. Try it with fish, chicken and of course the fresh rock crabs – I tried it with everything and it tasted fantastic.
One place the crowds do still flock on the weekends for their pepper fix is Kep’s bustling crab market. Here a cluster of colourful stalls hang over the ocean from where the crabs are literally plucked from baskets upon order. With other seafood on offer, it’s the perfect place to enjoy some excellent-value local fare while watching the crab catchers in action.
Nearby, eco-lodge The Vine Retreat is counting on both the resurgence of Kampot pepper as well as guests more attracted to natural surroundings. Opened last October, this gorgeous eight-room retreat has planted 300 pepper poles over its 10-hectare organic garden set up to feed guests and introduce new crops to local farmers. Each pole should generate up to three kilos of pepper per year. Owner David Pred’s vision is a self-sufficient destination designed to educate and employ local Khmers while providing quality accommodation with no carbon footprint. “We’re trying
hard not to impact the environment in a negative way,” he tells me. “We run our generator on biodiesel, grow pesticide-free organic produce and use solar power to heat water. We’ve also developed a livelihood centre where villagers can produce natural products to stimulate the local economy.”
In a country where more than 30% of the population falls below the poverty line, this is good news. The Vine is a positive example of sustainable tourism which will hopefully inspire others to follow the same path. It also serves the best food I’ve tasted in a long time, from freshly baked bread in the morning to pepper-infused delicacies at night, all enjoyed at a long communal table.
As word spreads about the delights of the Cambodian coastline and the road infrastructure improves throughout the country, there’s no doubt this area will become developed, transforming sleepy coastal villages into bustling tourist centres. For now though, it’s recommended for the more traditional seaside escape – one made up of peace, relaxation and fine food.
Island Escapes
FROM SIHANOUKVILLE
Wave goodbye to the crowds and explore one of more than a dozen islands sprinkled in the waters off Sihanoukville. About 1.5hrs from town, depending on the speed of your vessel, lies Koh Russei (Bamboo Island), an ideal place to start your barefoot adventure. Here there are a couple of basic restaurants, as well as simple beachfront bungalows for overnight stays – such as the wonderfully named Bimbamboo. Completely isolated and with no electricity, think unadulterated relaxation. For divers, the Sihanoukville reefs are rich with sea anemones, stingrays, sea urchins and baby sharks, and are well known for seahorse spotting. Some of the best diving is around Koh Tang and Koh Prins, both of which require an overnight trip. Good snorkelling spots include the coral-rich Koh Khteah, just a couple of kilometres from Sihanoukville’s most southern stretch of sand, Otres Beach. Further afield, other options include Koh Ta Khieu, Koh Rong and Koh Rong Salmon, which all feature fabulously isolated beaches and fresh seafood shacks.
Boat transportation can easily be organised at most Sihanoukville guesthouses, as well as dive companies such as The Dive Shop Cambodia. This PADI dive centre recently set up at Cinderella’s Beach Bungalow on Otres Beach, with the main shop located in Sihanoukville.
Serendipity Beach Rd; www.diveshopcambodia.com
FROM KEP
For a real rustic beach experience, skip rocky Kep Beach and head over to sandy Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay), regarded by many as having some of the best beaches in the region.
As you ferry across from Kep, you’ll be greeted by a perfect row of palm trees that line the main beachfront. The lure of freshly grilled seafood at any of the open-air restaurants here is hard to resist. Once you’ve had your fill, lounge by the ocean on hammocks or raised bamboo platforms, trek across the island to discover lesser-populated stretches of sand. Overnight stays are possible in cute thatched bungalows on stilts.
Rabbit Island is a 30-minute ride from Kep’s boat dock and costs US$5 per person or US$20 for the whole boat. You may see flying fish skimming playfully over the water. Back in Kep, The Vine Retreat can be found at www.thevineretreat.com
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