
Thomas Pickard reveals two contrasting images of the coral-island nation
PHOTO: THOMAS PICKARD/AURORA PHOTOS
The Maldives is breathtaking. Each atoll appears as an oasis in a watery desert, exposing at once the fragility and beauty of these lagoon-enclosing coral islands. This nation of 1,300 low-lying isles forms one of the planet’s most complex reef systems, with each circular or horseshoe-shaped atoll also making it one of the world’s flattest – its highest point just 1.2m above sea level. Look this country in the eye and you will see fear in those great big blues – global warming is threatening the reefs. Responding to the danger of rising sea levels, the government recently signed a deal for the construction of a 75-megawatt wind farm on Gaafaru in North Malé Atoll. The farm should reduce the country’s carbon emissions by 20%, a step towards becoming carbon-neutral. The biggest problem for this nation, however, is that it’s not located in a carbon-neutral world.

PHOTO: THOMAS PICKARD/AURORA PHOTOS
Welcome to the Malé, the Maldives’ capital. This tiny island has seen land reclaimed from the sea over the years to accommodate an ever-increasing population (land reclamation describes a coastal area that has been rebuilt or taken back from the ocean). Barely 1.77 sq km in size and with more than 103,000 residents, Malé crams in more than 58,000 people per sq km. For those holidaying on the outer atolls, a day trip to the capital, with its narrow, scooter-filled streets, couldn’t provide more of a contrast. To get a feel of local life, watch commercial fishermen as they unload freshly caught yellowfin tuna at the biggest fish market in the country; visit the man-made beach in the late afternoon; or simply try some Maldivian short eats, or snacks, at any of the numerous teahouses.