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hello old chum
sukhothai’s most intriguing monument
THE ARCHITECTURE OF WAT SI CHUM, IN THE ancient ruins of Sukhothai, might be described in modern-day corporate lingo as having “managed expectations”. Indeed there isn’t any other explanation for why one of the most enigmatic and inspiring statues of Buddha in Sukhothai Historical Park is encased on four sides by a mondop (a square, spired building). Visible only from a thin opening at the front is a 15m smiling Siddharta with eyes downcast, playing a centuries-old game of peek-a-boo. Only once you’ve entered the mondop do you see the monument in all its glory – quietly majestic with one hand in his lap. The statue’s other long, thin-fingered hand rests over its knee, in a symbolic position called bhumisparsa mudra – a call to earth to bear witness to the truth of Buddha’s words. In tribute, devotees paste sheets of hammered gold leaf, kneel forward on their haunches and off er flowers. Non-believers simply look on awe-struck, in respectful silence, taking in Wat Si Chum one small bit at a time, as its builders undoubtedly intended. – Sabina-Leah Fernandez
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