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TASTE
eat and drink local flavours to savour
CITY SIPPING
While coffee grown in Laos’ Bolaven Plateau is considered one of the world’s most delicious caff eine fixes, those who have tried a cup of traditional café lao (bottom right, strong filtered coffee with sweet condensed milk, usually served iced) can be put off by the sugary top notes. The good news for those without sweet teeth is that Laotian coff ee culture, especially in Luang Prabang, is now diversifying. From roadside homebrews to sophisticated espresso joints, here are four favourites:
1. CHEAP AND CHEERFUL: Night Market and Roadside Stalls
At the budget end, the nightly bazaar on Sisavangvong Rd offers good-value beans (top) for just US$1, and there are several stalls off ering hot and cold coffee. During the day various stalls opposite the Ancient Luang Prabang hotel also off er caffeine from just US$0.60. Come at lunchhour and you’ll have to queue alongside a rush of schoolchildren eagerly awaiting Oreo coff ee shakes.
2. SWISH AND SAVVY: Saffron Caffé
Receiving rave reviews, this is a fairly new addition to the local coffee scene. Run by David Dale and his wife, Saffron is unique in using beans that are grown and roasted in Luang Prabang. Well-trained staff serve everything from rich, dark espressos to frothy cappuccinos, and the excellent iced caramel macchiato takes the heat off nicely. Mekong River views come free of charge. Near L’Elephant Restaurant, tel +856 (0)2 0539 9557.
3. OLD FAVOURITE: Joma Bakery Café
This long-established institution near the post offi ce only uses fair-trade organic coffee from southern Laos (bottom left) and also boasts an extensive food menu. “Our mocha freeze is a big hit with visitors in the warm weather. But Lao locals seem to go more for the espresso,” says manager Debra Freeman. Th Chao Fa Ngun, tel +856 (0) 7125 2292, www.joma.biz
4. BEST OF BOTH: Rimwang Guesthouse
Near the entrance to Phousi Mountain, this is an affordable option for both traditional Lao coff ee and a decent café latte. There’s also a nice selection of take-home beans and organic tea.
Off Sisavangvong Road, tel +856 (0) 7121 2148 – Words and images by Daniel Allen
IN SINGAPORE YOU MUST TRY…
Camarones al diablo at the brand new suburban outlet of Café Iguana, the city-state’s most popular Mexican cantina (above, 12 Greenwood Avenue, tel +65 6462 1533, www.. cafeiguana.com). The chef sautés tiger prawns with fiery habanero chilli, lime and spices, and serves it with quesadilla – cheese and mild poblano chilli in tortilla bread (right).
Die-hard fans are thrilled with the second, quieter Iguana, which sits in a row of family-friendly eateries surrounded by Greenwood Avenue’s sprawling mansions. At the maiden Riverside Point restaurant, punters often have to queue for a table; views of Clarke Quay across the water make for prime dining real estate. Its popularity is unsurprising; on top of the its Mexi-licious meals (salsa, gaucamole and tortilla chips are made fresh daily), Iguana offers margaritas by the jug, a wide range of 100%-agave tequilas and, most importantly, a lively, unpretentious vibe.
PIPING HOT
Three newly opened restaurants fresh out of the oven:
Face Bangkok, a trendy cluster of restaurants and bars off Sukhumvit Road, has just launched Japanese sushi bar Misaki (Soi 38, tel +66 (0)2 713 6048, www.facebars.com). Taking the helm is Kenji Nakayama, a chef seconded from Tokyo who deftly chooses the finest raw fish for discerning Japanese tastes. Tuck into some excellent sushi and sashimi, followed by mains like the mouth-watering wagyu sirloin beef with wasabi and a citrusy ponzu sauce.
Speaking of wine and dine collectives, Zense (left , Level 17, Zen World, Central World Mall, tel +66 (0)2 100 9898, www.zensebangkok.com) is the latest addition to the city’s rooft op offerings – atop ZEN World building. Take in the stunning view of downtown Bangkok while dining from any of four kitchens: Thai, Italian, Japanese and Indian. Zen president Allan Namchaisiri says: “In Bangkok, there is no other rooftop restaurant that offers a combination of four different cuisines for such price and quality.”
Further west there’s Samot (Sivutha Road, tel +855 (0) 9241 0400), one of Siem Reap’s newest seafood restaurants (its name means “sea” in Khmer). Chef de Cuisine Patrick Guerry’s menu includes locally caught shrimp, shellfish and scallops, along with indulgent French favourites like foie gras, oysters and caviar when in season. Guerry recommends the 10-course seafood tasting menu, with a choice of meats and two (yes, two) desserts.
artsy bartsy hong kong’s picture perfect bars
THE ART OF DRINKING
Turning resolutely away from cookie-cutter lobby bars, Hong Kong hoteliers are looking to art movements for inspiration. The result is a duo of watering holes that are masterpieces in their own right. The first is Th e Peninsula Hong Kong’s Salon de Ning (Basement, Salisbury Road, Kowloon, tel +852 2920 2888, www.salondening. com). At this shrine to art deco, patrons literally step into works of art – the entryway to each themed room is lined with gilded frames, affecting life-size tableaux of “Boudoir”, “Africa” (above) or “Ski” hanging on the wall.
In the vein of the decadent ‘30s, Salon de Ning offers its own private-label Rosé Champagne: fruity, full-bodied Pinot Noir that uses only Premiers Crus and Grands Crus grapes.
Not to be outdone is boutique hotel darling Th e Luxe Manor. Their newly opened Dada Lounge and Bar (Level 2, 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel +852 3763 8778, www.dadalounge.com.hk) takes inspiration from the visual art style of the same name. Surrealistic surrounds with generous helpings of tongue-in-cheek wit are the order of the day here: ornate, over the top and menacingly beautiful. The lounge’s main bar is flanked with horse sculptures reminiscent of the works of Salvador Dali.
Then there are three themed rooms dubbed Heaven, Hell and Eden. Darkly sensual, Hell’s flooring looks like boiling lava while Eden is brightly encased in floral creepers (above right).
Designer Jacky Wong’s only regret is not having a bigger space in which to realise his dream-like imaginings. For a few more of those there’s Club Miniaci, Dada Lounge’s permanent art gallery, which houses works by contemporary Italian artists including – of course – Dali etchings.
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