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ISLAND IN THE STREAM
TOURISTS MAY BE FLOCKING TO LAOS, BUT THE UNSPOILT RIVER ISLAND OF DON DAENG REMAINS IN A CHARMING TIME WARP, WRITES ANDREW BURKE
EVEN FOR THIS PART OF LAOS, WHERE BRIDGES ARE FEW and all river transport has a certain unglamorous pragmatism, the ferry to Don Daeng is a simple affair. Two narrow wooden boats of different lengths joined catamaran-style by grey boards. In the back, a small man crouches beside the motor of his longtail. I sit on the ferry’s one concession to luxury, a rattan chair.
This type of conveyance is unremarkable for the inhabitants of Don Daeng, an island in the Mekong 35km south of the regional capital Pakse. There are no cars on the island, so there is no car ferry. The few minutes it takes to cross the swollen brown river, flowing fast with its seemingly infinite cargo of monsoon rainwater, emphasises for me that even by the standards of ultra-laid-back Laos, I am coming to a refreshingly uncomplicated part of the world.
Stretching along the Mekong like a lazy old crocodile, this 8km-long island is thought to have been inhabited since the days of the Chenla kingdom more than 1,500 years ago. The red soil foundations of an ancient temple and a crumbling stupa in the middle of the island link this place to the age when the nearby World Heritage Site of Wat Phu – just across the Mekong – was an important centre for the Angkorian empire.
Such glories have long since disappeared from Don Daeng.
Today the island has 3,500 inhabitants living in eight villages, which are linked by a sandy track around the perimeter. Th eir lifestyle is as typically Lao as it gets; its residents’ livelihoods revolve largely around fishing and rice farming, while some villages and families specialise in weaving baskets, making knives and brewing lao lao, the local rice wine. Since the first lodgings were built two years ago, tourism has arrived on the island, though even the busiest nights see fewer than 50 people sleeping here.
As I ride along the track in Ban Hua Don Daeng, which literally means “village at the head of Don Daeng”, I sense the islanders haven’t yet become jaded by the influx of tourism. Adults and children wave and call greetings as I pass.
The track is lined with traditional Lao homes, raised about 2m off the ground. A girl sits on the steps of one, combing her sister’s hair; in front of her a woman waits for customers in an open-sided shop made from bamboo. I pass two women pushing a barrow of vegetables and girls carrying fishing nets. In the middle of the track, brown cows sit chewing grass, unconcerned by the passing traffic as they await the next downpour.
The island offers three distinct types of accommodation, and today I’m heading for the newest and most extravagant of them. Stretching along 300m of riverbank, La Folie Lodge is made up of a dozen duplex bungalows spread either side of a sprawling centrepiece. The design is a tasteful mix of traditional and colonial-era styles. The curving balustrade of the white-painted staircase has a recognisably French flavour, a theme extended with classic posters advertising Grand Parisy Champagne, Martini vermouth and ‘Karlini, the Great Magician’.
After the trip from Pakse, the riverside pool looks appealing. Alas, no sooner have I finished my welcome drink than the
heavens open and I retreat to my room. When it rains like this, even the sacred Phu Phasak mountain, on which Wat Phu stands, is shrouded in a thick blanket of cloud. There’s little to do but relax, read and watch the occasional passing boat: one brings tourists back from a trip to Wat Phu; while in another monks smile out from under their robes as they try in vain to stay dry. I eventually amble over to the Lodge for a sundowner, sans sun, and a tasty dinner – homemade country pâté with black pepper, and steamed salmon with cream sauce and vegetables.
After breakfast the following morning there’s a welcome bout of sunshine. I have an appointment with the village elders, a group of men I first met when they opened their modest community lodge to tourists in late 2006. At the time they were a little nervous about what tourism would bring, so I’m keen to hear what they think now. The meeting is held on the floor of the nearby Wat Hua Don Daeng and the men are mostly upbeat.
“People come here because it’s quiet, traditional, and because the people who live here are gentle,” says village chief Mr Th a. “Th ey can swim in the Mekong, lie on the beach, walk around the island – it’s very safe for everyone.” Another elder, Kham Fong, says, “We are happy to have tourists here. They bring money and create jobs.”
Staying in the lodge, which is ideally perched at the very northern tip of the island, or in a village home, is simple and as close to the ‘real’ Laos as you’re likely to get. Guests sleep on mattresses on the floor, under mosquito nets, and bathe in a sarong using water from a large bucket. The food is delicious – oft en fresh fish, vegetables and sticky rice.
The villagers of Don Daeng are undoubtedly laid back, but they are also protective of their traditional culture. They do not welcome drugs or excessive displays of skin. When the river is lower (from October to May) the northern and western ends of the island become sandy beaches several hundred metres wide. And while women are welcome to sunbathe at La Folie, they are asked to cover up their bikinis around the island. “So far most people have been good,” says Kham Fong. “When the women go to the beach they wear a sarong. As long as they do that, we’re happy.”
“We like the way we live,” says Mr Tha, “and we like people to come and experience our life, and our island.”
Andrew Burke is the main author of Lonely Planet’s guide to Laos
DON DAENG ESSENTIALS
Getting There Don Daeng is 35km south of Pakse and can be reached by taxi or local bus to Ban Muang, then a ferry to the island. Community Lodge and Homestays These can be arranged through the Champasak Visitor Information Office in Pakse (tel +856 (0)31 254202; open 8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) or, perhaps more reliably, the kind folks at La Folie can assist by telling the village chief you’re coming. A bed in either costs LAK20,000 (US$2.30), while meals are LAK30,000 each. All proceeds go to the community. If you opt for a homestay (they’re organised on a rotation basis), it’s worth packing a phrasebook, torch and an emergency stash of loo paper.
La Folie Lodge Rooms here are much more comfortable and cost from US$70 to $100 per night, with breakfast. They have air con, overhead fans, spacious bathrooms and, appropriately for the setting, no television.
Tel +856 (0)20 553 2004, www.lafolie-laos.com
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