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FIVE SIDES OF PATTAYA 5
IN PURSUIT OF A VARIED LONG WEEKEND, GREG LOWE SEEKS OUT CULTURAL SITES, CHIC RESTAURANTS AND BARS, AND A HOLISTIC HAVEN IN PATTAYA’S EMERGING, FUN-FORALL-THE-FAMILY SCENE. PICTURES BY DAN WHITE
1 BEACH BBQ BLISS-OUT
If soaking up rays on pristine white sandy beaches flicks your switch, then head to the island of Koh Larn. Ferries take about 30 minutes and leave Pattaya’s Bali Hai Pier every one to two hours on the hour for 20 baht each way.
It’s best to journey straight to Tawaen Beach, the island’s most popular destination. Beachside stalls and restaurants ply for custom, and the smell of the day’s catch of fish, tiger prawns and squid grilling over charcoal barbecues permeates the air. Banana-boat and snorkelling opportunities abound.
Koh Larn is a place to just stretch out and relax far away from the more frenetic Pattaya Beach, but there are a few sights for the curious. Accessing the island’s other bays, such as secluded Nual Beach, is easy due to the numerous motorbike taxis and songtaew taxis that cost around 20 baht per stop.
2 SEEK SOLACE
Each generation has a few visionary thinkers who transform an esoteric philosophy into material form. Thai millionaire Lek Viriyaphant was one, and he didn’t hold back when he started the mammoth Sanctuary of Truth project 27 years ago. Lek died in 2000, but the project is now managed by his children and is expected to take another 20 years to fully complete.
This 105-metre-high edifice, (with a width and length of 100 metres), was constructed from teak, redwood and ironwood in an impressive demonstration of the chang sip mu discipline, the 10 traditional Thai temple-building craft s. The Sanctuary aims to be a spiritual anchor point for visitors by promoting Buddhism, Hinduism, Islam, Confucianism and Christianity.
“I’m very proud to work here,” says Pornthip Jangsumthorn, a carver at the project for 13 years. “I’ve seen my skill grow as the Sanctuary has evolved. It helps keep our traditions alive. There’s nothing like it anywhere else in Thailand.
The end result is decidedly odd, unique and well worth a family visit; the kids will enjoy the elephant riding and dolphin shows, while Thai cultural performances will keep the grown-ups entertained. Entry 500 baht. Opens daily 8am to 5pm. Naklua Road, tel +66 (0)38 367230, www.sanctuaryoft.ruth.com
3 DINE FINE
Mantra Restaurant and Bar offers Pattaya’s most post-modern dining experience with a venue that parallels anything Bangkok has to offer. Sleek polished concrete and glass exteriors contrast with black lacquer and red velveteen interiors.
“Mantra offers a chic, trendy and stylish place to eat,” says Krongtong Namtiwong, the restaurant manager. “We emphasise the informal aspects of fine dining, so people can come here to eat and relax. There’s no need to rush.”
Open interactive kitchens offer up seven cuisines: Chinese, Japanese, Western, Indian, Mediterranean, seafood and charcoal grill. If the extensive choice of a la carte, set meals and dégustation is not enough, customers can make special off-menu requests to the chef – but don’t go home without trying the signature Mantra Quintetto Carpaccio. Diversity filters through to price, too. Diners can pay anything from 800 baht to 10,000-plus per head.
Opens daily 5pm to 1am. Sunday brunch 11am to 3pm. Reservations advised. North Pattaya Beach Road, tel +66 (0)38 429591, www.mantra-pattaya.com
4 RECHARGE YOUR BATTERIES
Serene Sands health resort offers a unique range of meditation, ‘internal arts’ and healing treatments. Just out of town, it’s far enough away from the downtown chaos to offer a quiet and peaceful experience.
Started by three Scottish tai chi enthusiasts, the 16-room resort features a private beach, steam room, swimming pool, as well as Jacuzzis and spa facilities. Reiki, shiatsu, reflexology and abdominal vibration therapy go beyond mere pampering, while Thai massage and beauty treatments are on offer from 350 baht to 1,500 baht.
“We differ from other offerings by going a bit deeper into the imbalances that are below the physical part of the body,” says co-owner and principal healer Jim McCord.
“Our treatments help to rebalance a person straight away, and leave our guests with lots of time to enjoy their holiday and experience some of the beauty and tranquillity of Thailand.”
What really makes Serene Sands stand out is the atmosphere.
There’s a distinctly intimate – but non-intrusive – family feel to the place that simply cannot be found in big brand hotels. Rooms: 1,100 baht to 2,600 baht. Banglamung Road, tel +66 (0)38 705535, www.serenesands.com
5 CHILL OUT
Minus-5 Icebar’s concept is simple, straightforward and satisfying. It is literally the town’s coolest bar and the ultimate antidote to the scorching sun. With walls, seats, bars and glasses fashioned from ice, the atmosphere is distinctly chilled at minus-five degrees. Customers pay 500 baht entry fee, don parkas and gloves, and get stuck into 20 minutes of unlimited vodka shots per sitting.
Bookings are essential and can be made by phone or through the bar’s website. Petchtrakool Road, tel +66 (0)38 489488, www.minus5pattaya.com
PATTAYA: FROM THEN TO NOW
Pattaya takes its name from the Thai for “southwest monsoon wind” and emerged as a resort town for Bangkok residents in the 1960s. Shortly after, it gained fame and notoriety as one of the key R&R destinations for American GIs fighting in the Vietnam War. In recent years the town has upgraded its image; the arrival of luxury hotels and condos are helping to attract increasing numbers of quality tourists.
WHERE TO STAY
Serene Sands Health Resort
Family-friendly 16-room resort that focuses on holistic treatments.
Banglamung Road, tel +66 (0)38 705535, www.serenesands.com
The Amari Orchid Resort & Tower
Sitting at the quieter northern end of Pattaya Bay , this high-end property is set amid 10 acres of gardens.
Pattaya Beach, tel +66 (0)38 418418, www.amari.com/orchid
Sheraton Pattaya Resort
Luxury five-star resort overlooking Pattaya Bay.
Phra Tamnak Road, tel +66 (0)38 259888, www.sheraton.com
Dusit Thani Pattaya
Lavish beachfront resort with the award-winning Devarana Spa.
Beach Road, tel +66 (0)38 425611, www.dusit.com
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