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WOW MACAU
JENNIFER WELKER FINDS OUT WHERE TO WINE, DINE, PLAY AND EXPLORE IN BANGKOK AIRWAYS’ LATEST DESTINATION FROM SEVEN MACANESE MAVENS PORTRAITS BY WARTON LI
FOR CENTURIES MACAU WAS A SLEEPY VILLAGE, A RELAXING getaway. At the dawn of the 21st century, Macau awakened from that slumber and is now well on its way towards becoming Asia’s hottest entertainment destination, doing in five years what Las Vegas did in five decades. The Cotai Strip is being built to mirror the Vegas strip and will soon be home to the world’s largest hotel groups – the Four Seasons, InterContinental, Cosmopolitan, Starwood, Shangri-La, Hilton, as well as Fairmont Raffles Hotel International – and be a permanent Asian base for one of the world’s biggest entertainment acts – Cirque du Soleil.
And yet as Macau welcomes new faces, one thing she will never shake off is her unique character. The Chinese, Portuguese and Macanese soul of Macau is etched into the blue-and-white tiled street signs, cobbled stone paths, East-West architecture and flavours of many local dishes. Macau has not lost its rich history at the expense of new development: meet the Macau of today through the eyes of a gourmand, a circus producer, a casino boss, a heritage restorer, a showman and a set of twin entertainers…
THE CASINO BOSS
WHO: BOB MOON, PRESIDENT & CEO, MGM MIRAGE INTERNATIONAL
BORN: LONG BEACH, USA
after 16 years in Lake Tahoe and another 16 years in Las Vegas, Bob came to Macau two years ago to open the MGM Grand Macau.
“Please don’t do the math,” Bob jokes.
Always kidding around, Bob appeared amazingly relaxed during MGM’s opening period and is sticking around for the ride as Macau continues to grow at remarkable speed.
“Macau is transforming quicker than I thought. Much has been written about the ‘New Macau’ and I really believe the vision has come true. I know many people throughout Asia that were very guarded about going to the Macau of old. Today’s Macau is a destination that boThsingles and couples look to visit for a great weekend getaway.
All the elements are here, and it will only get better.”
While Bob is the first to admit he is tooting his own horn, it’s true that two of the best nightspots in Macau are at his place. As the city’s nightlife evolves, the M Bar and Lion’s Bar are attracting a host of trendy young professionals and visitors from overseas. But the two bars are very different.
“The M Bar is where people go for great music, relaxed atmosphere and ambience. The Lion’s Bar is the place to party. It is hands down the hottest place in town.”
But beyond the fast-paced rhythm of Macau, Bob likes to escape to Macau’s other, more down-to-earThside – the green island of Coloane. “My personal favourite is the ocean paThwalk on the back side of Coloane. It is amazing to think of the work and care that went into developing this path.”
One of these trails – the Morro de Hac Sa Family Trail – starts out with a welcoming view of the SouThChina Sea. Along the way, you may encounter squirrels and butterflies. The trail will lead you to Hac Sa Beach (Black Sandy Beach) – which is worth a visit and perhaps a break inside Fernando’s for Portuguese lunch or dinner.
M BAR
MGM Grand Macau
3.00pm–1.00am, tel +853 8802-2371
THE LION’S BAR
MGM Grand Macau Open 24 hours; live band performs Tue– Sun, 10pm–2.30am, tel +853 8802-2375
FERNANDO’S
Hac Sa Beach, Coloane, tel +853 2888-2264
THE RESTORER
WHO: MARIA JOSÉ DE FREITAS, ARCHITECT
BORN: LISBON, PORTUGAL
When Maria first arrived in Macau 20 years ago, she was called upon to preserve some of Macau’s most important historical sites. Her very first project was helping to restore the Dom Pedro V Theatre which has received UNESCO World Heritage status.
“The theatre was my first big challenge. Struck by the beauty of the building, right from the start my idea was of taking advantage of such a beauty. I realised that it was absolutely indispensable to achieve an end-result that would enable people to understand and interact with the building’s history.”
The theatre first opened in 1860 on the orders of Portuguese King Dom Pedro V. Upon completion, it became the focal point for Portuguese celebrations and ceremonies. It has oft en served as a venue for concerts, operas and film screenings.
“By removing the false ceilings and uncovering some layers of the old structure it was possible to regain the building’s old charm. We have kept the language and the soul of the building as it once was, with modern technology hidden in the background.”
Stepping inside, you can imagine what the theatre was like in its heyday. This was the centre of Portuguese and Macanese culture in the 19Thand early 20Thcenturies. The Crazy Paris Show girls (who now perform at the Grand Lisboa) danced here for seven years. Today, pianists and theatre groups still come to perform in an intimate setting.
Maria recommends that visitors take the time to explore the area in and around the Dom Pedro V theatre – the UNESCO heritage trail, where you will find dozens of ancient temples, churches and other architectural monuments to Macau’s history.
“I think people should take the time to explore the Leal Senado Square and its surroundings. It is a wonderful open area, where the old and the new generations meet. Still being the heart of the city, it is with out hesitation a must-see.”
DOM PEDRO V THEATRE
This grande cultural dame sits up on a hill behind the Leal Senado on Sun Ma Lo
THE GOURMAND
WHO: ANTONIO NEVES COELHO, DIRECTOR DE CULINARY AND OWNER OF ANTONIO RESTAURANT
BORN: FORNOS DE ALGODRES, PORTUGAL
He serves flavourful, traditional Portuguese cuisine with much of the produce purchased from his favourite suppliers at the Red Market.
On his first visit nearly 40 years ago, adventurer and passionate gastronome Antonio Coelho sailed into Macau by ship from Portugal. Angola, Mozambique and Portugal were at war at the time.
“We arrived in Macau on December 12, 1970. It was a 63-day voyage, and on the way we stopped in Angola, Mozambique and Timor – an incredible journey. Fortunately, I did not have to go to war and instead stayed in Macau until 1973.”
Invited back at the request of a restaurant owner in 1997, Antonio finds Macau’s colourful local areas – like the Red Market, which sells fresh fish, fruit, flowers and meats – the most invigorating to explore.
“I like history very much. So I think visitors need to see a little of everything that is Portuguese, Macanese and Chinese. The Macau museum and Monte Fortress are a good start. Then aft er, I would recommend a walk in the area near the old hotel Bela Vista which is now the home of the Portuguese Consul. It’s an area full of history and reminders of the old Macau.”
“Another way to explore Macau’s history and culture is by tasting Chinese, Macanese and Portuguese cuisines, which can all be found in Taipa Village. You’ll find this is a very international area, with Australians, Americans, British and Japanese. That is why I decided to open a restaurant here.”
The entrance to Antonio’s restaurant blends in beautifully with the pastel yellows, blues and greens of the tiny old neighbourhood.
ANTONIO RESTAURANT
Rua dos Negociantes No. 3 (just a few doors down from the Old Taipa Tavern) Taipa Village, tel +853 6686-4200 12pm–3pm (lunch) and 6pm–11pm (dinner)
THE RED MARKET
A red-and-white brick building at the intersection of Avenue do Almirante Lacerda and Avenue de Horta e Costa, it’s best to visit the market early mornings to catch the locals in action. Adjacent to the market is an old yellow tea house – Long Hua – serving dim sum until 2pm
THE CIRCUS PRODUCER
WHO: STEFAN BARNAS, CIRQUE DU SOLEIL’S ASSISTANT HEAD OF AUTOMATION FOR ZAIA
BORN: BROOKLYN, NEW YORK CITY
Stefan is one of Macau’s new arrivals and before he settled down here to develop Cirque du Soleil’s first production, ZAIA, at the Venetian, he took the time to explore the city on foot – which is the best way to learn about its history and culture.
“When I first visited Macau, I wandered around the area near Senado Square and St Paul’s. It is amazing that the streets and buildings are so classically Portuguese with such Chinese influence. Sometimes I had to pinch myself to remember I was in China. Who would have thought you could find great dim sum down a cobblestone alley?”
Stefan lives in Taipa, which is just across the bridge from the Macau peninsula and five minutes from the new Cotai Strip where the Venetian opened last year and where thousands of new hotel rooms are set to open over the coming years. In step with Macau’s development and an influx of new residents to Taipa, restaurants are mushrooming like mad – from traditional Portuguese to modern Italian.
“There are so many amazing restaurants to choose from, depending on your tastes. It is incredible that such a small area can hold so many wonderful flavours. Seeing that I am new to the area, I am discovering new places every week.”
However, Macau’s nightlife has a bit of catching up to do, as Stefan has already discovered after just five months of living here.
“I divide my time between Macau for dancing and Taipa for the pubs. Macau is in the early stages of Western nightlife, so the scene can sometimes become repetitive. I wish I could find a nice, casual lounge club to drink coffee in during the day and sip wine at night.”
By day, Stefan is helping set the stage for Cirque du Soleil’s ZAIA which opens on July 26 at the year-old Venetian Macao. The over-US$150 million show promises to be a world-class production – consistent with the quality of O and KA in Las Vegas – centred on a trip through the universe, weightlessness and everything revolving around an orb.
Stefan and his team control the stage and acrobatic machinery for Cirque du Soleil. Working up in the gods – at approximately 35 metres – he is an important behind-the-scenes technician controlling the show with computer technology.
“In short, we fly people,” Stefan grins.
OLD TAIPA TAVERN
21 Rua de Negociantes Tel +853 2882-5221
OLD TAIPA VILLAGE
Rua da Cunha (“Gwan ya gai” in Cantonese) is home to many restaurants serving Portuguese, Macanese, Chinese and Italian cuisine.
ZAIA BY CIRQUE DU SOLEIL
Showing from July 26, 2008 Tel +853 2882-8818; www.venetianmacaotickets.com or www.cirquedusoleil.com
THE MELODY MAKERS
WHO: JULIO & DINO ACCONCI, SOLER
BORN: MACAU
Twin musicians – Julio and Dino – are symbols of Macau’s special mix of cultures. Their features are a blend of Italian and Burmese, inherited from their parents; their Chinese-Portuguese personalities stem from growing up in Macau. They are boThfluent in seven languages.
“We saw how all the things we had experienced over the years, from the cultures to which we were exposed, to the musical styles that we experimented with . All pointed us towards one direction. We had this vision of travelling around the world, performing in various languages.
“Since the first day we picked up the guitar and started banging on the piano, we felt compelled to express ourselves through music. Not a day has gone by with out us playing, singing or writing.”
Just a few years ago, Julio and Dino realised their dream in Hong Kong as the band Soler. Their music is a blend of rock, soul and folk, and the lyrics are in English, Cantonese and Mandarin. The twins have many wonderful childhood memories of Macau and return oft en to see how their home is changing.
“The one place we recommend visitors to go is Penha Hill, where you’ll find Our Lady of Penha Chapel. The view from there is very pretty and very romantic. It’s also a nice church in which to get married, in case you’re travelling with that someone special.”
Penha Hill enjoys some of the most spectacular views of the city and overlooks the Praia Grande, the inner harbour toward neighbouring Zhuhai and across the Pearl River to Taipa island. Sailors built the chapel in the 17Thcentury, after narrowly escaping the Dutch at sea; since then it has been rebuilt twice and remains well preserved. The old Bela Vista Hotel (now the Portuguese Consul’s home) is not far from here – a very nice residential area to explore if you have the time.
Not surprisingly, the twins’ favourite meals are served at the Burmese restaurants in Macau.
“Any one of the Burmese restaurants in the Three Lamps area [“Sam Jan Dang” in Cantonese] is great. Lots of chilli recommended. The yu tong fun fish soup noodles are a must.”
OUR LADY OF PENHA CHAPEL
It’s a hard slog up to the ivy-clad church; visit on a clear day for the view over Macau and the Pearl River
THE THREE LAMPS
A dense and vibrant network of street vendors beginning at Rotunda de Caros da Maia
SOLER
www.solerworld.com
THE SHOWMAN
WHO: REGGIE MARTIN, SENIOR MANAGER OF SPECIAL EVENTS & SPORTS, VENETIAN MACAO
BORN: CHICAGO, USA
When the Venetian Macao brings major acts like The Police, Beyonce and the Black Eyed Peas on stage, you know Reggie will be with them. In fact, whenever there’s a party in Macau, you can pretty much count on Reggie being there with a glass of cranberry juice – he doesn’t drink alcohol.
“What, are you trying to expose my personal life?” he laughs. “I like to party at different places around Macau. I like the View at the Sands Macau and the Lion’s Bar [at the new MGM Grand Macau] has a great band I enjoy listening too. I also frequent McSorley’s [at the Venetian] because of the Irish pub feel and the great food. You will usually catch me there on Saturday nights.”
Reggie came to Macau five years ago to work with the Westin Resort Macau as club manager, after a number of years on the road with Club Med. He joined the Venetian last year and takes great pride in being a part of the growThof the Cotai Strip.
“I know the Cotai Strip is still being built, but I would even recommend tourists come here now to get a glimpse of the world’s newest entertainment strip. It is amazing to see how all of the different operators (Galaxy, Melco, Macao Studio City and Harrah’s) are so competitive with each other. They’re starting from scratch and taking these projects to higher levels, setting higher standards. Come see this place before it’s finished and take photographs of history in the making.”
Reggie, a meat and potato man, loves his steaks, so it’s no surprise when he told us his favourite restaurant is the Copa Steakhouse just above the casino at the Sands Macao.
“Copa is probably the best-kept secret in Macau. When you order a steak they bring you the whole cow! I love the atmosphere, the energy, and, of course, the cow!”
COPA STEAKHOUSE
Level 3, Sands Macau Open daily except Sundays, 5.30pm-11.00pm Tel +853 8983-8222
VENETIAN MACAO
Tel +853 2882-8888 www.venetianmacao. com
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