MADELEINE ENSOR BOARDS THE ONLY BOAT TOUR ALLOWED TO EXPLORE THE MYSTICAL “FIVE ISLANDS” OFF THE COAST OF KOH SAMUI AND MEETS THEIR PROTECTORS
A SMILING BARE-CHESTED guard dangles a dried white squid in each hand as he poses for our photographer. There is an empty giant turtle shell behind him and six tiny stilt huts line the back of the beach. It’s a surreal scene on the otherwise deserted island of Koh Mae, one of five rocky cliffs 25 minutes west by longboat from Koh Samui. This guard is one of seven who live on the island, employed to protect its precious goods from intruders.
The so-called Five Islands (only four are visible from land) are well known to locals and regular visitors but until recently were out of bounds, giving them almost mythical status. British-born entrepreneur Colin Burgess, owner of Five Islands Restaurant on Samui’s west coast, is the first person to come to an arrangement with the people who guard these outposts and offer longboat tours.
The reason for their long-time seclusion is what’s hiding in the limestone cliffs. A company in Chumphon, on the Thai mainland, sends agile climbers twice yearly to collect – or “harvest” – the birds’ nests that are built atop the cliffs or in the caves. They are sold for a whopping US$4,000-5,000 per kilo in places like Hong Kong and China, where they are considered great delicacies with a list of health benefits – from treating skin conditions to revitalising organs.
When it’s not harvesting season, the nests need to be protected from thieves, and that’s the job for the current inhabitants. Although the cliffsides are sheer and dramatic, seemingly without enough space to pitch a tent – let alone set up home – about 30 men live full-time in precariously balanced huts, made from wood and bamboo. On this unique tour, you can meet them, see their way of life and swim in the clear waters off a private island.
Koh Samui’s less-travelled west coast still possesses vestiges of the island’s pre-tourist-magnet days, with its idyllic deserted coves, jungle-scapes and fishing villages. Five-star resort Baan Taling Ngam and a number of private luxury villas are based here and properties for sale promote their views of the famous Five Islands.
“The Five Islands are part of the landscape on this side of the island,” explains Colin. “Sunsets are brilliant here as the panorama changes every few minutes. Clouds and light illuminate the purple mountains on the mainland and the Five Islands in front. It’s a view that reminds you to take note of everything you’re experiencing.”
To explore the Five Islands, two boats can be chartered at one time, captained by brothers – heads swathed in traditional Thai cloth to keep them from the sun. Both fishermen from the nearby village, the brothers’ English is very limited; if you’re lucky, Colin might accompany you himself.
Because there are no other boats to spoil the steady swell, the water is relatively flat between Samui and the Five Islands, and soon we are upon Koh Thalu, the first of the islands. A little cave about a third of the way up has sunlight shining through a gap behind it and the remnants of a bamboo hut inside.
It’s deserted and eerie-looking, a hideaway from another era.
The tenants have moved to the west side, but even their current dwelling is exposed and basic. A rickety ladder leads to the water where a tiny boat is moored. “Imagine navigating that in the dark,” Colin observes. Chugging past in the longboat, our boatman Khun Lert yells a greeting and two curious faces appear on the ladder, waving in reply and cracking a joke in Thai.
Metres from Thalu, two more wooden huts perch on Koh Din’s sheer rock face, among little sprouts of green poking through the white cliffs and barren branches of windswept trees. A shallow stripe of rock links the two islands, and when the tide is slightly lower, it is possible to walk between the two.
The headquarters of the island-dwellers, though, is Koh Mae Koh, where it is possible to stop and meet the locals. The barking dogs racing towards the boat add to the feeling that you are in uncharted territory.
“This village is so small I don’t think it’s been given a name yet,” laughs Colin.
“How about The Bamboonies?” the photographer suggests – and it does seem appropriate.
From one of the bamboo huts, flat green leaves poke out of the plastic tub in which they have been planted; a bamboo scaffold strung with fishing net is the final resting place of drying squid, two of which will soon be dangled for the benefit of our picture.
The guards offer a shy warm welcome, and despite the natural beauty of the islands, they are the most interesting part of the trip.
It is fascinating to be invited into their world. The islanders explain to the boatman that they are sent regular shipments of food from Samui’s main town Na Thon, which they eat alongside the fresh fish they catch. They rarely see any unexpected boats nearby, and though local legend has it that they store guns and intruders to the islands are shot, it appears to be a peaceful, simple life.
Coffee is offered, instant, brewed with an electric kettle and drunk sitting on a wooden block suspended on the open-sided hut that makes up the communal area. Some huts have battery-operated TVs; metal aerials poke out, incongruous among the bamboo.
Next, it’s over to Koh Malaeng Pong’s long yellow beach, a good spot for a swim and to get up close and personal with a plethora of sea cucumbers, harmless long black squidgy creatures that live on the seabed and feed off plankton. Step carefully if you don’t want to feel one beneath your feet. The tour provides snorkels and masks to explore the deep waters, but schools of tiny fish are oft en seen from the surface.
Malaeng Pong has huts on its eastern side, as well as a panoramic spot at the top. After you have been swimming, be sure to dress and put on your shoes before setting off: if you follow the rocky path far enough, you’ll find yourself inside one of the huts.
They comprise three areas: storage; sleeping (a simple bamboo bed) – the only part to be covered on three sides; and the washing/cooking section with views overlooking Koh Samui.
Residents of a nearby hut quickly come over when the boatman calls. There is a sense of community, albeit a small, all-male one.
They spend a few months on the island, away from family and friends, before going back to their homes in a Samui fishing village. Theirs is a cyclical life and it’s fascinating that it is being lived so close to an island where luxury villas and molecular gastronomy are par for the course.
As the sun begins to set, the boat turns around to head back to a multi-course dinner at The Five Islands Restaurant. Sipping a gin and tonic with the afternoon’s sightseeing spots in the distance, the island’s inhabitants seem very close, but a world away.
USEFUL INFORMATION
• The four-hour tour includes hotel pick-up, boat trip and a Thai meal at the Five Islands Restaurant, with dishes such as hor mog gradong pooh, baked crab meat with herb curry; and gata ron moo gung gai, a hot pan of pork, prawn, chicken and vegetables.
• It costs THB7,500 per person for two (THB2,250 for additional people) for the Deluxe Kantok (Thai tapas) or THB6,000 for the Standard. Children under 12 only pay THB750.
• The tour can accommodate up to eight people and must be booked at least two days in advance. Call Khun Seksan or Khun Noc at The Five Islands Restaurant (tel +66 (0)77 415359, www.thefiveislands.com)
DAY TRIPPING
FOUR OTHER DAY TOURS SURE TO SHOW VISITORS A DIFFERENT SIDE OF SAMUI
1 SEA KAYAK TOUR
Co-owner of Blue Stars, Mark Chung explains: “By kayak, you can glide along peacefully and get up close to the natural beauty of Angthong Marine National Park.” The park boasts a Talay Nai or “Green Lagoon”, an inland lake probably formed when the ceiling of a massive cavern collapsed. Angthong remains so untouched and close to nature that a peaceable four-metre whale shark once followed Chung’s group through the park. THB1,990 per person Tel +66 (0)77 413231, www.bluestars.info
2 SUNSET YACHT TOUR
Private Yacht Ltd owner Gerry Hagler explains: “We are the only company using real sailing yachts and the Sunset Yacht Tour picks our guests up from their beach at around 3pm, then cruises towards the north of Samui with light snacks and a glass of wine. We visit Koh Som Island for the best vista of the descending sun. Guests can take a beach walk or go for a swim. The trip ends as the sun disappears on the horizon.” THB2,500 for a sunset cruise or THB3,000-4,000 per person for a day trip. Tel +66 (0)869 441223, www.private-yacht.com
3 INLAND SAFARI
From playing with elephants to a ride in a 4X4, Mr Ung’s Magical Safari tour encompasses everything that Samui has to offer away from the beach. THB1,500 per person and THB1,000 for kids. Tel +66 (0)77 230114, www.ungsafari.com
4 JUNGLE ADVENTURE
Canopy Adventures founder Michael Mandell introduced this high-flying experience to Samui five years ago – a series of wires strung between tree houses high above the Samui rainforests with harnesses dangling between them. With the help of the trained staff, intrepid visitors can glide between the tree houses as though they’re flying through the air – “something only experienced by wildlife before,” Mandell notes. THB1,700 for three hours, including round-trip transportation from all hotels, guides, equipment and fresh fruit at the end of the ride. Tel +66 (0)77 414150/1, www.canopyadventuresthailand.com
