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THE INN CROWD
MIYAJIMA IS THE MOST SPIRITUAL ISLAND IN JAPAN, AND THE PERFECT PLACE TO STAY OVERNIGHT IN A TRADITIONAL RYOKAN. KATE GRAHAM CHECKS INTO SIX OF THE BEST
TATAMI MAT FLOORS, futon beds, crisp kimono and gourmet kaiseki cuisine – a night in a ryokan (Japanese inn) is a truly unique experience. As the paper doors slide open and shoes are swapped for slippers, guests step back in time, becoming part of a centuries-old Japanese tradition.
Ryokan are scattered all over Japan but Miyajima island is home to some of the country’s finest, each with their own unique selling point (USP). Just 40 minutes from Hiroshima’s bustling city centre, the sacred spot has been worshipped since ancient times and made world famous by the towering red torri gate that appears to float in the Seto Island Sea at high tide.
Thousands flock here each year to enjoy the island’s blend of greenery and historic treasures, but after the day-trippers leave, ryokan guests have the island to themselves. The winding cobbled streets fall silent except for the tread of tame deer that roam freely, making an evening stroll the perfect preparation for a delicious dinner and a night to remember. Rest your head at one of the following ryokan.
IWASO
USP: The kimono-clad staff for whom nothing is too much trouble
Combining luxury, history and romance, Iwaso is arguably the finest ryokan on the island. It was built in 1893 by miya-daiku – traditional craft smen trained in the ancient art of Japanese temple carpentry – and was the first inn to be established on Miyajima. It has since played host to royalty, authors and artists.
Located at the entrance to Momijidani Park, this serene setting guarantees that guests are surrounded by wonderful views. Its 42 bedrooms are spread between the main building (Honkan), the annex (Shinkan) and the separate cottages (Hanare). All offer beautiful rooms, but the three Hanare are exquisite, with sliding doors that reveal the water and swaying maples below.
From 20,000 yen per person with dinner and breakfast. Momijidani, tel +81 (0)82 944-2233, www.iwaso.com
WATANABE INN
USP: Sleeping so close to Daishoin Temple and glimpsing pilgrims walking up the steep street to the sacred complex
Tucked down a narrow alley at the entrance to Daishoin Temple, this ryokan is a wonderful combination of polished wood and stylish design, all set beside a babbling stream. Managed by three generations of ryokan owners, hospitality clearly runs in the blood; guests are welcomed with a smile and shown to one of the three large tatami-mat rooms, complete with private cedarwood baths.
Don’t miss the restaurant’s tiny terrace, a lovely springtime spot for lunch (delicious bowls of steaming noodles and tempura cost about 800 yen and up). It is one of Miyajima’s gems.
From 15,750 yen per person with dinner and breakfast. Takimachi 215-1, tel +81 (0)82 944-0234, www.auberge-watanabe.com
MOMIJISO
USP: This ryokan’s tranquil forest location cannot be beat
If peace and quiet is your idea of heaven, then this is the ideal choice. Built in 1917, this cosy inn is set deep in the beautiful Momijidani Park, completely surrounded by towering trees and wandering deer.
Each of the five rooms has a traditional design, Japanese art and lovely views of the park beyond. On the outside terrace, low tables and brightly coloured cushions keep guests admiring the setting late into the evening, as schools of fish swim lazily in the koi pond below.
After an early morning breakfast, guests are perfectly placed to climb nearby Mount Misen before the day-tripper crowds arrive. This intimate inn makes you feel like you are part of the family.
From 16,000 yen per person with dinner and breakfast. Momijidani Koennai,
tel +81 (0)82 944-0077, www.japaneseguesthouses.com/db/miyajima/momijiso.htm
BENTENNOYADO ITSUKUSHIMA
USP: A ryokan experience with all the creature comforts
This modern ryokan hotel is a successful mix of traditional hospitality and contemporary comfort. Guests enter through a number of red torri gates, swap their shoes for slippers and step into a large lobby with tatami-mat floors.
However, Western touches are everywhere; familiar food is available for breakfast and some rooms have beds rather than futons. Its raised position means impressive views – each sea-facing room overlooks the Seto Inland Sea, while garden-side rooms have views of a maple and cherry tree garden, particularly beautiful in spring. Great scenery can be enjoyed from the Hinoki wood onsen, where guests are encouraged to sip sake and unwind.
From 24,990 yen per person with dinner and breakfast. 634 Miyajima-cho, tel +81 (0)82 739-0515, www.bentennoyado.com
KINSUIKAN
USP: Being as close to the water’s edge as possible
This ryokan’s waterside location means easy access to the island’s iconic torri gate and great views of it from the inn. Facilities include internet access and a library bar, where even non-Japanese speakers can relax and flick through the coffee-table books.
Six types of Japanese-style rooms are available: the two best (called the “Adult Holiday” and “Sea Breeze”) take full advantage of the prime location with large picture windows and an annex on which to enjoy the view.
A minute’s walk from the bustling Omotesando shopping street, guests can engage in retail therapy until early evening, and then take time to relax in the large communal onsen before dinner. From 17,000 per person with dinner and breakfast. 1133 Miyajima-cho, tel +81 (0)82 944-2131, www.kinsuikan.jp
MIYAJIMA GRAND HOTEL ARIMOTO
USP: The privacy of your own onsen (large wooden bath)
Despite its size and opulent luxury, this ryokan hotel has a cosy, intimate feel, with english-speaking staff keen to share their passion and knowledge of the island. Well located between the water and the park, the facilities include a stylish modern restaurant and rotembero (outside onsen).
If your budget allows, do splash out on the finest bedrooms. Alongside the living and dining rooms, sliding glass doors open onto a beautifully tended Japanese garden with its own cedarwood onsen tub.
After a therapeutic soak, your traditional 17-dish kaiseki feast will be served in your room so you can relax and feast in comfort. From 16,800 per person with dinner and breakfast. 364 Miyajima -cho, tel +81 (0)82 944-2411, www.miyajima-arimoto.co.jp
ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS
Ryokan are steeped in culture and tradition. Here’s what you might expect to find.
ONSEN: Hot volcanic water pumped into cedarwood baths
YUKATA: A summer kimono provided for guests to wear to dinner and the onsen
SLIPPERS: Shoes are never worn on tatami mats
KAISEKI: Gourmet multi-dish cuisine made from seasonal local ingredients
ZABUTON: Floor cushions
SHOJI: Sliding paper doors separating the room sections
TATAMI: Reed floor mats
TOKONOMA: Raised alcove decorated with hanging scroll and flower arrangement
FUTON: Quilted bed, spread directly on the floor and prepared
by ryokan staff
ISLAND RETREAT
Top five ways to enjoy spring in Miyajima
1 HANAMI PICNIC Across Japan, revellers celebrate the arrival of the delicate cherry blossom with an outdoor hanami picnic. Follow the locals and bring sake, a bento box and bag the best view you can find. Make sure to include Momiji-Manju, a maple leaf-shaped delicacy filled with beans.
2 TORRI SUNSET Even the crowds quieten down as night falls, the sun disappears behind the towering torri and the harbourside stone lanterns flicker into light. For those willing to get their feet wet, the low tide means the chance to walk over the sand towards the monument.
3 FEED DEER IN MOMIJIDANI PARK The sight of gambolling deer cannot fail to melt the heart. Miyajima local Miyako explains that the animals bring a spiritual quality to the island. “We believe they are messengers from the gods,” she says. “We live in harmony with the animals here and it makes it a more peaceful place.”
4 CLIMB MOUNT MISEN There are two ways to the top of this sacred mountain. The first is the pilgrims’ route, on foot via one of the four well-trodden hiking trails. The second is the ropeway, which is quicker but more expensive at 1,800 yen return. The summit is home to hundreds of wild monkeys and some interesting historic sites.
5 EXPLORE DAISHOIN TEMPLE Founded in the 12th century, this temple complex is a beautiful collection of buildings, gardens and water features. Wander through the shrine surrounded by hundreds of tiny Buddhas and prayer wheels. Springtime visitors might get to witness the fire-walking ritual, which is accompanied by incense and prayers.
GETTING THERE
The JR Sanyo line takes you from Hiroshima to Miyajimagutchi in 25 minutes and costs 400 yen. A short walk across the road will bring you to the ferry which runs the 10-minute journey to the island five times an hour, and costs 170 yen.
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