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REFLECTING THE PAST
CAMBODIA’S ANCIENT HISTORY COMES ALIVE IN SIEM REAP’S NEWEST CULTURAL MUST-SEE, THE ANGKOR NATIONAL MUSEUM. ROBERT TURNBULL TAKES A TOUR
IT’S BEEN A WHILE COMING, but last November finally saw the doors open to the much-anticipated Angkor National Museum (ANM). Anyone travelling along the main road to the Angkor National Park during the past few years could not have failed to notice the huge construction site on one side, from which the impressive new museum’s structure has risen. The exterior is a striking combination of pink sandstone with caramel-coloured corbel-vaulted roofs that characterise Angkor Wat and subsequent temples from the period of Jayavarman VII.
But far more significant is what lies within. At over 20,000sqm, the ANM contains an immense collection of sculptures sourced from across Cambodia. There are still several finishing touches that need to be (and plan to be) added but a visit is a worthwhile addition to any trip to Angkor Wat.
The works on display come mainly from the celebrated Phnom Penh National Museum and the Conservation d’Angkor – a warehouse of sculpture assembled in Siem Reap by the French Ecole d’Extreme Orient back in 1908, which has largely been kept under lock and key until now. Among the exhibits are several large Buddha and stone steles with invaluable inscriptions, making their public exhibition particularly exciting.
A MUSEUM IN THE MAKING
The idea of such a museum in Siem Reap has been in the pipeline for a while now. Back in 2000, Princess Buppa Devi – then Minister of Culture – was considering a Japanese plan to build such an establishment on the road to Angkor, five kilometres from the temples. The proposal was to manage the museum for 10 years before handing it back to the host nation.
As the largest single donor to Cambodia, the Japanese influence is considerable. However, nothing came of the project due to lack of funding and tenuous times following the Asian economic crisis.
A year later, however, a Bangkok-based company called Vilailuck International Holdings Limited showed interest. For 16 years, its parent company Samart Corporation had been a major investor in Cambodia in the telecommunications and air traffic control industries. This time, the project became a reality, although it took three years to construct the Thai-designed building and saw the initial planned investment of US$5 million triple.
The building’s interior was designed by the Bangkok-based company CM, which most notably organised events surrounding His Majesty the King of Thailand’s 60th anniversary celebrations in 2006.
The light and airy space is dominated by a large spiral staircase and four tiled pools of water, while eight atmospherically lit galleries make use of the motifs of Angkorian carving and the traditional Khmer decorative elements, or kbach.
As an added bonus, in an attached building, a collection of shops called the Cultural Mall is set to feature some of Cambodia’s most reputable retailers – a traditional craft s boutique by Artisans d’Angkor, a readers’ haven by Monument Books and a branch of the ever popular Blue Pumpkin cafe.
CREATING A COLLECTION
Although it does not possess its own permanent collection, ANM has found an interesting way to get around this challenge. Curator Chhan Chamrouen, who has previously worked with the World Monument Fund, will rotate artefacts from a series of exhibitions from elsewhere: not only from those in Phnom Penh and the Ecole d’Extreme Orient, but also from provincial Cambodian museums such as those in Battambang and Kompong Cham.
According to the museum’s co-executive director of business development, Sunaree Wongpiyabovorn, every piece is carefully selected and monitored.
“All loans from the museums have to be approved by the Ministry of Fine Arts and Culture, the APSARA Authority which protects the temples, and UNESCO,” she says. “All of these bodies have a profound sense of ownership of Cambodia’s patrimony.”
While many visitors to Angkor Wat are awestruck by its mystical carvings and the wonders of its architecture, the ruins are densely packed with a history and significance that only a trained guide can properly explain. Those who are not able to engage such a guide oft en end up wandering the temples relying on a book or audio tour for some background. The museum hopes to offer these tourists that extra bit of information which can only help to deepen one’s understanding (and appreciation) of these intricate relics.
The vision of the directorate couldn’t be clearer: to educate both visitors and the local population.
“We feel that many people come to these temples not knowing very much about them, so we want to illustrate the development of Buddhism in Cambodia. We also want to educate Cambodian people, about their own history,” explains Sunaree.
Fittingly, ticket prices for Cambodians are only one quarter of the price for foreigners, to encourage locals to visit ANM.
WHAT LIES WITHIN
First-time visitors to the temples who are seeking an easy way to deepen their understanding of the Khmer ruins will certainly appreciate the length that the curators have gone to explain the Angkor civilisation, its beliefs and its significance, through easily digestible visual aids and high-tech, interactive technology.
The main galleries feature Discovery Channel-style videos in seven languages and a sound dome for the reading of ancient Khmer inscriptions, along with large display boards, maps and charts detailing the empires of the Funan and Chenla periods which pre-date Angkor. Children and adults alike will enjoy the introductory movie in the 80-seater theatre, not to mention the simulation of the famed sunrise over Angkor Wat. Together, these exhibits help to give visitors an understanding of the rites and rituals that animated Angkor’s sacred temples and to get an idea of the vitality of the empire in its heyday.
After crossing through what’s called the “Museum Overture”, visitors enter a room that houses representations of Buddha in various sizes, shapes and materials – numbering an impressive 1,000 in total. There are Buddhas in wood, stone, silver and brass, ranging from life-sized statues to figurines small enough to hold in the palm of your hand. Among the definite standouts are the tall wood carvings from the post-Angkorian era.
Moving into Galleries A, B and C, visitors can view fine examples of sandstone sculpture from the pre-Angkorian centres, some of them former capitals, such as Sambor Pre Kuk near Kompong Thom and Phnom Kulen. Both the 7th century Phnom Da Standing Vishnu and the blue-tinted 9th century Standing Shiva from Prasat Trapeang Phong reveal Cambodia’s Hindu and Brahmanist legacy.
Rooms specifically devoted to Angkor Wat and Angkor Th om highlight the role played by the great Khmer Kings who built these temples, notably Jayavarman VII and Suryavarman II who built Angkor Wat between 1116 and 1145.
information
The Angkor National Museum is on Charles Ide Gaulle Boulevard (on the road to the main entrance of Angkor Wat, tel +855 (0)63 966601, www.angkornationalmuseum.com). Open daily from 9am to 8pm. Closed on national holidays. Entry costs US$12 for foreigners, US$3 for Cambodians and half-price for children below 1.2m tall.
LOOKING TO THE FUTURE
So what does the museum aim to achieve in the long-term? Th ose involved hope that it will become an important learning cultural institute, and as such, will hopefully contribute to the growing scholarship and broad debate that characterise Angkorian studies.
The museum accepts the fact that if its strengThis not going to be in the form of a permanent collection, then it must strive to create exhibitions that inform and illuminate.
As Sunaree explains: “We want to tell a story, a truly great story.” Not hard to do when the story in question is about one of the most impressive civilisations in history.
There is also another aspect to the museum’s significance. While it is both a historical showcase and educational tool, the museum is also a place where valuable works of local art and ancient artefacts can be safeguarded. While Angkor’s core group of temples are secure today, it seems like only yesterday that large chunks of bas relief were stolen from the 12th century temple of Banteay Chhma in 1999, not to mention the night-time raids to feed the illegal trade in Cambodian antiquity.
With the country’s heritage under such threat, there is all the more reason to ensure its protection for future generations, so that Angkor’s fascinating history will not be forgotten.
ASIAN MUSE
Top-notch museums on the Bangkok Airways route map
Fukuoka Asian Art Museum: Said to be one of the largest collections of Asian art in the world. Visitors can also watch top artists from the region at work. Closed on Wednesdays.Level 7-8, Riverain Centre Blvd, 3-1 Shimokawabata-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka City, Japan, tel +81 (0)92 263-1100, http://faam.city.fukuoka.jp/eng
National Museum Bangkok: This former palace dates back to 1874 and has the largest collection of Thai art and artefacts in the country. Highlights include The Buddhaisawan Chapel on whose walls are sacred murals depicting Buddha. Closes at 4pm. Na Phrthat Rdm Phra Borommaharachawang Sub-district, Phra Nakorn District, Bangkok, tel +66 (0)2 224-1333, www.thailandmuseum.com
War Remnants Museum: Shows accounts of Vietnam’s two most recent wars – against France and the USA. Includes collections of American weaponry, and a French guillotine. Closed for lunch between 11:45am and 1:30pm. 28 Vo Van Tan Street, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, tel +84 (0)8 829-0325
Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre: One of the first showcases of Laos’ many ethnic groups. This non-profit organisation was recently set up by two young ladies with a passion for preserving the country’s culture and heritage. Closed on Mondays. Ban Khamyong, Luang Prabang, Lao PDR, tel +856 (0)20 677-0777, www.taeclaos.org
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