CONSERVATION IN CHINA IS TURNING OVER A NEW LEAF. VICTOR PAUL BORG FINDS OUT WHY THE MOUNTAINS ARE GETTING GREENER

IN THE MOUNTAINS of western China, the loggers of yesteryear have become conservationists. Once they used to make money from cutting down trees; now their job is to plant them, monitor wildlife and look out for poachers.

“The new role of these forestry farms is to nurture and maintain biodiversity,” explained Gu Xiadong, conservation officer at the Sichuan Forestry Department. “And the government is paying them to do that.”

It is a remarkable turnaround, instigated by the government’s 1998 logging ban, which was followed by green initiatives in a confluence of conservation projects designed to protect habitats in the mountains of Sichuan, Gansu, and Shaanxi provinces.

AWARD-WINNING NATURE RESERVES

Aside from adjoining borders, what gels these regions in conservation is the wild animals, including the giant panda, whose populations are scattered in the mountains of the three provinces. In this habitat conservation project, possibly the world’s largest in scope, the nature reserves are being connected by so-called “vegetation corridors” to create a massive continuous area under protection. It has earned WWF’s Gift to the Earth award, one of the most prestigious international accolades for conservation. And it is well-deserved – the mountain forests, already the richest temperate habitat on earth, are getting larger and more verdant.

“During my travels in the mountains, I meet many people who tell me of former grazing grounds that have reverted to forest,” said Yang Ming, communications officer at WWF’s Sichuan office. “This is partly the result of tree-planting and partly due to natural regeneration. The wet climate is conducive to the restoration of forests and once the impact of human activity ceases, the forests regenerate relatively fast.”

The magnificent ranges of mountains – some over 5,000m high – form the transition zone between the plains and the Tibetan and Qinghai plateaus. The large range in elevation and monsoonal downpours make the habitats dense.

Down in the valleys, the forests can be tropical or subtropical, and higher up is a temperate belt, and further up, the landscape morphs into conifer alpine forests interspersed with mountain meadows and lakes.

The diversity of wildlife is impressive: 29% of 12,000 species of plants are native to the area. Trills of birds pulsate from within (the mountains harbour the world’s largest variety of pheasant), and the mountains are home to takins (shaggy mammals, similar to goats), deer, bears, wild boars, wild cats, leopard cats, golden monkeys, foxes, blue sheep, and of course, giant pandas – a wholly congruous animal in the mystical mist-shrouded forests of its domain, where it survives on a diet of bamboo.

SAVING THE GIANT PANDA

The Conservation and Research Centre for Giant Panda in Sichuan is abuzz with activity and expectation. After many years of frustration, the techniques for breeding pandas have been mastered. Most conceptions now occur during natural copulation, and for reluctant females, artificial insemination has become a routine operation. The survival of cubs has also reached 100%, and the panda population is growing rapidly, reaching 61 in 2006 (of the 73 pandas that were born between 1990 and 2006, 12 of them were born in 2006 alone – the year with the largest number of births).

The primary role of the centre is research (it is also open for tourists to raise funds), and knowledge accrued over more than 20 years has given the management the confidence to attempt to release pandas from captivity to augment the wild population. This is a complex task: training Xiang Xiang, the first panda released in the wild in 2006, took 18 months.

“Xiang Xiang underwent two phases of training,” explained Heng Yi, deputy director of the office administration at the centre. “In the first phase, the panda had to adjust to its natural habitat, learn to fetch food and become independent of humans for any of its needs. In the second phase, it learnt how to communicate with wild pandas so that it could integrate and find a mate. Sadly, Xiang Xiang never found a mate. He was killed by another wild panda, probably while searching for a partner.

“We think it was a fight over territory, and that Xiang Xiang might have intruded into the domain of another male,” said Heng. “However, the release proved that the panda was able to live in the wild on its own, so some results have been achieved and there are new things learnt that will be applied in future re-introductions.”

But how can a panda that was raised in an enclosure be taught to recognise and respect something as subtle as the unmarked territory of a wild male?

“We are now considering different schemes,” explained Heng. “For example, one idea is to release a female panda this time. Maybe a female would integrate better in the wild than a male. Another plan is to re-introduce a group of pandas into a habitat where pandas have become locally extinct. This could be one male and several females, or another formation. Yet another idea is to put a female and a calf into the wild – this will ensure that the calf adjusts to the wild from a young age. We could start working on one of these plans this year.”

Yet, the future success of the re-introductions is still uncertain, and the scientists are aware that the only thing sure to work in the long term is the protection of panda habitats. It is encouraging that the panda population is slowly increasing, and the proliferation of nature reserves is a boost. Thanks to expanding habitats, the future of pandas looks brighter than it has been for many generations.

REUNITING MIN SHAN’S WILDLIFE

At the core of this vast straggle of mountain-chains lie the Min Mountains (Min Shan in Chinese), where wildlife diversity reaches its zenith. The mountains hold 700 pandas – out of a total population of 1,600 – and spread over 64,000sq km. The forests at the heart of Min Shan are dark and enigmatic, bristling with mushrooms, flowers and ubiquitous moss – a spongy layer on the ground, and more swaddling the tree branches in thick outgrowth.

The Min Shan has its bulk in Sichuan, and that is where the conservation drive takes its grandest proportions. The province already has 117 nature reserves, and the plan is to increase that number to 168 – or over 20% of the province’s territory. In the past four years, two new nature reserves – Long Dishui (27,700ha) and Bao Zuo (116,001ha) – have been designated.

Long Dishui is part of one of the vegetation corridors. “One of the corridors we are creating will connect a small community of 30 pandas that are currently endangered due to a lack of genetic exchange and diversity,” Yang explained.

“All species will benefit from the corridors,” said Gu Xiadong of the Sichuan Forestry Department. “The largest corridor will be from Ping Wu to Song Pan, an area that has suffered from human destruction and the construction of a highway through the habitat.

“The 10 villages scattered along the road in this zone used to cut down trees and turn forests into fields, but we are slowly rebuilding the natural forest. We have banned hunting entirely, funded the production of bio-gas [a sustainable methane and carbon dioxide energy source made from agricultural and animal waste] for household stoves so that people don’t have to cut down trees for cooking and heating, and we are helping the local people find alternative income in tourism.”

FOREST FOCUS

The policy to plant trees on fields that have a slope which is greater than 25 degrees is gaining momentum. By September 2006, when the last review was conducted, the reforestation drive had led to an increase in forest cover from 24 to 29% of Sichuan’s territory. that includes 1.16 million ha of formerly agricultural land that has been returned to forest.

Farmers who give up their fields for trees are reimbursed for 10 years, and encouraged to use the funds to find alternative income or business.

Another initiative is the rehabilitation of monoculture forests. These woodlands, created in misguided forestation drives in the past, are full of non-indigenous pines planted at high densities.

The result is forests of exclusive alien pines whose tannin-releasing leaves snuff out any other plants or trees that attempt to take hold. Environmentalists call these landscapes “green deserts”, and they plan to fell the trees and replant mixed indigenous species to re-invigorate the natural diversity.

One of these conversions is being funded by WWF and the CEPF (Critical Ecosystem Partnership Fund) using government workers. The Tu Di Ling Corridor is 8,967ha in size, and is designed to connect two separate clusters of reserves. Earlier this year, 20ha were restored in a trial run.

“The trial seems to have worked,” Yang revealed. “Now the scientists have to assess the results of this test area before work starts on the entire corridor. I’m not sure how long it will take – it’s a large area, but the vice governor of Sichuan told us additional funds would be injected into the project.”

Similar corridors are also being created in Gansu and Shaanxi, and the initial results from Shaanxi are encouraging. At present, there are 16 nature reserves in Shaanxi’s Qinling Mountains – another three new reserves are at the final stages of designation – and five corridors have been created to link them.

One of the corridors replaces a former road which used to cut through pristine territory. When it was due for an upgrade, the government decided to dig a tunnel through the mountain.

that was when Shaanxi Forestry Department and WWF decided to move in. The former road was broken up and a mixture of trees and bamboo planted in its place to provide a potential habit for the giant panda.

PROTECTING THE REGENERATION

“This corridor will be extremely helpful in conserving the giant pandas because the former road used to divide two sub-populations of pandas,” said Jin Nazhao from WWF’s Xi’an office. “In the spring of 2007, we found the corridor bursting with life – 98% of the planted bamboo had survived the cold winter and dry season, and the first visitors were pheasants trying the new bamboo forest, inviting other animals to follow suit. Droppings of the takin were also detected, and hopefully the pandas will be re-introduced soon.”

Gansu, too, is doing much of the same in their Min Mountains that spill over from Sichuan. Seven nature reserves have been established, and one more is at the planning stage. Additionally, 435,000ha of agricultural land have been turned into forest in the past six years. At the same time, in all provinces, the management of nature reserves is being bolstered and developed, and more patrolling is taking place to deter poachers – partly a response to a spike in poaching triggered by the logging ban.

“Poaching is a chronic problem here,” said Jiang Shiwei, vice director of the Wanglang Nature Reserve, one of the most pristine landscapes on earth. “The local people are poor. They poach for takin and black bears, and they intrude into the reserve to collect mushrooms, vegetables and medicinal herbs. The collection of medicinal herbs is the most destructive activity as the demand is increasing. It’s a bigger problem than poaching and tourists who visit the area and buy these herbs are only encouraging the trade. We are trying to tackle the problem by patrolling and monitoring.”

Monitoring remote wilderness is never easy. Locals who are familiar with the terrain can easily slip in and out, and besides, government-allocated budgets are insufficient for intensive patrols. WWF has been pitching in, furnishing wardens wiThequipment and durable outdoor clothing, and training them to patrol.

“In reality, the impact of humans on nature reserves is limited, and much of the mountains are now in nature reserves,” explains Yang of WWF. “The government has positive policies, and the conservation efforts are paying off.”

GETTING THERE

MIN MOUNTAINS
Most tours of the Min Mountains leave from Chengdu. Daily trains from Xi’an to Chengdu cost RMB122. You can purchase tickets at the China International Travel Service (tel +86 (0)28 8760-0227) on the second floor of Xi’an’s Bell Tower Hotel.

Who: Giant Panda Tours
Where: Room 314, 65 Section 2 Renminnan Road, Chengdu, tel +86 (0)28 8665-2084, www.chinagiantpanda.com
What they offer: Tours from one day to longer-term giant panda volunteer projects are available. Prices vary with the season, but a basic one-day tour costs RMB1,100; longer adventures across the mountains cost between RMB15,000 and RMB22,424.
Why it is special: Since 1990, Giant Panda tours have offered visitors a variety of experiences in the Min Mountains. They conduct small group and private tours which allow you to get involved with the conservation of Sichuan’s nature reserves.

Who: The Wanglang Ecotourism Project
Where: Wanglang Nature Reserve, 88 South Street, Pingwu County, Sichuan, tel +86 (0)816 882-5312, www.wanglang.com
What they offer: This project is supported by WWF and works to promote conservation as well as protect the area’s people and ecosystems. The tour involves accommodation on the reserve and the opportunity to explore the Wanglang wilderness. Seven-day tours are priced from RMB6,300.
Why it is special: The reserve was established in 1965, and is home to giant pandas, golden monkeys and takins. The Bai Ma, an ancient people with unique customs, history and culture, also make their residence here.

QINLING MOUNTAINS
Tours to the nature reserves of the Qinling Mountains can be organised from X’ian. Most will provide transport from the city.

Who: Yangling Panda Eco-Technology
Where: Room 519, Changye Building, Yangling, tel +86 (0)29 8703-1715, www.wildgiantpanda.com
What they offer: Tours of various lengths and group sizes are available for exploring Qinling’s Yangling nature reserve. A popular choice is the nine-day wildlife adventure. Prices for the tours start from RMB6,350. Available from March to September.
Why it is special: Shaanxi’s Qinling Mountains are home to 16 nature reserves. Visitors get the chance to hike all around the reserves and see ibises, takins, monkeys and pandas in their natural habitat.

NATURAL ESCAPES AROUND XI’AN

Huashan
One of Taoism’s five sacred peaks, Huashan is a mythical mountain of jagged ridges, gnarled trees and green mountain panoramas. The ascent on foot involves at least a four-hour climb to the North Peak, but for those with limited time, there is also a cable car. It is a two-hour drive from Xi’an.

Dangjiacun
This village was constructed in the 14th century according to the principles of feng shui. It is now a farming community, with 125 preserved courtyard houses, a must-see for their intricate carvings and mixed architecture. Admission costs RMB30. Open daily from 7.30am to 6.30pm.

Yangxian County
Home to China’s only ibis protection and breeding reserve, Yangxian is one of China’s conservation success stories. When protection work began in 1981, there were only seven wild-crested ibises. Today, more than 1,000 birds inhabit the reserve. It is a three-hour drive from Xi’an.

Fengxiang
A two-hour drive from Xi’an, Fengxiang County’s East Lake is a famous source of inspiration for artists of all genres. The 16ha of water are surrounded by willows on one side and lush bamboo forest on the other.

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