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PAI IN THE SKY
OLIVER BENJAMIN HEADS NORTH OF CHIANG MAI TO DISCOVER HOW THIS CHARMING TOURIST TOWN HAS COME OF AGE
SOMETIMES IT SEEMS as if every tourist hotspot in Asia bills itself as a “natural wonderland”, “heaven on earth” or even “secret paradise”. Happily, in some cases, it is not a total exaggeration. The little village of Pai in northern Thailand has worn the “Pairadise” and “Utopai” monikers quite literally on its sleeves for years (visit any T-shirt shop) and few visitors take issue with the appellations. Nestled in a verdant, rice-paddied valley, Pai is blessed with sweeping vistas, cheery locals, and a wealth of natural attractions.
ACCESS TO EDEN
Since paradise has traditionally been difficult to get to, it normally remains the province of the select few. And for a decade or so, Pai was no different – braving the torturously winding four-hour 135km road from Chiang Mai aboard a smoke-belching rattletrap bus was once the only public way to get here. But as the ambitious oft en say: “No pain, no gain”.
Nevertheless, the “pain” has been dulled considerably in recent years. To meet the ever-growing number of tourists travelling to the area, Pai is now easily accessible by comfortable mini-vans or by driving yourself there in a sporty number from one of Chiang 
Mai’s reputable hire-car firms.
Unsurprisingly, Pai’s character has changed somewhat: plush modern resorts are now peppered among the paddy fields, and during high season (October to February), the town bustles with tourists from all over Thailand and the world. The local economy has improved and tourism has provided employment opportunities for those who seek a way out of the toil of farming.
While some old-time residents moan that their paradise is now lost, others claim that there’s plenty of room for everyone and an astonishing surplus of charm remains. Moreover, the higher-end resort developments have taken special pains to integrate into the beauty of the natural surroundings, providing the discerning traveller with excellent one-of-a-kind accommodation, and sparing Pai the fast-growth plight of many other former Shangri-Las.
Though the four-block centre of town features an assortment of fashionably quaint boutiques, bohemian coffeehouses, art galleries and a smattering of European-inspired restaurants, it is still peopled mostly by locals going about their colourful daily business.
And what a unique mix of locals! These include a vibrant and mutually tolerant melange of Shan, Muslim, Northern Thai as well as hill-tribe people, such as the Karen, Lisu, Lahu and Meo.
WHERE TO STAY
Years ago, Pai only hosted rustic bungalows. Today, a slew of high-class digs abound. Here are a few of the town’s finest:
Aroma Resort: Due to open in November, this extension of the Aroma Spa is sure to be a winner. 110 Moo 2, Tambon Mae Hee, tel +66 (0)87 1870791
Belle Villa: Aside from the cute, rustic-themed (but plush) bungalows, the draw here is the view of the gorgeous farmland all around. 113 Moo 6 Huaypoo-WiangNua Road, tel +66 (0)53 698226, www.bellevillaresort.com
Pai River Corner: One of the originals on the scene – featuring traditional architecture and a lovely riverside location. 94 Moo 3, Wiangtai, tel +66 (0)53 699049, www.pairivercorner.com
Pai Vimaan: Among the newest resorts, right in town and featuring attractively appointed rooms with plenty of woodsy furnishings. 73 Moo 3 Tedsabani Road, tel +66 (0)53 699403, www.paivimaan.com
Rim Pai Cottage: One of the first upscale places, Rim Pai
has recently renovated, adding a greater variety of rooms and a spa. 99/1 Moo 3, Wiangtai, tel +66 (0)53 699133, www.rimpaicottage.com
The Quarter: Considered the best in town, this chic resort is close to the centre, and is also one of the few with its own swimming pool. 245 Moo 1 Chaisongkram Road, tel +66 (0)53 699423, www.thequarterhotel.com
ON THE ROAD
Cruising around the outskirts of the Pai valley on a motorcycle or bicycle, the philosophical notion that “the journey is the destination” suddenly becomes as inarguable as algebra – there is no need to stop anywhere, unless it is for a frustrating attempt to capture the acres of gob-stopping scenery on your digital camera.
For those beholden to reaching a destination, however, there’s an endless number to choose from: an assortment of picturesque waterfalls, the bizarre, serpentine ridges of Pai Canyon, and the Tha Pai hot springs – some pools are hot enough to boil eggs.
Those who are seeking for more of an adrenaline rush can choose a 70km two-day whitewater raft ing trip, a trek to visit hill-tribe villages, or a bareback ride on a friendly elephant.
Visitors looking for a different sort of cultural immersion might check out ethnic villages closer to town, such as the Chinese village of Haw Chinese who had fled the Cultural Revolution and now sell some of Thailand’s best tea. Or perhaps sign up for one of the Thai language, cooking, and boxing classes on offer, or study spiritual disciplines like yoga and meditation from the local gurus.
If you’re feeling a little more materialistic and looking to add something special to your wardrobe, check out Chaisongkram Road, home to some of the cutest boutiques in the country. After a day of shopping, treat tired feet at the Aroma Spa and Hotsprings, just outside of town.
Love the nightlife? Got to boogie? You won’t be disappointed. Phu Pai features live acoustic sets from 9pm onwards, after which revellers might head to Ting Tong Bar for cocktails and cool vibes, Be-Bop Cafe for live blues, or one of the assortment of other hotspots around town, each with their own unique character.
Don’t worry about overdoing it – excellent coffee and sumptuous baked goods promise to lure you back to life the following morning. Later in the day, visit the fancy new Fruit Factory for amazing fruit shakes and homemade ice cream or head to Baan Benjarong – seriously considered by the cognoscenti to be one of the best restaurants in the country.
ARMCHAIR UTOPIA
Hammocks hang almost everywhere and this is no accident. Although Pai crams in more stuff to do per square foot than just about anywhere else on earth, most visitors come here to do nothing at all. Hanging out for several hours at coffeehouses is a great way to meet people from all over the world, while shuffling around at the late afternoon market makes for a simple way to mingle with the easygoing locals.
In 1996, Wanphen Sangkamee and her husband Sakont moved here from Bangkok to open Mitthai in Pai, an artistic T-shirt and postcard shop. Burnt out because of their advertising executive jobs, they sought a place where they could explore the freedom to create on their own terms. Though Sakont recognises that Pai has changed in recent years, he admits that you can’t “close the door” on paradise. “We change in our lives as well, so how can we expect Pai to stay the same?” says Wanphen.
Right across the street from Mitthai stands All About Coffee, a popular coffeehouse and art gallery. Inside hangs a quirky painting that depicts a cartoon collage of Pai’s signature elements: illicit romance among travellers, local Muslims peering out of burkhas, and monks begging for alms from coffee-sipping foreigners. Painted by owner Prapakorn Vanijyananda, it’s neither critical nor affectionate, rather a bird’s eye view of Pai in miniature: a mix of enormously dissimilar folks who, despite their evident incongruities, fit together neatly along their edges.
It is not hard to derive utopian inspiration from Pai’s uniquely accommodating beauty. In fact, after a few days of hanging out here, it is easy to get a little “Pai in the Sky” about the place. Don’t worry, overheard snippets of seemingly intoxicated conversation will assure you that you are not alone.
Yet despite all this – its bevy of attractions and the recent surge of attention – Pai remains relatively unknown. Joe Cummings, author of Lonely Planet Thailand and co-creator of the bilingual Pai Post newspaper calls Pai “the most popular unknown destination in Thailand”.
Other than backpackers and wealthy Thais from Bangkok, it is off most travellers’ radars and, lacking a beach or a must-see monument, it’s hard to imagine the town ever falling too far into a tourist trap. It may not remain this way forever, but it is highly likely that this languid little piece of “Pairadise” will continue to go nowhere fast.
GETTING THERE
From Chiang Mai, mini-buses can be arranged at most travel agencies and leave throughout the day from 9am to 4pm. The trip takes three hours. Due to the windy road, a window seat near the front is recommended. Local buses depart from the bus station, but are often full and considerably less comfortable. Private cars can also be rented in Chiang Mai for approximately 1,000 baht a day or 1,500 baht with driver (petrol not included). Contact Budget Car Rental (tel +66 (0)53 202871, www.budget.com) or North Wheels (tel +66 (0)53 740585, www.northwheels.com).
ADDRESS BOOK
All About Coffee, 100 Moo 1, Chaisongkram Road, tel +66 (0)53 699429;
Aroma Spa, 84 Moo 2, Mae Hee, tel +66 (0)87 187-0791, (0)89 557-6079;
Baan Benjarong, 179 Moo 8, Wiangtai, tel +66 (0)53 698010;
Be-Bop Cafe, 188 Moo 8, Wiangtai, tel +66 (0)53 698046;
Fruit Factory, 264 Moo 8, Wiangtai, tel +66 (0)6 122-1765;
Mitthai in Pai, 101/2 Moo 1 Chaisongkram Road, tel +66 (0)86 910-2718;
Pai Post, 102 Moo 1 Chaisongkram Road, tel +66 (0)53 699443, www.paipost.com;
Phu Pai Art Cafe, 22 Moo 4, Rangsiyanon Road, tel +66 (0)84 209-8169;
Thai Adventure Rafting, 80 Moo 1, Rungsiyanon Road, tel +66 (0)81 993-9674, www.thairafting.com;
Thom’s Pai Elephant Camp and Tours, 5/3 Moo 4 Rungsiyanon Road,
tel +66 (0)53 699286
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