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A VIEW TO A THRILL
SURROUNDED BY KRABI’S INCREDIBLE SCENERY, THE URGE TO EXPLORE IS STRONG. DANIEL ALLEN REVEALS FOUR WAYS TO MAKE THE MOST OF THIS PENINSULAR PARADISE
view from the top of the limestone tower on the island’s southern end
PICTURE: DANIEL ALLEN
THE LAIDBACK PENINSULA of Railay in Krabi is a magnet for thrill-seekers and beach-lovers alike: a spectacular jewel-like pendant of sheer jungle-clad limestone cliffs enclosed by powdery white sand, azure water and sun-bleached coconut palms. One of the most dramatic locations in southern Thailand, the area has a well-deserved reputation as a top destination for travellers seeking to blend some beachside downtime with varied high-energy action.
After a strenuous day’s exercise, an expert massage can revive the sorest of muscles before athletic appetites are sated on freshly barbecued seafood and fragrant Thai curries. Low-key parties along the shoreline keep night owls entertained, and those with remaining energy can even dance the night away at Railay’s increasingly popular Full Moon event.
Sharing the shores of the Andaman Sea, Krabi serves as the staging area and transit point for Railay’s beaches. Tourists can reach the eastern beach by longtail boat direct from Krabi, or hop onto a four-wheeled songtheaw (covered pick-up) from Krabi to Ao Nang. From here, the western beach is only a short walk away. Each pristine bay features its own distinct character, ranging from Phra Nang’s upmarket luxury resorts, to the backpacker chill-out zone of Tonsai Bay.
Wherever you stay, surrounded by such incredible scenery, the urge to get up and explore is strong. Luckily, Railay offers the energetic a host of sporting activities that complement the relaxed beachfront vibe. Here are four options, guaranteed to give you a new perspective on the area’s stunning scenery.
1 ON THE ROCKS
For many, Railay is the ultimate climbing destination. Its soaring rock is part of the world’s largest exposed coral reef, stretching from China down to Papua New Guinea, and it attracts hundreds of enthusiasts from across the world annually. Climbers may vary in experience, but all share the same desire to experience the popular sport in this unique setting.
Although the climbing scene suffered a serious setback due to the 2004 tsunami, there was overwhelming support from the international climbing community. Today, the routes and infrastructure are now better than ever. Nearly all steel bolts in the rock face have been replaced by far superior titanium pegs – quite reassuring when you’re hanging on to a rock by your fingertips 200m above the deck.
More than a thousand bolted routes trace the towering limestone faces, and provide stunning jungle and ocean vistas. The French grading system is used to classify routes – everything from 5a runs for the novice, through to punishing inverted 8c pitches. Although the rock quality is superb, climbers new to the scene should be wary of the famed Railay stalactites, which have been known to break off at inopportune moments.
The best known and most reputable outfit for guidance and gear in Railay is King Climbers. Robin King, co-manager of the beachfront climbing shop says, “Climbing in Railay is a must.
It doesn’t matter if you’re old or young, experienced or a total beginner. Just get on the rock and have a go!” King Climbers offer one-on-one instruction and group classes ranging in price from 811 baht (US$25) to 6,489 baht (US$200), which includes insurance. All instructors are certified and highly experienced.
2 SMOOTH OPERATOR
Travelling around Railay’s peninsula in a kayak is a relaxing alternative to climbing, and a great way to explore some of the area’s more exotic geology. Several of the limestone islets off Phra Nang beach are home to numerous caves, tunnels and lagoons, collectively known as hongs (rooms). Eroded into their present form over millions of years, many of the hongs are large enough to beach kayaks and investigate on foot. Nosing into caves through subterranean passages can be thrilling, but be wary of jagged ceilings at head height.
American Paul Murray, an experienced Railay kayaker, offers some advice.
“If you’re looking for a little workout, the open-water crossing that leads to the islands of Koh Poda and Koh Kai (Chicken Island) is perfect,” says Murray. “The white sand beaches, clear water and coral reef around Koh Poda make it an awesome place to hang out for a whole day. Be sure to bring plenty of water, a hat and sunscreen.”
Several operators and bungalow resorts in West Railay rent sturdy sea kayaks; expect to pay around 649 baht (US$20) for a half day, and 1,135 baht (US$35) for a full day with life vests included.
Organised trips are also available from Ao Nang for 1,622 baht (US$50) per day.
These sea treks are led by licensed guides wiThexpert knowledge of the history and geography of the area, and they are happy to provide instruction if necessary. All kayaks are simple one- or two-seater plastic models and well-suited for the placid local waters.
3 WALK THIS WAY
Despite Railay’s compact geography, the peninsula offers a few excellent hiking options. Trekking enthusiasts oft en head to the pristine stretch of jungle atop limestone towers at the southern end of the resort. Th ose who make the steep climb are rewarded with fantastic views over the peninsula (especially at dawn or dusk). If you go for a wander, there is a beautiful lagoon hidden amongst the dense foliage.
For a more expansive trek, hop on a longtail from West Railay Beach and travel to Krabi where you’ll find a great selection of local hotel and tour operators offering scooter rentals for a few dollars. After checking the brakes and gas, drive along Talat Kao-Ban Huai To Road to Phanom Bencha National Park.
Located 20km from Krabi, Phanom Bencha is 50sq km of pristine, lush forest, pierced by a range of flat-topped mountains. Boasting fast-flowing streams, roaring cascades and abundant
wildlife, the magnificent setting is an ideal place to take a break from the glare of the sun and sea. Serious hikers should head to Phanom Bencha Mountain, a 1,400m peak that takes at least three days to climb and offers the most spectacular views.
For more casual backcountry explorers, less strenuous options are available and easily arranged. Krabi’s expert guides are familiar with the high points of Phanom Bencha, and a hike through the park can be tailored to suit any level of fitness and ambition.
For quick, reliable transport to a trailhead in the thick of the forest, a round-trip car and driver can be organised through most local tour operators. For something requiring even less exertion, a short-haul elephant trek will carry you across the meadows, streams and waterfalls of the lower elevations.
Although Krabi’s tour operators are happy to facilitate almost any excursion, many locals and tourists rely on one person for insider knowledge about the park: Patty Pranee Suebsuk of Krabi Tours.
“The waterfalls of Namtok Huai To and Namtok Khlong Haeng are both gorgeous, and many visitors enjoy the caves of Th am Khao Phueng,” she says. “Camping is possible, and tents can be rented for less than 65 baht (US$2) per person per day.”
But, she adds knowingly: “Don’t forget the mosquito repellent.”
4 INTO THE BLUE
The pristine coral reefs that surround the karst islets around Railay are an underwater paradise teeming with aquatic life. Swim through schools of tiger and parrotfish, and watch the reef burst into colour. Lucky snorkellers may even get the chance to get close to a docile three-metre leopard shark basking on the seabed.
The main snorkelling tour operator out of Railay is Koh Phi Phi Tours. Guides are multilingual and certified, and they provide snorkelling gear and life jackets.
Manager Chai Boonmee says, “Our most popular trip is the Five-Island Tour to Hong Island, Rai Island, Pakbia Island, Lading Island and Daeng Island. It’s a fantastic day out, and perfect for singles, families or groups of friends.”
If you prefer something more low-key and private, charter your own longtail and putter out to a deserted snorkelling spot. After some underwater action, drop anchor by a virgin sandbar to dine on succulent prawns and ice-cold Singha beer.
If only life could be this tough every day.
ADDRESS BOOK
Climbing and Kayaking: King Climbers, next to YaYa Resort,
West Railay,
tel +66 (0)75 637125/622581, www.railay.com
Snorkelling: Koh Phi Phi Tours, Pisapon Road,
tel +66 (0)75 620507/622820, www.krabi-trips.com
Tour Operator and Trekking Guides: Krabi Tours and BoonRub Travel, 101 Uttarkit Road, tel +66 (0)75 630120, www.krabitour.com
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