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A DIFFERENT LIGHT
NEW WAYS TO VIEW SUKHOTHAI’S ANCIENT SIGHTS AND TRADITIONS
IN ITS HEYDAY, the 13th-century Sukhothai kingdom certainly made an impressive name for itself. It defeated Khom invaders, gave birth to the Thai alphabet and constructed some of the country’s most beautiful Buddhist relics. Fast forward to today, and the area remains a destination as interesting as it must have been in those ancient times. Modern life and historic sights sit comfortably side by side, and the town retains much of its famous charm, most evident in the people who exemplify Thai hospitality in their warmth, helpfulness and easy smiles.
Vanli Prasarttong-Osoth, managing director of Samui Palm Beach Resort and factory manager of Prasarttong-Osoth Co Ltd, is a fan of the province and visits at least twice a month. She has spearheaded several projects, including overseeing the cultivation of organic rice fields on the grounds around the town’s airport.
“Sukhothai is a great place to see the origins of Thai culture. And the people here are so genuinely nice,” she enthuses.
Obviously, other visitors agree. Michel and Tan Herman of the Lotus Village hotel in Sukhothai have seen guest numbers quadruple since they opened in 1996.
“More than 40% of our guests have been to Thailand before. They’re well-seasoned travellers who are looking for something off the beaten track,” says Tan, a Sukhothai local. “And they are staying longer – not just overnight but two or three days.”
The demands of this increasingly well-travelled, upmarket guest have given rise to a number of interesting activities based around the traditions of Sukhothai’s history. Here are a few new ways you can look at the city’s old sights and historic past.
BURIED TREASURE
Old World relics are a major feature of the local terrain, and on top of the impressive temples in Sukhothai, Si Satchanalai and Kamphaeng Phet Historical Parks, there are porous red sandstone remains of a lost world scattered all across the province. Even more exciting is that new archaeological sites are still being discovered.
One such site is in Meung Bang Klang, a little-known village on the way to Si Satchanalai in which the early Sukhothai armies defeated the Khmer forces. A small ancient monument exists here already, but monks living nearby have been stumbling across stone Buddha artefacts all over the surrounding areas.
Authorities have started to investigate a raised plot of land 50m away from the original ruins on which a relatively recent temple now stands. They suspect that underneath the new structure are the remnants of a shrine circa the 13th century.
Take a trip here to see little boy lamas building toy forts with sandstone bricks from a past civilisation or find your own piece of history – just be sure to leave your finds where they belong and handle with care. Any depiction of Buddha is considered sacred, and the monks tell stories of the ills that have befallen people who disrespect the holy plot.
If you prefer to play it safe, there are plenty of stunning (already discovered) ruins within the old city walls of Sukhothai Historical Park. For a different view of these majestic structures, go after darkness falls. On Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights from 7pm to 9pm, the temples are lit up and there is virtually no one around, leaving you to explore the hauntingly beautiful grounds on your own. Bring your camera, a map and a watch for keeping your eye on the time – the park is pitch black once the lights go out.
For an extra special sight, Khun Vanli recommends planning a visit between 21-25 November to experience Loi Krathong, Thailand’s annual Festival of Lights. Krathong are mini candle-lit raft s traditionally made from a section of banana tree trunk, which are released in their hundreds onto lakes and rivers during this celebration. “The floating lanterns are beautiful, and during a full moon, it’s just so romantic,” she says.
Information - LOI KRATHONG
The origins of this festival are a little hazy: some say it’s an adaptation of the Hindu Festival of Lights, Divali, and others say it honours Buddha. Whatever is true, Loi Krathong is celebrated throughout the Kingdom as one of its oldest and most beautiful traditions. The lighting of the floating krathong is done with reverence, but the night often ends with grand fireworks and festivities. Sukhothai is considered the birthplace of the ritual, and fittingly, the festival is a bigger affair here, including a spectacular light and sound show against the temple setting. www.thailandgrandfestival.com
GOOD HARVEST
Look out of the window as the aeroplane descends into Sukhothai Airport, and you will immediately notice the expanse of bright green paddy fields lining the runway. These are just part of the Sukhothai Organic Farming Project that surrounds the airport for over 100 acres and offers visitors a unique opportunity to take a closer look at the province’s cultivations. Head over to the plantations for an interesting tour of rice, fruit, vegetables and even orchids, all grown without any pesticides and ploughed by more than 100 water buffalo.
The project here aims to encourage organic farming among locals and preserve traditional farming methods at the same time. To earn its organic certification, the farm uses only natural fertilisers like buffalo manure or crushed green beans, and must rely on rainwater alone to nourish the fields. Replacing harmful chemicals are herbal blends that contain natural ingredients like the Nim seed, which deters pests such as snails and insects.
Khun Vanli explains how this work is vital, in terms of both the land and the people: “If we use organic fertiliser, we can preserve the land for years. All those chemicals are not good for the farmers too, and can damage the health of the people on the farm if not used carefully,” she says.
Information - SUKHOTHAI ORGANIC FARMING PROJECT
The rice farmed here is served onboard Bangkok Airways’ flights and sold by the kilogramme (a steal at 80 baht) at the Sukhothai Organic Farming Project.
Best of all, the project plans to offer visitors their own personal rice-planting experience – so city slickers can don a pair of rubber boots, go out into the fields and learn how to sow seeds or replant saplings. A must-try encounter for all, as well as a great learning experience for kids.
Farm visits can be arranged by contacting sukhothaitraveltravelservice@yahoo.com or calling Ong at +66 (0)8 1804-0780. Tours in English or Thai are free but must be booked in advance and are subject to availability. The “try your hand at farming” programme is due to be launched in 2008.
TRADITIONS TO TRY
Alongside learning about rice cultivation, there are many more opportunities to try your hand at other quintessential local traditions. Sukhothai Airport offers free daily demonstrations of age-old arts and craft s from 8am to 5pm. Under the guidance of a patient potter, learn to make traditional ceramics from mud-based clay.
Once you’ve created your earthenware, it will be fired in the kiln and ready for collection in two days – simply stop by and pick it up before you check 
in for your flight back home.
Also at the airport are traditional cotton looms where skilled weavers demonstrate how to weave intricate patterns into the cloth using natural and dyed cotton from the vicinity. The resulting material bears a resemblance to Laotian fabric, a legacy from the Lao immigrants who settled in Sukhothai centuries ago.
Visitors can also learn to reel a spool of cotton thread – a task that needs a steady hand and is much harder than it sounds!
For those looking for a local experience that requires a bit less effort, nothing is more Thai than a tasty meal followed by a relaxing massage or vice versa. Good food is abundant in Sukhothai, but two not-to-miss eateries are Coffee Home and Restaurant, and Kru Iew. The former offers an unbeatable romantic garden setting, where the easy-listening jazz music is just like the venue – bright and breezy. While you enjoy dishes like Deep Fried Sliced Banana Flower and the delectable Grilled Eggplant Yom (a cold salad served with prawns, hard-boiled egg and basil), look forward to a visit from the owner’s cat and dog, Garfield and Dollar 
(not baht!).
Kru Iew may not be able to compete in terms of atmosphere, but the food is both authentic and delicious. The mostly local clientele swear by the omelette-encased pad thai noodles and naim nueng (wrap-it-yourself rice paper rolls with pork).
Visitors must try the Sukhothai noodles, a flavourful rice noodle dish served with sliced pork and a tasty sauce. Servings are small, but prices are half that of any touristy restaurant.
And to rub away the aches and pains of all that temple-trekking, head to Baan Spa at Lotus Village. Housed in a traditional Thai home and raised on stilts above a leafy pond, the spa’s tasteful decoration and air-conditioning make it a lavish alternative to the numerous basic massage parlours around town.
Another bonus is that the menu is more varied, with facials, manicures and waxing on offer. The aromatic massage oils are all blended in-house, and the herbal steam bath – like a sauna, only with aromatic local herbs – works wonders on overworked muscles. It is the perfect end to any stay in Sukhothai.
LATEST OFFERING
The brand-new Sukhothai Heritage Resort is set to be the most luxurious accommodation in town when it opens its 68 stylish rooms at the end of this year. Nestled among verdant green landscapes, only minutes from the airport and halfway between the historic sites of Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai, the boutique resort 
will boast two sprawling swimming pools placed perfectly for a view of the sunset over neighbouring paddy fields.
Rooms will feature all the latest mod cons, including satellite TV, free wireless internet and DVD players, to make it one of the most well-equipped properties in town. Fittingly, this special resort will be run by The Unique Collection who manages several other unique Thai hotels, including Kamalaya, Koh Samui.
Find out more at www.sukhothaiheritage.com
ADDRESS BOOK
Baan Spa at Lotus Village Hotel, 170 Ratchathanee Street, tel +66 (0)55 621484, www.lotus-village.com; Coffee Home and Restaurant, 29 Rajutid Road (near next to Lotus Village); Kru lew, Soi Mahasaranon 1,
tel +66 (0)55 612710
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