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SUITS YOU, SIR!
SHOPPER-ON-TRAINING-WHEELS MIKEY LEUNGTAILORS A VISIT TO SHENZHEN IN PURSUIT OF SOME CUSTOM-MADE CLOTHING
TO ME, custom-made tailored clothing sounds like a total luxury. Not an avid shopper at the best of times – think Queer Eye for the Straight Guy – I must take my makeover chances when I get them.
So it was with a sense of open-mindedness that I joined legions of other bargain hunters venturing into the wealthy Chinese border city of Shenzhen, a modern metropolis sandwiched between the two divergent economic realities of Hong Kong and mainland China. My mission: search for some sharp tailoring to smarten up my wardrobe. In Shenzhen, the fruit of China’s cheap labour hangs low to the voracious consumers of Hong Kong, so deals here are some of the most accessible in the entire country.
LOOKOUT LUOHU
Hong Kong-based bargain hunters such as Doris Lo love to boast about the savings they dig up at Luohu Commercial City. It is a giant glass temple of great deals that towers over the east square of Shenzhen Luohu train station – and conspicuous, as one of the last buildings you see travelling onto Hong Kong via the Luohu border crossing. Lo knows that the shopping transaction is much more than just economics.
“My pals and I enjoy shopping here, as everything is cheaper than Hong Kong. Plus we really get a kick out of bargaining,” explains Lo, adding that RMB350-450 (US$45-55) for a woman’s custom-tailored suit is not unheard of. “When my husband and I bought an excellent ready-made suit for HK$400 (US$50) and pants for HK$100 (US$13), we thought we’d found a great deal.”
Prices can vary widely, depending on your bargaining skills and how wealthy you look when you shop. The old adage “buyer beware” holds true in Luohu.
“When you want to test their bottom price, start with half of their offer price – if they disagree, just walk away,” says Lo. “Then, they will call you back and bargain a little bit. If you still do not agree, you walk away again on their last offer. If they do not call you again, that will be the bottom price. At that point, you can decide whether you are prepared to buy or not. That is the way I do my bargaining, and I am pretty good at it!”
Writer Ellen McNally, a long-time Hong Kong resident and professional shopper, has spent years trawling for treasures while writing her Shop in Shenzhen guidebook.
“You don’t get the quality you’d expect at Hong Kong’s exclusive IFC mall,” McNally explains, “but for what you pay, Shenzhen provides extremely good value. Also, you’ll have a great time shopping as most ‘shopping tourists’ (even Hong Kong shoppers are called that) save time for a massage, a facial, manicure and a dim sum feast… inexpensive treats for the weary shopper.”
On your first visit to Luohu, it is the chaotic nature of the place that stands out and calls for attention. Behind the glass edifice is a frenetic shopping bazaar with jewellery shops, handbags, DVDs, ready-made clothing and custom tailors all competing for your attention. To the uninitiated, it’s a sensory assault where it can be easy to lose your bearings, so it is vital to do your homework.
GETTING IT RIGHT
Topping McNally’s list of tailors is the soft-spoken John Chi – whose tailoring speaks more loudly than he does.
“Over 90% of my customers are foreign,” he explains, holding out a well-craft ed and very long suit, obviously not made for an Asian frame. When picking a tailor, it is important to find someone who works with you and understands your needs. Unlike many, Chi speaks fluent English.
Chances are, you might not even need to visit the tailor for some quality threads. If you don’t have the time to get anything made-to-order, there are many ready-made brand-name suits available at Luohu. The difference in quality varies widely, but with some determined digging, some shoppers end up with a great ready-made garment at an unbelievably low price.
All types of clothes and accessories abound: Dolce and Gabbana, Ralph Lauren and Paul SmiThshirts, ties and suits are everywhere, although their authenticity can be questionable. Former fashion designer Leslie Chia of Pimab’s Bespoke Menswear, Singapore, says even fashion industry professionals find it hard to differentiate the real stuff from the knock-offs.
“It’s not easy spotting a fake – even the experts can’t always tell. One thing to look out for is the designers’ house style. Armani suits tend to have rounded, sloping shoulders, while Hugo Boss tailoring is very structured and boxy. Dior suits will be super skinny, very modish and rock star. If a suit says it’s from Dior, but is loose and baggy, you might be looking at a fake.”
As I discovered, it also helps if you come prepared with some sense of what you want. The process of buying tailored clothing is quite simple, and if you’re in a hurry, it can be done in a few hours, depending on what you choose. But remember to leave enough time for minor alterations on your customised garment.
Most tailors start off by giving you a thick swatch of materials to choose from or perhaps even take you into Luohu’s fifThfloor fabric market to visit their preferred vendors.
SHORT CUTS
Quick tips to keep in mind when having shirts and suits made:
COLOUR
A good guide to choosing the right colour is hair and skin tone. Those with dark hair and light skin handle bright colours well, but blondes with light skin do better with pastels – anything else will overwhelm. Those with a tan complexion and dark hair should go bold – chilli red and cobalt blue always work well, as does white.
CUT
Convention says shirts should be loose at the waist, but this often leads to lots of bunched up fabric tucked into pants, adding unnecessary bulk to your figure. To shave offa few pounds, have shirts cut slimmer, especially at the waist. The result is a much more defined, flattering silhouette.
PRINT
While large frames pull offbig patterns well, smaller frames should look for more diminutive designs: smaller checks and skinnier stripes work better. You can mix patterns, but must consider scale. Thin stripes on top with wide stripes below, or dimunitive checkers on top with big checks on the bottom. Stripes and checks can be worn together, but must be of the same scale.
“A successful custom-tailored garment depends less on the tailor than on the customer’s correct choice of style, and of fabric to suit the style,” says McNally. “People order styles from photos that might not suit them and then select fabric that is totally wrong. From my experience, this is usually the reason why people are disappointed with the clothes they end up with .”
The more professional input you can get from your chosen tailor, the better. Furthermore, it is always easier to make a copy than to ask your tailor to get too creative with original ideas.
URBAN OUTFITTERS
Not visiting Shenzhen? Get your garments made in these six other Bangkok Airways destinations.
Bangkok: Tom’s Fashion
This is one of Bangkok’s premium garment makers, which offer over 3,000 fabrics from which to choose. Tom gets around too. They make regular trips to Europe, USA and Australia, and can arrange for fittings in your home or office upon request. 19 Soi Preeda Sukhumvit Soi 8, tel +66 (0)2 253-3301, www.tomsfashion.com
Hong Kong: Sam’s Tailor
Sam is a Hong Kong institution and known as the tailor to the stars. He has made suits for dignitaries like Tony Blair and Bill Clinton, as well as celebrities such as John Travolta and Ronan Keating. Burlington Arcade, 94 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui Kowloon, tel +852 2367-9423, www.samstailor.com
Koh Samui: Trend Fashion
These clothiers have over 20 years experience in the business. As well as suits, they are known for their intricate wedding gowns and lovely Thai silk cocktail dresses. 14/68-69 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach Road, tel +66 (0)77 414436, www.trendfashion.co.th
Phuket: Narry.com
Need a tailor who speaks your language? Along with English, Narry’s friendly staffare also conversant in German, Italian, Norwegian, Italian, Swedish and more. Don’t worry if you are only in town for a day – suits can be ready in 12 hours. 92/13 Taweewong Road (next to Baan Thai Beach Hotel), tel +66 (0)81 919-2533, www.narry.com
Singapore: Pimab’s Bespoke Menswear
Pimab’s stresses fashion-forward pieces for men only. Former clothing designer, Leslie Chia is on hand to advise on the best colours, cuts and styles, and his artisan’s touch injects unique detailing. The distinctive wing tip cuffis his signature. 32B Boat Quay, tel +65 6538-6466, www.pimabs.com
Ho Chi Minh: Sy Tan Tailor
No time to shop? Log onto Sy Tan’s website, key in your measurements and expect your suit, shirt or trousers in the mail. Sy Tan does not mass-produce, so quality is assured. 107A Bui Vien Street, tel +84 (0)8 836-9574, www.sytantailor.com
FROM NOVICE TO NATURAL
At the end of my shopping excursion, I’d learnt enough to consider myself graduated beyond the novice state. Enough, indeed, to know what I needed to do next time. Enough, sadly, to realise that I just wasn’t ready to plunge myself into the world of custom tailoring and buy a custom-tailored suit quite yet. McNally’s final bit of advice proved to be most worthy:
“Always bring a favourite garment – one that not only suits you, but that also fits as well,” she says. “Then choose fabric that is of the same stiffness and style – that is usually the key to success.”
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