STEPS IN STONE

GEMMA PRICE HIGHLIGHTS HOW PHNOM PENH’S REMARKABLE BUILDINGS HELP TO TELL CAMBODIA’S UNIQUE STORY

CAMBODIA HAS A REPUTATION for seduction – all who have travelled there have quickly become enamoured with its friendly people, rich history and, of course, the amazing Angkor Wat. The ancient temple complex is the undeniable star of the architectural show, but sadly, this means that many of the more recent structural innovations are often overlooked. Phnom Penh’s streets also house unique structures that tell Cambodia’s fascinating story.

“The architecture of Cambodia is part of modern culture which should be celebrated and admired,” says Dougald O’Reilly, the Director of Heritage Watch – a non-governmental organisation which is fighting against the destruction of the country’s heritage. “Landmarks such as the National Sports Complex represent the nation’s pride of independence while other buildings demonstrate the ingenuity of young Cambodian architects in the 1960s.”

Among the most celebrated of this era is Vann Molyvann, the first Cambodian architect to be trained in Europe, who had been commissioned by Prince Norodom Sihanouk (Cambodia’s former king and head of state) to design over 100 buildings in an urban renewal project. His works feature in the walking, bus and cyclo tours operated by Khmer Architecture Tours (KA Tours).

“Cambodian architects re-interpreted ‘international’ modernism in terms of their own culture and forms, and created a remarkable and historically important style,” explains Geoff Pyle of KA Tours.

What follows is a selection of buildings which highlight its chameleonic character of changing faces and architectural spaces.

1 WAT OUNALOM

Founded in 1443, this tranquil complex along Sothearos Boulevard in the heart of Phnom Penh is home to the Buddhist Patriarch and forms the spiritual hub of Buddhism in Cambodia. Comprising more than 40 structures, the pagoda is a myriad of differing architectural styles, from French-colonial villas to the most recent construction, Hiroshima House. Designed by a Japanese architect as a gift from Japan, the ultra-modern brick and concrete structure stands in stark contrast to the traditional Khmer stupa, gilded statues and stately saffron-clad monks that surround its many walls.

2 PHNOM PENH POST OFFICE

Following its completion in 1895, this imposing colonial building on Street 13 served its intended purpose until the war broke out in 1975, and it was turned into a warehouse for storing a variety of commodities and munitions.

The elegant pastel yellow and white structure suffered much damage during the conflict, but after extensive renovation, it reopened in 2004 with two extra wings.

Surrounded by other colonial buildings in varying states of charming disrepair, the high-ceilinged building is in keeping with its contemporaries in any European city.

3 NATIONAL LIBRARY

Built by the French in 1922, this majestic pillared building on Street 92 sits with in spacious gardens and is filled with elaborate tiling and painted figurines. Used as a stable and piggery to feed Khmer Rouge soldiers between 1975-1979, the beautiful library houses a collection of over 120,000 books and documents, including palm and mulberry leaf manuscripts.

The archive at the back is slightly younger, constructed between 1925-1935, and used to store the city’s remaining blueprints and architectural documents.

4 RAFFLES HOTEL LE ROYAL

Situated next door to the National Library, this upmarket hotel is Phnom Penh’s most luxurious lodging. Its central main building, designed by respected French architect Ernest Hebrard, dates back to 1927 while the rest of the complex was modernised by the hotel group in 1997.

The original wide, sweeping staircase, the high, vaulted ceilings, the blend of Khmer, French-colonial and art deco styles all give this world-class hotel a distinctive and classical appeal.

5 CHAKTOMUK THEATRE

Conceived in 1961 as a conference hall, this fan-shaped building on SisowaThQuay was the design of Vann Molyvann, who employed the use of triangles and zigzags as unifying motifs.

This modernist style, known as “New Khmer Architecture”, fuses French and international trends with indigenous Angkorian motifs and flourished in the 1950s and 1960s, also known as the Sangkum Reastr Niyum period.

When the Preah Suramarit National Theatre, also designed by Vann, was tragically gutted by fire in 1994, all the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts’ performers temporarily moved to this site. The company has since moved back to their original home, the future of which is still uncertain.

6 PSAR THMEI

Despite meaning “new market” in English, this expansive art deco structure is more commonly known as “Central Market” – probably a nod to its location and size.

Measuring 45m in diameter and rising to 26m, the tiered, yellow dome roof and four radial arms have excellent ventilation and offer a cool respite even when the temperatures rise outside.

Arable and meat produce dominated the stalls following its inauguration in 1937, but now, trade is almost exclusively in silver, clothes, fabrics and household commodities.

NATIONAL SPORTS COMPLEX

Another of Vann Molyvann’s masterpieces and boasting a composition that refers to Angkorian temple ensembles, the sports complex was created after Phnom Penh was chosen to host the 1964 Asian Games.

The event never took place, but the stadium, sports field, swimming pool, tennis, volley and basketball courts were duly put to use instead during the 1996 GANEFO (Games of the New Emerging Forces), a counter to the Olympics that was set up by Indonesia in 1962.

The architects decided on an earth and concrete concept, digging around the building outlines to create moats – similar to Angkorian design – which allowed the buildings to be built up and reinforced to prevent any incidence of flooding.

8 INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY OF CAMBODIA (ITC)

The first of its kind of school in Cambodia, the university buildings were built between 1962 and 1964 by a team of Soviet architects, following an agreement with Prince Norodom Sihanouk and President Khrushchev of the former USSR.

The Soviets understood the equatorial climate and designed accordingly; the south-facing walls use sunscreens along the corridors with horizontal concrete louvres, and cross-ventilation ensures air flows through the corridors to act as a buffer to the midday sun. The symbolic “moat” separating the buildings from Russian Boulevard is similar to those traditionally used in Khmer temple entrances, and is now used for sports activities and outdoor laboratory experiments.

Khmer Architecture Tours is a Phnom Penh Inon-profit organisation which offers a number of interesting bus and cyclo tours (from US$5) that focus on visiting buildings by Cambodian architects. For dates and booking, or to download your free walking-map, visit www.ka-tours.org

9 INSTITUTE OF FOREIGN LANGUAGES (IFL)

Originally designed as a teacher training college, the institute’s buildings are divided into three elements – the main building, the library and the lecture rooms – and may be Vann Molyvann’s most complex and interesting work.

The library is circular in shape – possibly representing a secular and rational rather than directional view of knowledge – and, according to its creator, inspired by a straw hat. The external structure of the lecture rooms is expressive and dynamic, inviting association with animals poised to strike – perhaps a humorous reference to the students with in its walls?

10 100 HOUSES PROJECT

In 1965, the Bank of Cambodia commissioned Vann Molyvann to construct 100 low-cost houses for its employees in Toul Kork. The design was based on the traditional Khmer house, but using 20th-century materials to ensure their survival.

For example, while Khmer houses are made of timber and can move or “walk”, these are concrete and permanent. However, they still follow the traditional L-shaped plan: two rooms, with a kitchen and bathroom off a terrace at first floor level, and the ground floor left open on stilts. Although some suffered damage during the civil war, most of the houses remain inhabited – and a great example of Khmer tradition fused with modern technology.