SCHOOL DINNERS

NICK BOULOS PUTS HIS KITCHEN SKILLS TO THE TEST AT SIX OF ASIA’S BEST COOKING SCHOOLS

IT IS UNSURPRISING that the rich flavours and delicious delicacies of Asia’s cuisine leave such a permanent impression. Noodles sizzling away in frying pans and on hot plates, the sweet aroma of fresh herbs gliding through the air and plates of brightly coloured fruit nearby… the sensations are simply unmistakable. From Thai green curries to Cambodian spring rolls, these dishes whet appetites and get stomachs rumbling in anticipation.

While the staple foods of rice and noodles are universally incorporated into meals throughout the East, each country has crafted its own unique blend of tastes and cooking techniques that are a testament to its history and natural resources.

Food also plays a central role in the region’s culture as Martin Amada of the Samui Institute of Thai Culinary Arts reveals.

“In Thailand, people often greet each other with ‘Gin khao reang?’ which translates to ‘Have you eaten yet?’ Anyone who truly wants to discover the soul of Asia should not – cannot – neglect the cuisine,” explains Amada.

with food having the wonderful ability to capture the essence of any given destination, learning the art and craft for yourself is like capturing that moment in time, allowing you to relive it in your own kitchen back home.

Here, we reveal the very best places where you can go to brush up on your culinary skills and learn the secrets behind some of Asia’s mouth-watering dishes.

1 CHIANG MAI

Cookery courses have become a hugely popular activity in Chiang Mai, and for good reason – it is the home of some fantastic fare.

The first of its kind, and arguably the best, is the Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School, located in the heart of the city near Tha Phae Gate. Head chef responsibilities fall to Sompon, a delightful character who steers his students through the process of creating edible masterpieces including chicken in coconut soup, red curry fish and steamed banana cake.

There are five courses to choose from, each teaching a variety of six different dishes designed to ensure that all students learn the basics of Thai cooking techniques.

Also included is a fascinating trip to the small but atmospheric Sompet market where a spread of fresh meat, vegetables, fruit and dried spices are sold.

Unlike their southern counterparts, the people of northern Thailand are not fans of sweet flavours, which is reflected in their cooking. Gaeng hanglay muu, a tangy pork curry with ginger, peanuts and tamarind, is the area’s signature dish, earning the imaginative English nickname of “Chiang Mai curry”.

2 HO CHI MINH CITY

One word immediately springs to mind when thinking about Vietnamese cuisine: phô. The noodle-based soup that is usually eaten for breakfast has become somewhat of an institution.

An early morning walk through the motorbike-frenzied streets of Ho Chi Minh City will reveal hoards of locals hunched over a steaming bowl of tasty phô. The dish is usually prepared with meat but vegetarians can also enjoy it by opting for tofu or mushrooms.

To learn how to make a half-decent serving of the hearty meal as well as Vietnam’s famous cha gio (spring rolls), sign up for a course at the Vietnam Cookery Centre. The three-hour session promises to be as much an education as an experience.

Covering four dishes, the class introduces you to the intricate details of Vietnamese cooking, its Imperial history and how other cuisines (particularly French fare) have influenced their country’s food. The course is also a great opportunity to learn how to use traditional utensils and cutlery. Most notably, professional help is on hand to master the art of chopsticks.

3 LUANG PRABANG

On the surface, food in Laos may seem similar to its neighbours’, but a closer look reveals that it is actually quite individual.

While khao niaw or sticky rice and noodles act as the backbone of most meals, Lao cuisine uses herbs like mint, dill and galangal. The people of Laos love their greens, so large plates of undressed and uncooked vegetables are often brought to the table, served on the side for munching.

When it comes to flavours, sour or bitter is much more popular than sweet. Laotians oft en say: “Van pen lom, khom pen ya,” which means: “Sweet makes you dizzy, but bitter makes you healthy.”

Yannis Amarantinis, executive chef at La Residence Phou Vao hotel, is on hand to divulge the secrets of Laotian cooking. Yannis’ lessons are tailor-made to cater to every whim. Guests are encouraged to decide for themselves which dishes they would like to learn from the restaurant’s a la carte menu including delicious dishes such as Mild Red Curry with Shrimp or Glass Noodle Salad with Tasty Mushrooms.

What’s more, the cooking lesson is conducted in a truly wonderful setting – on the hotel’s breezy outdoor terrace, which also boasts a breathtaking view of the city.

4 KOH SAMUI

The food in Thailand’s exotic souThdiffers wildly from that in the hilly north and its long coastline naturally means that seafood features heavily on most menus.

But it’s not only the ingredients that are so different. Flavours and textures are a world away from each other too. Southern Thais love their food hot and spicy and can claim the impressive feat of consuming more curries than anyone else in the country. Coconut milk is used to give them a distinct creaminess, a texture relatively unknown further north, where they opt for water instead.

Situated near Chaweng beach, the Samui Institute of Thai Culinary Arts (SITCA) is the place to go to release the inner chef with in you. Founded in 1999, SITCA runs two classes per day in true Thai style – laid-back and with a smile. The company caters for all levels of ability from kitchen novices to cordon bleu experts who are looking for a new challenge. In addition, for those who are interested, special vegetarian meals are also taught.

Hardcore enthusiasts can experience food heaven by enrolling in the Training for Professionals programme, which teaches more than 100 Thai recipes, including duck noodle soup, chu chee curry (white fish fillet with coconut milk, basil and fresh kaffir lime leaves cooked in a spicy shrimp paste) and other dishes that you’re unlikely to come across outside of Thailand, over a 12-day period.

In fact, SITCA prides itself on featuring meals that are rarely taught in other cooking schools, meaning you are guaranteed to impress friends and family back home!

5 PHNOM PENH

Cambodian cuisine may not have made such a splash on the world food stage, but don’t make the mistake of overlooking it.

While not a million miles away from Thai food, Cambodian recipes are regarded as more complex than its neighbours’, thanks to the vibrant flavours and the delicate balance between sweet and sour.

Khmer dishes are also milder than other Asian foods – mainly because they were created long before chillies arrived on the scene in the 16Thcentury. Still, meals nowadays come with a side serving of the fiery red tongue-tinglers, which means you can have your food as spicy – or as spice-free – as you like.

Famous snacks to try include num pra pei ney (Khmer rice cakes) and amok, the national dish, a fish curry steamed in a cup of banana leaves. BoThof these and many more are taught at The Cambodia Cooking Class.

“After having tasted Cambodian food, patrons at my restaurant regularly asked me if there was a cooking school around,” recounts Frits Mulder, the founder of The Cambodia Cooking Class. “There wasn’t, so I decided to start one myself.”

The open-air school with views of the gentle Mekong River offers three courses, including a vegetarian option, and encourages traditional methods like using mortar and pestle to grind and prepare herbs. Classes are restricted to 10 students per course, so you’re sure to get lots of individual attention from the chefs.

6 YANGSHUO

The English speaking teachers at the Yangshuo Cooking School (YCS) – an hour out of Guilin – are famous for lifting the lid on simple dishes that can be replicated at home. Five are taught in each four-hour lesson, which includes a visit to the town’s market where everything from fresh greens to livestock are sold. Once groceries are bought, you set to work creating delicacies like beer fish, steamed stuffed vegetables and chicken with cashew nuts.

Beer fish is the highlight for most people. Unique to the Guangxi province, this traditional dish braises local grass fish (so named because they feed on the grass in ponds) in local beer, herbs and spices.

Legend has it that the recipe was created after a chef who was partial to a drink or two while he worked, decided to try throwing beer into the mix instead of water! (Then again, perhaps it was just a happy accident…)

The small team of dedicated, mostly local teachers at YCS, create an unrivalled sense of fun and discovery during each class. Easy-to-follow demonstrations are given before students attempt to master the dish for themselves.

The atmosphere is unbeatable. Classes are held in a restored mud-brick farmhouse in a picturesque rural setting, overlooking a landscape of rice fields, limestone formations and vegetable gardens, just outside the main town. Students retire to cosy surroundings to tuck into their creations before returning to the kitchen where their individual work stations are ready and waiting for the next culinary challenge.

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