ANDREW BURKE EXPLORES THE GREENER WAY TO TRAVEL IN LAOS
THERE ARE NO CONCRETE PATHS, no rubbish bins and no signs. In fact, to those of us who have never been here before, there is nothing even remotely resembling a trail. But as we walk through the deep shade of this untamed forest in southern Laos, splashing through streams and climbing over huge fallen trees, our local guide Boualy seems right at home.
He points to a giant nyang tree with a blackened hole in its trunk. To me it looks like, well, a big tree. But as Boualy explains, it is important as a source of sap for the local Brau people, which they use to seal their wooden boats, make baskets watertight and burn in oil lamps. It’s one of many such commentaries that make this trek through the 240,000ha Xe Pian National Protected Area (NPA) more than just a hot walk in the jungle. It’s a chance to experience the inclusive mix of ecology and culture that has made Laos one of the most attractive ecotourism destinations in Asia.
“Ecotourism” is one of the most over-used – and misused – terms in modern travel. A more serious awareness of green issues through high profile films like Al Gore’s An Inconvenient Truth, ongoing debate over the Kyoto Protocol, Live earth , and a wider acceptance that global warming isn’t just something dreamt up by hippies, has made everyone examine what they can do to help turn the tide. Not surprisingly, a demand for green travel has seen an explosion in the supply of so-called “eco-friendly” hotels and tour operators, but only a fraction of these have real green credentials.
THE REAL DEAL
Our destination is Ta Ong, a village of about 300 ethnic Brau and the last human settlement before the Cambodian border, 80km away to the south. In between is a vast blanket of untouched forest that forms one of South-East Asia’s most intact ecosystems, with key concentrations of endangered species such as yellow-cheeked gibbon, ox-like gaur and giant ibis, fauna that has been wiped out in much of the region.
After four hours of trekking, Boualy leads us into Ta Ong village. The villagers greet us with a sort of shy excitement before leading us to the newly built community guesthouse.
This two-room wooden building is no Hilton, but the foam mattresses lined up on the floor under carefully rigged mosquito nets are comfortable enough. The only concession to “luxury” is an eco-friendly light bulb connected to the roof’s solar panel. The toilets are simple and the local “shower” consists of a water pump, a large bucket and a sarong. However, we didn’t come to Ta Ong for luxury. We came to experience what is the “real Laos” for about 80% of the population.
After a simple dinner of fish soup, vegetables and rice in the chief’s house, the villagers began to loosen up and our taste of this real Laos became that much richer. A man playing the kaen, a traditional Lao instrument that looks like an over-sized panpipe and sounds similar to a piano accordion, started the fun, and before long, the room was full of people dancing the lam vong (traditional circle dance) together. A half-hour and much hasty organisation later, we are downstairs in the midst of a full-blown concert.
Five old men have taken up position behind five brass gongs.
It has been, we’re told, a long time since the men have played, a statement apparently confirmed when one looks around for something to beat his gong with before finally resorting to his flip flop. In front of them, a pot of lao hai (rice wine) has appeared, and following much discussion, two men and two women sing and act their way through a traditional performance. They ad lib the words into a thanks to us, the trekkers, for bringing money into the community that is helping to change their lives.
Dozens of children sit glued to the performance like Western kids watching the latest Hollywood blockbuster. It is a moving experience, and even the most cynical can feel the spontaneity of the show – that the villagers are genuinely enjoying themselves, not just acting out a contrived show for us, makes all the difference. This is the real deal.
ON THE RIGHT TRACK
By 5am the next morning, we are walking again – but this time, village guides take two groups along sandy trails that, in the cool morning air, feel positively lavish after yesterday’s bush-bashing.
The forest is waking and everyone hopes to see the rare Asiatic hornbill, and maybe catch sight of, or hear, gibbons calling out as they swing through the canopy. However, we are reminded that this is a forest where animals are still scared of humans. We are not on the well-worn plains of Africa, so anything we see will be a bonus.
As it turns out, we do catch a glimpse of a pair of hornbills. But it is the other group that gets really lucky. They hear the male and female at the head of a troop of gibbons singing out their location to, in effect, mark their territory. It is, I’m told, a spine-tingling experience, even if the gibbons were not near enough to see.
As we trekked out of Xe Pian NPA later that day, stopping to gaze across the vast swathe of wilderness from a rocky hilltop, I cannot help thinking that if my hike is helping to protect the forest by putting money into the pockets of the villagers who live with in it, then it is a thoroughly worthwhile trip. There are no losers, only winners here.
COMMUNITY-BASED ECOTOURISM
The trek to Ta Ong follows a formula that has proven remarkably successful across the country since its beginning with the Nam Ha project in the northern province of Luang Nam Tha. From here, the Lao government and several international non-government organisations (NGOs) have worked together to develop a type of tourism that is boThfun and affordable, while at the same time empowering local communities like the village at Ta Ong. This gives them an economic incentive to protect the environments that they live in.
Paul Eshoo, who has worked in several projects during his seven years in Laos and is currently employed by the World Wildlife Fund to work with the communities in the Xe Pian NPA, says ecotourism in Laos is different from what we see in the West.
“In the West, ecotourism is about minimising the impact on a particular protected area. And that’s fine,” he says. “Here, we want to minimise negative impact as well, but we also have positive impact – we’re changing people’s lives.”
The money coming into Ta Ong village has already started to make a difference, but to see the real potential of this sort of community-based ecotourism, you need look no further than the Nam Ha project. The first – and subsequently, most mature – project of this kind in Laos has grown to the point that six villages and over 100 families benefit from the money spent by travellers paying to trek in the Nam Ha NPA. The sums are not huge, but in a country where many rural communities still live in a barter economy, every dollar counts.
Steven Schipani, who headed up the Nam Ha project when it first began and now works as an advisor to the Lao National Tourism Administration on community-based tourism, says that while ecotourism is still in its early stages, its steady growThand broad-based support augur well for Laos’ future.
“We survey thousands of tourists every year and 80% say they are coming to see the nature and culture,” he said. “with community-based ecotourism written into boThthe national tourism strategy and the poverty alleviation strategy, it looks like it’s here to stay.”
WHERE TO TREK
Marked on the map are several areas where organised trekking is possible in Laos, and almost all involve basic home-stays in remote villages. Most community-based trekking in Laos can be organised through the relevant provincial tourism offices, which have English-speaking guides and the lowest prices, or through a private tour operator. Either way, the actual guides are local villagers whose explanations are translated by the English-speaking guide. Visit www.ecotourismlaos.com
1 PHONGSALI: These treks from Phongsali village in the far north of Laos get well off the beaten track and into some of the most remote ethnic villages in the country.
2 NAM HA NPA: More than 10 different treks take in, among much else, hilltop villages and stunning scenery. Treks begin in Luang Nam Tha, home to The Boat Landing and also Muang Sing, near the Chinese border.
3 PHU KHAO KHUAY NPA: These two- and three-day treks traverse the flat river plain and can include some impressive waterfalls. The most popular trek includes a low-comfort stay in an elephant tower and a rare chance to see wild Asian elephants. www.trekkingcentrallaos.com
4 PHU HIN BUN NPA: The monolithic limestone karsts that make up Phu Hin Bun are breathtaking in their beauty, and these two- to four-day trips that combine walking and boating are a good way to visit. Most trips start in Tha Khaek and some include a trip through the wondrous 7km-long Kong Lo cave.
5 DONG NATAD PPA: Starting from Savannakhet, these one- and two-day trips are cheap, easy and popular for their home-stays and chance to see how villagers use the sacred forest.
6 DONG PHU VIENG NPA: There is a lot of driving before and after the walking on this three-day trek, which takes you to two Katang villages where animist beliefs come with a host of taboos. The relatively pricey trips start in Savannakhet.
7 PHU XIENG THONG NPA: Starting in Pakse, these twoand three-day walking and boating trips take in the Mekong, the flat-topped Phu Xieng Thong mountain and, probably, a visit to a hermit nun who has lived alone in a cave – with out speaking – for more than five years.
8 XE PIAN NPA: Xe Pian (main story) is probably best visited from Kingfisher Ecolodge, where elephant rides and even mahout training can be organised.
GREEN ROOMS
For ecotourism in Laos, it is all about the experience and not the comforts. However, for a touch of luxury with a clear conscience, check out these top eco-friendly resorts:
1 THE BOAT LANDING
Based on the Nam Ha river in the northern province of Luang Nam Tha, this is the original and, many would argue, still the best ecotourism operation in Laos. The rooms use local natural materials but include luxuries such as modern bathrooms and solar-heated water. In conjunction with well-regarded tour operator Green Discovery, they operate treks and other trips to surrounding ethnic Akha, Khmu and Lahu villages.
Tel +856 (0)86 312398, www.theboatlanding.laopdr.com
2 LAO SPIRIT RESORT
Just 15km out of Luang Prabang, on the Nam Khan river, the eco- and community-friendly tour operator, Tiger Trail, runs the Lao Spirit Resort. The comfortable accommodation is in a French-era building with newer bungalows in a location overlooking the river. Treks can also be organised from here. The same group also runs the new Elephant XL Lodge, where you can ride on and swim with the elephants.
Tel +84 (0)20 557 0221, www.tigertrail-laos.com
3 KINGFISHER ECOLODGE
Overlooking a wetland at the edge of the Xe Pian NPA, about 45 minutes souThof Pakse, Kingfisher combines comfortable bungalows with a restaurant-cum-bar that looks as if it has been lifted straight out of an African game lodge. They organise elephant treks from nearby Kiet Ngong village, as well as treks on foot. This is where Boualy – probably the best guide for the Xe Pian NPA – works.
Tel +856 (0)30 5345016) www.kingfisherecolodge.com
ECO OPERATORS
If you’re looking for a green holiday, these tour companies have solid eco- and community-friendly credentials.
Green Discovery: This company has a well-earned reputation for responsible and well-organised treks, plus mountain biking, kayaking and/or rafting trips. They have offices all over Laos and very good guides. www.greendiscoverylaos.com Lao YouThTravel: Their “eco-group” based in Luang Prabang concentrate on tours in the north. www.laoyouthtravel.com north by northeast Tours: This Thai-based company offers some fascinating, if slightly pricey, trips into regions even more off track than most. They have a good reputation for boThtheir organisation and their focus on benefiting local communities. www.north-by-north-east.com
PICTURES: ANDREW BURKE (UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED), ANDREW BURKE AND GREEN DISCOVERY
