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BIG CITY LITTLE HEARTS
MIKEY LEUNG GETS A TASTE OF SHENZHEN’S DELICIOUS DIM SUM SCENE
Pork buns DIM SUM, which literally translates into “little hearts”, is a traditional Chinese meal of tapas-like servings which usually include dumplings. But to me, a Canadian-born Chinese, the dim sum experience is more than just a meal. The brunch or lunchtime delicacy conjures emotions surrounding my concept of “home”. You see, the origins of dim sum trace back to Canton (modern-day Guangdong) through Hong Kong – just like my own. Any feast on the tasty delights transports me to a quaint teahouse just outside my grandparents’ small Chinese village, where both the ambience and dim sum were one-of-a-kind.
Turnip cake From its humble beginnings in my ancestral homeland, dim sum is now served on tables across the world. Southern Chinese emigrants, like my parents, led the cuisine’s evolution, exporting their tastes abroad as they moved into new places. Diners all over the world, from London to Sydney and in between, now enjoy dim sum just the way they do in mainland China – in packed, noisy restaurants where the decor is almost always secondary to taste.
However, Shenzhen is an exception. Its flashy citizens are quite pleased to see and be seen. Therefore, decor counts much more than it did in my humble teahouse in Guangdong. Shenzhen’s dim sum eateries are fast catching up to the ones in Hong Kong, the leader in this type of food, and there is an increasing number of notable venues frequented by those in the know.
CITY EATS
Egg tarts “I really like Laurel restaurant,” says Hong Kong-based entrepreneur Antony Chiu, a regular visitor to Shenzhen. “Th ey have many branches, but the outlet by the lake in Portofino is one of my favourites.”
A visit to Laurel in Portofino, set in the heart of the swanky Overseas Chinese Town (OCT), proves that his recommendation is spot on in terms of taste and experience.
Dim sum also goes by another Cantonese name: yum cha, which means “drink tea”. And in the true spirit of yum cha, diners at Laurel enjoy bottomless cups of tea and fragrant dumpling specialities. Whether seated inside or on the breezy patio outside, Laurel offers great food in a stylish setting even if service is not the most consistent.
The menu is extensive and features many tasty signature creations such as the rice porridge dish Congee with Minced Mutton and Spring Onion or Whole Piece Papaya Stewed with Almond Cream for dessert.
Bite-sized shao mai dumplings
are a dim sum staple Dim sum is extremely popular, so be warned: Chinese people, once seated, like to gossip for ages while drinking tea. Th is means that wait times of an hour or more during weekend brunch service should be expected, especially at Laurel Portofino. Reservations are not normally accepted so if you don’t like queues, consider visiting on a weekday instead.
Like most newer dim sum places, Laurel does not use the traditional trolleys still seen in some older Chinese establishments, where plates and steamers full of bite-size morsels are pushed around by shouting servers. Instead, you must order from the menu, so come prepared with some recommendations.
DIM SUM DECODED
Dim sum must-tries include
creamy congee Knowing what to order is easy once you learn the basics. There are three must-know dishes: xia jiao (shrimp dumplings), shao mai (minced pork in a wonton wrapper) and cha shao bao(barbecued pork in a steamed bun), all prerequisites at any meal.
Apart from buns and dumplings, there are a host of other dim sum specialities. Look out for luo bo gao and congee. Luo bo gao is made of mashed turnip that is steamed with bits of pork and then lightly pan fried. It is perhaps my favourite of all of the “little hearts”, and requires a fair bit of skill to get it right. If done carelessly, it becomes too oily and the flavour is ruined. For this reason, it’s a yardstick by which to judge a truly good dim sum restaurant. If they nail the luo bo gao, then chances are the chefs know what they are doing.
Xia jiao Congee, or zhou, is another dim sum regular. Styles vary throughout China, but the Cantonese version is thick, tasty and slow-cooked with ginger and chicken stock. It works well with thinly-sliced fish, but for the genuine experience, try the porridge with pi dan, or preserved duck eggs. For dessert, top it all off with a plate of delicious flaky pastry dan ta (egg custard tarts) and you have an authentic dim sum meal.
MINI GOURMET
Chef Sam Sham
proudly displays a
freshly caught fish Once you know the basics, it’s time to move onto the delicacies of the dim sum world. The adventurous can try feng gua, which is loosely translated as “phoenix claw”, but in reality, is steamed chicken feet prepared in black bean sauce. This exotic dish is all about its texture, and the skill is in making something so odd become so very tasty that you can’t resist it.
For top-notch seafood, Crowne Plaza Hotel’s Executive Chef Sam Sham suggests Five-Spice Tiger Prawn with Sautéed Scallop – his personal favourite at the hotel’s Chinese restaurant, Marco’s.
“The freshest seafood in China comes from areas surrounding Shenzhen, so it’s always a treat to have this dish,” he explains.
Locals love feng zhua, or
steamed chicken feetOver at the Shangri-La’s Shang Palace, be sure to try Master Chef Yau Ka Meng’s delicious Sweetened Black Glutinous Rice with Coconut Soup. The dessert is one example of why the restaurant has earned quite a reputation for its high quality dim sum which are prepared by Hong Kong chefs.
Another two recommendations to try in Shenzhen are Ying Hai Yu Gang and Dao Xiang. The former is known for its seafood that’s caught fresh from the tanks out front and put straight into your carefully made xia jiao dumplings.
Expect similarly fine food in a raucous atmosphere at Dao Xiang, which serves dim sum daily from 6.30am to 4.30pm. Both have Chinese-only menus, so it is best to arrive armed with some knowledge and the names of at least a few items that you want to try
TAKE A SIP
When getting a refill of tea, tap
your fingers lightly on the table
in front of your cup to say thank
you An equally important element as the food in a dim sum experience is the tea or cha – and there are almost as many choices for your cup as for your plate. My personal preference is pu er – a full-bodied black tea that perfectly complements rich dim sum flavours. For gentler flavours, do try xiang pian, the aromatic leaves of the jasmine flower, or ju hua, whole chrysanthemum flowers that can be served sweetened or unsweetened.
It is useful to know that there is some protocol to having tea. Typically, it is the host’s honour to pour for the guests, and one traditionally receives the drink by tapping your fingers on the table beside your cup, as a gesture of thanks. You can pour for yourself, but always serve others first. To request for a refill of hot water (at no charge), simply leave the teapot lid slightly askew and a waiter will come around to fill it up in no time.
Patrons and decor may change, recipes may even be altered, but traditions like these remain, even in a city as modern and westernised as Shenzhen. Growing up in Canada, I never valued the cuisine of my homeland and its associated craft until much later in my life, thanks to that special teahouse near my grandparents’ village. Nowadays, I am embracing traditional Chinese tastes more than ever before, and it is apparent that my Shenzhen contemporaries are also doing the same.
DIM SUM DARLINGS
Dao Xiang Restaurant, Level 5, Block B, Youyicheng, Youyi Road, Luohu District, tel +86 (0)755 8225-2348 or 8229-9040; Laurel Restaurant. Portofino Club House, Overseas Chinese Town (OCT), Xiangshan Street, Nan Shan District, tel +86 (0)755 8232-3668; Marco’s Chinese Restaurant, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 9026 Shennan Road, OCT, tel +86 (0)755 2693-6888; Shang Palace, Shangri-La Shenzhen East Side, Railway Station, 1002 Jianshe Road, Luohu District, tel +86 (0)755 8233-0888; Ying Hai Yu Gang, Level 2, Jinwei Mansion, Jiabin Road, Luohu District, tel +86 (0)755 2558-6300
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