AQUATIC ESCAPES

JEREMY TREDINNICK SUGGESTS FIVE WAYS TO ESCAPE ISLAND FEVER IN THE MALDIVES - ON, IN, UNDER AND OVER THE WATER

WHAT CAN ONE SAY about the crystalz-clear water and magical scenery of the Maldives that hasn’t been written a thousand times before? On a map, this sprawling archipelago - 1,190 coral islands grouped together in 26 atolls - seems lost in the immensity of the Indian Ocean. Yet, for hordes of European and Asian tourists, it’s as well known as Majorca or Koh Samui - an exotic equatorial island getaway that guarantees good times. If you’ve come here to escape the mayhem of modern life, relentless workload and city pollution, you’ve come to the right place to do it in style. Luxury, it seems, is something the Maldives does naturally with a host of top-end resorts - from the Four Seasons Resort at Landaa Giravaaru to the Sixth Senses’ Soneva Fushi - scattered around this beautiful island nation. Among the newest kids in the sand pit are the W Retreat and Spa, Anantara Resort Maldives, Angsana Resort and Spa Velavaru and Naladhu, an “über-luxury” project that only opened the doors to its 19 ocean and beach houses in March. All o? er world-class spas, fine dining restaurants and stunning villas, both beach-based and over the water. But as wonderful as this is, even paradise can pall after a few days of lounging around gazing at the ocean. Most of us need some activity while on holiday, and it’s only natural to look to the water when visiting this sea-faring nation. Here are five aquatic escapes that will provide exciting memories to go with those of the soporific splendour on land.

1 DIVE IN Scuba in the Maldives means atoll-diving. The majority of resorts are based on islands sprinkled like a necklace around the edge of each atoll; on one side are the depths of the Indian Ocean proper, and on the other, the shallower waters of the inner atoll lagoon. The result is a huge variety in underwater experiences, from gentle lagoon dives on colourful reefs to underwater explorations of abandoned wrecks and exhilarating drift dives along the outer walls of the atoll, where visibility can reach 50m. Many of the Maldives’ best dive sites are found in the North Malé and South Malé atolls, within an hour of the capital of Malé. However, each resort has its own collection of great locations within minutes of its island. “One of our best dives within easy reach is Cocoa Th ila,” says Cinzia Mariolini, dive instructor and base leader of the Ocean Paradise dive centre on Naladhu’s neighbouring Bodu Huraa island, which guests use for scuba activities. This is a typical adrenaline-fuelled dive on a thila , or shallow underwater reef that sits smack in the middle of a major channel or pass between the ocean and lagoon. Incoming and outgoing tides bring strong currents, which are a challenge to the diver but filled with nutrients that result in healthy coral growth and plentiful reef fish. Bigger specimens might include grey and white-tip reef sharks, napoleon wrasse, dogtooth tuna, and huge shoals of trevally and snapper. If you hanker after such excitement, these channels o?er it in gallons. For gentler diving, lagoon thilas and island reefs o? er overhangs festooned with soft coral. Here, among the blaze of bright blue, orange and yellow corals and sponges, the usual reef suspects hang around: parrotfish munch on hard coral; hawksbill and green turtles glide serenely over the reef top; and powder-blue surgeonfish dart through the water. The Maldives is also a top spot to see one of the underwater world’s favourite animals: manta rays. These massive but benign behemoths often frequent channels, then head for sandy areas where they hover, whilst tiny cleaner wrasse shoot up from hiding places to pluck minute parasites from their gills and mouths.

2 SURF’S UP

It is not widely known outside hardcore surfer circles, but the Maldives is one of the world’s top surf destinations, with its own homegrown surf clique and an annual world surfing competition. A die-hard Aussie surfer at the Four Seasons Resort on Kuda Huraa explained to me why many come back every year. “There’s really something for everyone,” he said. “You’ve got some nice long right-handers with gentle take-o?s, or you can do some serious tube-riding on hollow waves - and all close to luxury places like this! It’s heaven!” The main surfing destination is North Malé Atoll, which boasts some of the country’s best waves - although South Malé Atoll has half a dozen named waves too. Top breaks have specific names such as “Lohis” - a consistent long left-hander; “Chickens” - a truly fast wave with rides of up to 500m; and “Sultans” - an easy right-hander with an intense wrapping section at the end. Right-handers apply to when the wave is breaking from the left to right and the surfer must turn to the right to get on it (the opposite applies to left -handers). The best waves happen from April to October, with the biggest swells likely to occur between June and September.

3 FISHY TALES

Deep-sea game fishing isn’t for everyone, but there’s no doubting the massive rush of excitement when you hook a huge billfish and battle with it for hours - sometimes literally! Images of yourself as Ernest Hemingway pop into your head, although here in the Maldives, the majority of the fish you catch - should you get lucky to get a bite - are unhooked and returned to their ocean home. These islands are ideally situated for this sport and the Anantara provides a perfect example of what to expect: the customised fishing boat Moon Shadow picks up hopeful anglers from the nearby dock, and within 10 minutes, you’re trawling six 80lb lines from its stern as the vessel runs parallel to the outer reef wall. Our Maldivian boat boy called Muhsin tells me that December to March is the best fishing season, with large marlin - we’re talking hundreds of kilos in weight - most common near the end of that period. More regular catches are local fish like wahoo, mahi-mahi, yellowfin tuna - reaching up to 300kg - and sailfish, which are rather entertaining in their love of jumping clear of the water. Everyone dreams of snagging the daddy of all billfish, the blue marlin, but remember, there are no guarantees; often, you will trawl for hours without nibble. So be prepared, and go fishing with good conversationalists.

4 SKIMMING THE SURFACE

It will come as no surprise that sailing and other water sports are popular in all the Maldives’ resorts - after all, water vastly outstrips land here, and Maldivians are renowned throughout the Indian Ocean as great seafarers. Resort watersport centres are packed to the nines with all sorts of gear: windsurfer rigs hang tidily, waiting for novices, intermediates or advanced wave riders; colourfully painted wakeboards and water skis lean against the walls, and Hobie Cats sit patiently next to rows of kayaks, their sails furled but ready to go at a moment’s notice. A Hobie’s twin hulls’ light weight and incredible manoeuvrability make it one of the simplest of sailboats to learn to use, but for sheer fun and excitement, it’s a heavyweight in sailing terms. Year-round breezes ensure that there is always an opportunity to go skimming across the lagoon. There are also larger sailing vessels based in Malé, and you can arrange for a wooden dhoni (a traditional Maldivian vessel) to take you on day trips or a longer cruise. Perhaps the ideal arrangement is to spend a few days at a luxury island resort, then book a cabin on a charter vessel such as the MSS Barutheela ( www.barutheela-maldives.com ), a replica of an 18th century Spanish Galleon that tours the islands and atolls.

5 UP AND AWAY Finally, if you have no wish to get wet, but still want to experience the magic of the Indian Ocean seascape, take oFF on a scenic flight in a Maldivian Air Taxi seaplane ( www.mataxi.com ). A low-level flight over pristine rings of coral is an inspirational way to end your sojourn. The Canadian Otter aircraft seats up to 18 passengers and can be chartered from any resort for an aerial tour of the surrounding atolls, with a picnic on a desert island all to yourself. Romance, excitement, genuinely awe-inspiring scenery - that’s the Maldives. For once, you can believe the hype.

ISLAND ARRIVALS The Maldives probably boasts the finest selection of luxury resorts of any destination in the world. These include the following quartet of recent openings. Anantara Resort Maldives: Expect a mix of Maldivian and Thai style in the resort’s Beachfront Villas and Over Water Suites. The latter include a glass viewing panel in the bathroom, and exclusive wine cellar for two. Dhigufinolhu, South Malé Atoll, tel +960 (0) 664-4100, www.anantara.com Angsana Resort and Spa Maldives Velavaru: The virtually untouched South Nilandhe Atoll is the ideal new home to the resort’s award-winning Angsana Spa, which emphasises the use of natural ingredients in its treatments. South Nilandhe Atoll (Dhaalu Atoll), tel +960 (0) 676-0028, www.angsana.com Naladhu Maldives: Each of the 19 exclusive private houses feature white-washed timber wall panels, colourful Indian motifs and a “House Master” to cater to a guest’s every whim. Veligandhu Huraa, South Malé Atoll, tel +960 (0) 664-1888 www.naladhu.com W Retreat and Spa: This “luxury playground” boasts three bars and three restaurants plus the only underground club (aptly named 15 Below) in the Maldives. Fesdu Island, North Ari Atoll, tel +960 (0) 666-2222, www.whotels.com

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