DISCOVER HOW EVERYONE HAS A PART TO PLAY IN PROTECTING CAMBODIA’S MAGNIFICENT HERITAGE FOR FUTURE GENERATIONS

AS THE SITE of one of the world’s most ancient civilisations, some parts of Cambodia are preserved to evoke a sense of past that is almost palpable. You can get tantalisingly close to temples, ruins and archaeological burial grounds, a few of which date back to the 6thcentury AD. And there is more to be discovered.

Not only does the country attract international attention from tourists, but it is a destination of recurring fascination for scholars interested in understanding the rise and fall of the state of Angkor, founded on the shores of the great lake of Tonlé Sap in AD 802. Evidence of the most ancient people is only now beginning to come to the forefront as archaeologists work hard to understand the history of the earliest occupation sites.

thanks to work by venerable institutions such as L’Ecole Francaise d’Extreme Orient (French School of the Far East), new evidence is still being unearthed.

UNEARTHING RELICS

Two important prehistoric sites in particular have recently yielded amazing results. One plot has been discovered beneaththe famous waters of the huge man-made lake or baray at Angkor Wat.

During a particularly dry period when the water in the reservoir was low, an observant French archaeologist noticed a slightly raised area on the floor of the lake. Some challenging excavation work later, scientists discerned signs of a Bronze Age settlement – to date, the earliest evidence of human occupation on the Angkor Plain. the ancient mound was probably levelled when the huge reservoir was constructed in the 11thcentury AD.

Sites dating to the Iron Age (c. 500 BC onwards) are also being uncovered, including one recently found beneaththe temple of Prei Khmeng which contained burials of adults and children with associated artefacts. In other sites located closer to the thai border, cemeteries and occupation remains have also been found.

But it is not just archaeologists who are interested in these ancient sites, and sadly, there is a darker side to the discoveries. Demand by collectors and tourists for historical stone and glass beads is being fed by looters – and their methods of unlawful excavation can render entire sites worthless.

Carelessly removing the material, throwing human remains aside, and breaking priceless pots and corroded jewellery have led to the wholesale destruction of many archaeological sites. Once removed from the ground, these items become useless, even to scientists, as the location and depthof the finds are of utmost importance.

AGE-OLD PROBLEM

Sadly, this is nothing new. In early 2000, in Phum Snay, a sleepy village in Northwest Cambodia, locals building a road uncovered hundreds of skeletons. Buried with the remains were riches such as glass, agate and carnelian beads as well as iron and bronze artefacts, which sparked an episode of looting so vigorous that the site was devastated and all priceless evidence destroyed. this trend has only grown across Cambodia as other villagers search for the buried treasure that just might be hidden in their own backyard.

“Virtually every family in the village had taken part in the looting of the ancient cemetery,” says German archaeologist Dr Gerd Albrecht, lamenting the loss of such important information and the scale of Cambodia’s looting epidemic.

Gaping holes dot the landscape along with piles of human bone and broken pottery, discarded as valueless, in the heaps of spoils.

the looters sell their wares to middlemen who then sell them further afield. Crushing poverty is the motivation for the villagers to loot the site, but only greed motivates the buyers.

In the quest to understand the rise of the state, the damage caused by looting is inestimable. the materials found during illicit excavation include bronze and iron spearheads, swords, bangles, bells, earrings, finger- and toe-rings, projectile points, spindle whorls, glass and semi-precious beads, and complete pots.

Some of the dead are reported to have been wearing bronze helmets, and many are buried with heavy weapons and arrow caches. the proliferation of military paraphernalia at a site that is so close to the late Angkorian capital is of great interest to archaeologists because each piece or item found reveals a little more about the motivation for state formation.

FIGHTING THE PROBLEM

the Cambodian Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts has made valiant efforts to discourage looting, but it is a diffi cult task. To assist their work, a non-government organisation (NGO) called Heritage Watch was founded by archaeologist Dr Dougald O’Reilly and several other international experts in the field, who were alarmed by the loss of important ancient sites. It has dedicated itself to protecting and preserving the country’s magnificent history, and has been well received by authorities who recognise its work. Former UNESCO Mission Chief, Ettienne Clement believes the formation of Heritage Watch is an important step towards protecting Cambodia’s heritage for future generations.

the NGO’s Cambodian employees are active in trying to save their country’s heritage by organising grassroots workshops to convince people of the value of preserving the ancient sites beneaththeir feet. A telephone hotline has been set up to field calls from people reporting looting or other destruction, and advertising on radio and TV ensures Heritage Watch’s message is well spread.

“this year, an anonymous caller reported that armed men using metal detectors were scouring the ancient temple site of Preah Khan in a remote part of Preah Vihear,” reveals Terressa Davis, the program coordinator. “A Heritage Watch team was dispatched and evidence of recent looting was immediately discovered with fresh holes near the ancient temple. In this case, Heritage Watch was too late to stop the damage, but such vigilance by the people on the spot will have a deterring effect.”

RESPONSIBLE TOURISM GUIDELINES

Cambodia boasts some of the world’s most remarkable monuments and archaeological sites which will hopefully benefit the country for generations to come. But they are fragile and must be treated with respect and care.

To enjoy your visit and ensure we all do our part to preserve the country’s past and future, follow these simple suggestions:
• Do not purchase ancient artefacts. these include glass and stone beads, pottery, stone tools and metal objects.
• Dispose of your rubbish appropriately and keep heritage sites clean.
• Respect the temples. they are active religious monuments and considered world heritage treasures.
• Refrain from touching carvings and bas-reliefs as this damages the stone.
• Conserve water in Siem Reap. the water table is dropping, which may make the monuments unstable.
• Try to use environmentally-friendly transport such as bicycles, electric bikes or horse-drawn carts in the park.
• Help the local economy – purchase Cambodian-made products.
• Say “no” to plastic bags.
• Patronise businesses that support culture/heritage – look out for the Heritage Friendly logo that is on display.

There is also recourse aft er the event. the magnificent Angkorian temple in Preah Khan bears the scars of greed and disrespect for Cambodia – and its glorious past – with massive chunks of sandstone, some over two metres tall, literally smashed out of the ancient building with sledgehammers. During an assessment visit, members of the Heritage Watch team measured and photographed the scars, sending the data to the FBI and US Department of Homeland Security. If the material is ever sent to the United States, it may be identified and intercepted.

TACKLING THE ROOTS

According to Heritage Watch Director, Dougald O’Reilly, poverty is the prime motivation for local looting. Heritage Watch has proposed a project that will seek to establish sustainable income for communities living near heritage resources so the local people will be the ones to benefit from their amazing history. the pilot project is set to be launched at Koh Ker, a temple group established northeast of Angkor in the 10thcentury.

Pending permission from the APSARA Authority (Authority for the Protection and Management of Angkor and the Region of Siem Reap), Heritage Watch will provide training for the local people in small business management, tourism relations, and heritage and environmental protection. Ox cart tours for visitors will provide income for the villagers.

EDUCATING THE BUYERS

While these activities may give a boost to the supply end of the antiquities trade, the organisation is also trying to inform those on the demand end. Heritage Watch surveys indicate that many visitors to Cambodia are unaware that looting is a problem or do not know that buying antiquities is illegal and punishable by fines and/or imprisonment.

Tourists may also be unaware that many businesses in Cambodia are supportive of Cambodian culture and heritage, and want to see the country develop economically.

In an effort to inform Cambodia’s visitors about maintaining responsible tourism practices, Heritage Watch has launched the Heritage Friendly Tourism Campaign with the cooperation and support of the Ministry of Tourism. One of the initiative’s main aims is to promote sustainable development.

According to Campaign Director, Kathy Fossati, an important part of the programme is a new magazine called TouchStone – a publication that will feature developments in heritage, news, activities, events, and information on other NGO activities in the fields of arts and culture.

Fossati adds that Heritage Watch will also establish a fund to support other local NGOs working in the arts, culture and heritage sectors. Money will be raised through donation boxes placed in Heritage Friendly businesses in the coming year and given directly to these NGOs.

ANTIQUITY FACTS TO CONSIDER:

• An estimated US$8 billion dollars worthof the world’s cultural heritage is stolen and sold each year.
• An estimated US$20 million dollars worthof Cambodia’s heritage has been sold since 1988.
• At least 90 per cent of the material sold on the antiquities market is illegally acquired.
• the antiquities trade deprives Cambodia of its patrimony and the world of important knowledge regarding its past.
• Nearly an estimated US$1 million worthof Khmer antiquities are traded through one internet auction house a year.

LOCAL BUSINESSES

At the core of the campaign are local businesses that have, for years, worked to support Cambodian cultural heritage. Late last year, establishments in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap had to meet a strict set of criteria to prove their contributions to this area; these exclusive businesses have become members of the Heritage Friendly Business Association and are authorised to display the Heritage Friendly logo.

One of the selected businesses is Java Café and Gallery, a Phnom Penh institution since its opening in 2000, known for excellent food and drink as well as its position at the forefront of the city’s art scene. Java Café has been certified as a “Heritage Friendly Business” for its promotion of local culture, consistently exhibiting works of contemporary art by bothCambodians and foreigners. Proprietor Dana Langlois is widely respected for her invaluable contribution to developing and encouraging artistic expression.

“We are helping to create a good image for Cambodia by fostering a positive work environment for the staff as well as supporting the development of local contemporary art,” she explains. “All arts organisations and exhibitions at Java Café are non-profit; we provide the space and promotion, and pass on information to customers on how they can access them.”

Being recognised as a Heritage Friendly Business enables Java Café to receive more exposure and is an example of how businesses and NGOs are uniting to create a better future for Cambodia.

And the future is very bright for the country. Visitors in their droves are keen to support the very aspects that make the country unique: its heritage and culture.

Look out for the Heritage Friendly logo on businesses or simply log onto www.heritagewatch.org to find out who and where they are today. In visiting or using their services, you will be helping to ensure that Cambodia’s vibrant culture and astonishing heritage will survive for another 2,000 years.