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ELEPHANT ASIA
OLIVER BENJAMIN ROUNDS UP THE BEST IN ELEPHANT-ORIENTED ACTIVITIES FROM AROUND THE BANGKOK AIRWAYS NETWORK
POP PSYCHOLOGY SAYS you can tell a lot about a person by what animal they identify with . How much more so, then, with a nation, or even an entire region?
Whereas Africa may idealise the majesty of the lion, Southern Europe, the strengthof the bull, and the Americas, the nobility of the horse, much of Asia has made a beloved hero of the elephant. Gentle and mighty, talented and highly intelligent, it’s no wonder so many have taken them to heart.
thailand, in particular, has identified itself with the popular pachyderm – until 1916, the national flag consisted of a white elephant on a red background. the country also hosts several annual activities in their honour: National Elephant Day is celebrated on 13 March, followed by the 7thannual Elephant Polo tournament at the Anantara Golden Triangle at the end of April, and finally, the biggest affair of all – November’s gigantic Elephant Round-Up in Surin province.
Of course, the reality behind the loveable icon is drawn in darker shades of grey. Aft er decades of poaching and encroachment of their habitats, the Asian elephant is now endangered – its numbers having dropped in thailand alone from 100,000 in 1900 to only 4,000 today. Where they were once prized for their heavy-lift ing skills, modern technology and anti-logging laws have rendered these gentle giants almost obsolete in that regard.
Not long ago, the future looked bleak, but a new role has been found for them as ambassadors for elephant tourism – which not only stands to generate funds for their care and survival, but also raise awareness about the plight of their kind.
Elephant-based activities are now growing at an amazing rate throughout Asia, with increasing numbers of visitors coming specifically to learn about, be entertained by, ride, and even train these incredible, emblematic mammals.
Here is a list of year-round highlights from around the region – some silly, others serious, and all of them unforgettable.
ELEPHANT ALL-ROUNDER
The thai Elephant Conservation Centre (TECC) is the best friend an elephant could have. Located in Lampang, a 90-minute drive from Chiang Mai, its activities and programmes have contributed enormously to these animals’ welfare in thailand and beyond.
Richard Lair, advisor to the programme, has written a book on elephant conservation and continues to push the envelope with all sorts of projects, ranging from an elephant hospital and CDs of elephants playing musical instruments to scientific research into locomotion and fertility, and even the training of the animals to paint beautiful impressionist canvases!
Tours run throughout the day, and one can even stay on the beautiful 122-hectare grounds while taking an extraordinary mahout course, where you learn how to control, train and gain the trust of a creature more than 50 times your weight. this is not something to take too lightly!
BATH-TIME BUDDIES
Similar to the mahout classes offered in Chiang Mai, Tiger Trail Elephant Camp near Luang Prabang, Laos offers a one-on-one experience with an elephant. Learn to bathe your new friend in the river, give it simple directional commands and place sugarcane rewards in its amusingly appendage-like trunk.
A variety of other adventurous activities are offered, with all profits channelled towards elephant conservation efforts.
Aft er action-packed days of playing with pachyderms, pamper yourself at the luxurious Lao Spirit and Elephant Lodge Resorts.
MEGA MUSEUM
Unlike any other museum in the world, the Erawan Museum near Bangkok’s unusual collection of ancient thai religious objects is housed inside an enormous bronze sculpture of the three-headed elephant Erawan, vehicle of the Hindu God Indra. At 14 stories tall and as wide as a football field, it is not only a museum, but the biggest elephant sculpture on earth.
While the oldest artefacts are found in the pedestal below, a lift inside one of the elephant’s hind legs brings visitors into a surreal Buddhist chapel whose walls follow the rounded contours of the elephant’s belly. A truly unique encounter!
Right, the largest elephant sculpture in the world stands at Erawan Museum. Below, discover the Secret Buddha Garden and Samui’s jungle by elephant.
A JAUNT IN THE JUNGLE
those who stick to Koh Samui’s well-worn spots might never know that the thai island boasts a dense jungle interior, inaccessible by much motorised transport. However, riding a more traditional vehicle – an intrepid elephant – will get you deep into the heart of green-ness.
Despite their size, elephants are astonishingly agile, and due to their soft feet, actually do less damage to the jungle than many smaller animals. A full day trek can take you to the enchanting and normally hard-to-reach Secret Buddha Garden, a tiny valley strewn with statuesof mythical animals, spirits and, of course, many variations of Buddha.
Chaweng Elephant Trekking, Living thailand and Island Safari Company are among the many outfits on the island that offer interesting tours.
TRUNK TALES
The spectacular, otherworldly karst topography surrounding Guilin is the stuff coffee-table books are made of, and the best way to see it is on a breathtaking boat trip down the Li river.
A highlight of the cruise is the striking Elephant Trunk Hill, a huge portion of eroded limestone that looks like an elephant drinking water from the shoreline. According to legend, it was once an insatiable elephant who threatened to drink the river dry. the gods stabbed it with a heavenly sword to stop it, turning the creature to stone.
the handle of the sword is now said to be the hilt-shaped Puxian Pagoda which sits atop the hill. Luckily for Guilin and its elephant population, none of them were ever again so thirsty.
ELEPHANT EXTRAVAGANZAS
Fantasea’s Palace of the Elephants in Phuket is a lavish show on a Las Vegas scale, where you can see an amazing play showcasing the mythical origins of the thai people. Featuring an astonishing chorus-line of elephants performing synchronised tricks, this is where the notion of “grandiose” becomes multiplied upon itself towards an entirely new concept altogether.
those seeking something less circus-
like should visit Pattaya’s Elephant Village. In operation since 1974, this is one of the oldest elephant sanctuaries in thailand. A fun, fascinating and relaxing break from the bustle of town, the small, privately-owned village is a run by a former elephant-keeper.
their interesting 90-minute shows are meant to educate as well as entertain, explaining what the daily life of an elephant is like. Elephant treks are also available, but at peak season, up to 1,000 people can show up daily, so make sure to book in advance. Aft er all, there are only so many elephants to go around.
CITY HIGHS
Phnom Penh’s most famous elephant, Sam Bo can be found hanging around Wat Phnom waiting to take tourists up to the temple on top of the little mount. For only US$10, this is one of the most inexpensive elephant rides in Asia for a leisurely shuffl e above the crowds.
Aft er dismounting, toast your charge at the stylish Elephant Bar in the historic Raffl es Hotel Le Royal, just a two-minute walk away. three signature cocktails are on offer here – the Femme Fatale, named in honour of Jacqueline Kennedy; the Airavata, fashioned with top-secret ingredients; and the Million-Dollar Cocktail, made famous by Somerset Maugham’s story the Letter.
Aft er a few of these during the bar’s Happy Hours, you’re likely to adopt the swaying gait of Sam Bo himself.
WRINKLES IN TIME
One of the highlights of Angkor thom, the ancient city section of the Angkor ruins near Siem Reap, is the stunning Terrace of Elephants – a 350m stone wall with carved elephant heads jutting out. this platform was where the 12thcentury King Jayavarman VII addressed his assembled audiences. Consequently, it is one of the oldest testaments to the animal’s longstanding esteem and association with royalty throughout the annals of Southeast Asia.
For another ancient example, look no further than thailand’s Sukhothai. Nothing beats a healthy bicycle ride around the grassy ruins of a 600-year-old former metropolis, especially when an array of elephant statues completes the picture.
Amidst the crumble of the old town is the modestly-sized but picturesque Atlas Elephants stupa – several well-preserved stone tuskers carrying a big old bell-shaped monument on their backs for several centuries (poor things!).
BEEN THERE, DUNG THAT
Paper made from elephant dung? It’s more than just a tall tale: given that the majority of an elephant’s diet is coarse fibre, its stomach works excellently to turn plant matter into soft ened material which can then be used to make distinctive paper products. As anyone who has spent any time around elephants knows, there’s never any shortage of this material.
While the technique probably originated in Africa, Lampang’s TECC first helped market it at the centre and throughout Chiang Mai. thereaft er, Luang Prabang’s Oliver Bandmann started up his own concern in Laos. the local raconteur and art aficionado sells a variety of marvellous designs at his Baan Khily Gallery, where those in the know stop by to chat with this larger-than-life personality, browse through his collection of fine Lao craft s, and stock up on this very unusual stationery.
FLYING HIGH
Don’t think that Disneyland Hong Kong’s Dumbo the Flying Elephant ride is just for kids! Taking off aboard everyone’s favourite big-eared baby elephant on this aerial merry-go-round high above mere earthbound mammals provides cartoonish thrills and a great view over the entire theme park.
As Asian elephants are distinguished by their smaller ears, floppy-eared Dumbo might in fact be an African immigrant, but you won’t care once you’re onboard.
CONTACT DETAILS
Baan Khily Gallery, Sakarine Road, Luang Prabang, Laos, tel +856 (0)71 212611, email oliverbandmann@hotmail.com; Erawan Museum at the Ancient City, 99/9 M1, Muang Samut Prakan, Thailand, tel +66 (0)2 371-3134, www..ancientcity.com; Hong Kong Disneyland, tel +852 183-0830, www.hongkongdisneyland.com; Chaweng Elephant Trekking, tel +66 (0)77 231210; Living Thailand, tel +66 (0)77 418680; Island Safari Co., tel +66 (0)77 230567; Thai Elephant Conservation Centre, Km 28-29, Lampang – Chiang Mai Road, Lampang, thailand, tel+66 (0)54 228108/034, www.thailandelephant.org; Tiger Trail Elephant and Adventure Camp, Ban Wat that 50-51, Luang Prabang, Laos, tel/fax +856 (0)71 252655, www.laos-adventures.com; Pattaya Elephant Village, 54/1 Moo 2, Pattaya City, thailand, tel/fax+66 (038) 249818/853, www.elephant-village-pattaya.com; Phuket Fantasea, 99 M3 Kamala Beach, Phuket, thailand, tel +66 (0)76 385111, www.phuket-fantasea.com; Raffes Hotel Le Royal, 92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh, Phnom Penh, Cambodia, tel +855 (0)23 98188, http://phnompenh.raffl es.com
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