MANAMI OKAZAKI SOAKS UP THE COUNTRY’S HOT SPRING CULTURE

JAPAN IS KNOWN for its cutting-edge contemporary culture, art, fashion and cities that never sleep – probably not for chilling out and rejuvenating the spirit. However, there is an ingrained ritual of soaking in hot springs that has benefits for both the body and the soul – and should not be missed during a visit.

More than just a way of relaxing, onsen (hot springs) are an integral part of Japanese culture. They provide relief from the pressures of the country’s intense work ethic and long hours, as well as a chance for colleagues and friends to relax without regular social hierarchical barriers.

A certain kind of kinship can be built by soaking in a hot spring together, and while the thought of being in a bath naked with your boss, professor, colleagues or employees might be a bit strange, in Japan, this ritual is a national institution of sorts. Accordingly, it is one of the favourite activities of any Japanese person, regardless of age or social background.

THE NATURAL CHOICE

Hot springs are the positive flipside of Japan being located on a set of unstable Teutonic plates that produce earthquakes and volcanoes. There about 150 sources, with a total of 14,000 individual springs all over the country, which can be found in several stunning natural settings – from mountainous regions where onsen visits are typically coupled with mountain walks and an opportunity to enjoy the changing scenery of the seasons, to beside the crashing waves of the ocean.

Their locations often create fantastic natural contrasts, such as being able to soak in pools that are boiling hot but reside right next to a freezing cold river. A particularly popular onsen setting is in the snow, where a brisk walk through sub-zero temperatures will lead you to a bath surrounded by nothing but a field of icy white powder – and ultimate serenity.

In the Yudanaka hot spring in Nagano prefecture, if you are lucky enough, you might even get the chance to share a bath with a horde of local monkeys who come with their families to soak in the divine warmth.

THE RELIGION OF RELAXATION

The Japanese regularly make onsen trips, and it’s not uncommon for groups of six or seven to hire a room onsite and bunk together. Of course, this is also a favourite activity for couples seeking quality time together and a perfect escape from the stresses of the city.

For a bit of privacy, it is also possible to hire your own bath for a few hours – particularly good for the shy Western foreigner who balks at the thought of stripping off in front of others.

Devotees would argue that there is nothing quite as relaxing as spending a few hours luxuriating in the mineral rich waters of an onsen. You’ll emerge feeling deliciously devoid of any stress, and after a quick nap in the soothing comfort of your cotton yukata kimono (and maybe a massage thrown in too) in the resting rooms, the meaning of nirvana becomes much more understandable.

Accordingly, the culture of soaking is attributable to Shintoism, as well as the introduction of Buddhism in 522AD, where purity is seen as a virtue and its rituals incorporate a special relationship with water and cleansing. Indeed, many of the hot spring sites were discovered by priests who were deep in the wilderness on their quest for enlightenment.

Onsens have been enjoyed in Japan for thousands of years – certain myths even tell of ancient gods enjoying a soak, or men being led to hot springs by supernatural creatures that came to them in a dream. Hence, the idea that onsen are sacred water reserves remains deeply permeated in the national psyche.

BATHING CONTROL

Hot spring etiquette is important. Remember, the number one fact is that public baths are for soaking – not for scrubbing, soaping or lathering – and, as one sign amusingly states, certainly not for washing clothing either. They are purely for sitting in, after you have carefully washed yourself at one of the designated areas outside, thus ensuring that the water remains suitably clean. (Generally, even in people’s homes, baths are also used in this way – the Japanese find the European concept of washing in a bath and then sitting in dirty water a very unappealing thought.)

Be warned before you throw yourself in, as the steaming water in the baths are usually boiling hot! The moment you poke your foot in, you might well wonder if you will be scalded by the seemingly searing heat. Take it one step at a time and slowly enter the bath to allow your body time to adjust.

Unlike in the West, where you can spend an hour in the bath, the heat is rather overwhelming and you will probably need to get out after 10 minutes. Sit on the edge of the bath, relax, cool down and repeat the process, until you are left completely sloth-like.

Above, some onsen rooms boast their own private bath. Below, enjoy soaking in a steaming hot spring surroundeded by peaceful nature.

SOUL FOOD

If you stay the night at an onsen (and most of the more exclusive ones require that you do), expect to be fed the most exquisite of Japanese kaiseki cuisine – course after course of delicacies that usually change according to season. Springtime delights can involve bamboo shoots and sakura ice-cream, whilst winter food is traditionally heavier and richer on the palette.

Kaiseki courses are typically small servings of the best of Japanese haute cuisine, appearing one after another – sometimes up to 13 courses of food that is prepared in a manner akin to art. Petals are used to decorate the food, delicate slivers of sushi are laid out on fine lacquer ware, and tiny porcelain bowls hold shards of seasonal vegetables prepared in a veritable gourmet sculpture.

After filling up on the delicious fare, another lie-down is required, and then a final soak before retiring to your futon (mattress) laid out on the tatami floor. The earthy smell of the tatami and the fluffy futons combined with the minerals that have permeated your body should guarantee you the best night’s sleep of your life.

All in all, this entire process is a healing and therapeutic ritual – not only for the body, but the soul as well.

BODY BENEFITS

The actual benefits of onsen to the body are instantly recognisable – your skin will positively glow, all those work-induced wrinkles will slowly elongate, and the knots in your back muscles will unwind, leaving you feeling detoxified and utterly cleansed.

However, the benefits are more than skin-deep. Lately, hot springs have been used in medical rehabilitation and recuperation, as the water itself is rich in beneficial minerals used to treat many ailments and boost general health.

The contents of the water vary according to location; some types of onsen include carbonate, which is good for heart disease, blood circulation disorders and neurological disorders. Radium hot springs, which contain a certain amount of radium or thoron, are considered good for digestive disorders or rheumatism. Gypsum springs are lauded to help soothe rheumatism or heal wounds while also helping to increase metabolism when taken as a drink.

Yes, not only are mineral-rich hot springs good for bathing, but also for drinking; and often, food such as eggs are cooked in the boiling water, which are then served for dinner or breakfast.

FUKUOKA FAVORITES

While Japan’s finest hot springs are located all over the country, both of Bangkok Airways’ destinations offer a host of good choices for visitors to sample. Among them are several recommended sites within close distance of Fukuoka.

Hakata is probably the nearest and is only 30 minutes by car. It is the home of many ryokans (Japanese-style hotels) and bath houses, and is famed for having particularly clear waters that are effective in healing neuralgia, rheumatism and skin diseases.

It is also worth venturing out to many of the neighbouring onsen towns, each with their own distinct characteristics and all within a few hours by car. Easily accessible from Fukuoka is Futsukaichi, which is an onsen area with a rich history of over 1,300 years, highlighted by its charming old buildings. Futsukaichi is also near Dazaifu Tenmangu and other historical sites.

Chikugogawa Onsen in Ukiha Town, located on a sandbank in the Chikugo, also boasts an onsen which was only discovered underground in 1955. This is a rare radium spring, said to be ideal for treating neuralgia and rheumatism.

Harazuru Onsen in Haki Town is famous for its seasonal changes: cherry blossoms in spring, cormorant fishing in summer, and beautiful fall colours in the autumn; while Funagoya Onsen has a picturesque location along the mountain stream of the Yabe River which empties into the Ariake Sea. The summer fireflies attract many visitors and add to the area’s enchanted atmosphere.

Beppu is another famous onsen town that is easily reached from Fukuoka Airport, either by limousine bus directly from the airport or by train, which leaves from JR Hakata station and takes about two hours. In particular, Beppu Onsen Hoyo offers a special type of mud bath called Doroyu that is very sticky, but which is reputably known to be especially good for the skin.

HIROSHIMA HOT SPOTS

The area around Hiroshima actually boasts some of Japan’s best hot springs, which are particularly enjoyable after a day of snowboarding or skiing in the surrounding mountains during the winter months.

Of particular note are those on Miyajima island, the UNESCO World Heritage Site that has a picturesque Shinto shrine and is considered to be sacred. Benten no Yado Itsukushima is among the island’s best, boasting stunning views from the baths which can be enjoyed while sipping a sake.

Two hours from Hiroshima, west of Ehime and in the northeastern part of Matsuyama is Dogo Onsen, Japan’s oldest noted spa that is said to have been opened 3,000 years ago. The building was erected in 1894 and has a magnificent three-storied castle-styled wooden structure.

So next time you visit the Land of the Rising Sun, drop your inhibitions, strip off and enjoy the primal delights of soaking in nature. You will gain a special appreciation for the Japanese rendition of “cleanliness is next to godliness” – and never view the act of taking a bath in the same way again.

CONTACT DETAILS

Benten no Yado Itsukushima, 634 Miyajima-cho, Hatsukaichi-shi, Hiroshima, tel +81 (0)82 944-2121, www.bentennoyado.com
Beppu Onsen Hoyo, Beppu City Tourism Association, tel +81 (0)97 724-2828, www.beppu-navi.jp
Chikugogawa Onsen ,1077-8 Furukawa, Ukiha town, Ukiha, tel +81 (0)94 377-7444
Dogo Onsen, 6-9 Yunomachi, Dogo, Matsuyama, tel +81 (0)899 213708, www.city.matsuyama.ehime.jp
Funagoya Onsen, Oshima 805-1, Chikugo, tel +81 (0)94 252-2101, www.funagoya.com
Hakata Onsen, Yumachi,Chikushino 1-14-5, tel +81 (0)92 922-2119, www.chikushino.org/higaeri/index.html
Hotel Higuchi-ken, Chikugo, Funagoya Onsen, 805, tel +81 (0)94 252-7940, http://higuchiken.co.jp
Funagoya Onsen, Oshima 805-1, Chikugo, tel +81 (0)94 252-2101, www.funagoya.com
Futsukaichi Onsen, 1-1 Chuoh, Futsukaichi, Chikushino, tel +81 (0)92 922-2412, www.chikushino.org
Harazuru Onsen, Hachishiwa, Asakura, tel +81 (0)94 662-0620, www.harazuru.jp
Yuki Onsen Lodge, 2563-1 Tada, Yuki town, Saikiku, Hiroshima, tel +81 (0)829 850111, www.yuki-lodge.com