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ON YOUR BIKE
Nick Boulos discovers the beauty of exploring Asia on two wheels
TUK-TUKS AND RICKSHAWS may dominate the bustling streets of Asia, but there’s another form of transport which is equally important to the region’s heritage and future – the bicycle.
They may seem primitive in comparison to their more modern and polluting cousins, but bicycles continue to influence the lives of millions of people, as they have done for decades.
“The little treasures are a real tool – the link between the fields, the market and the town,” says photographer Bruno Sananes. “Without telephones, the bicycle became the people’s primary means of communication.”
But it’s not only those who rely on bikes that appreciate their value. Bicycle tourism is big business. Tailor-made trips ranging from days to weeks are now available for hardcore enthusiasts. Of course, working up a continuous sweat for two weeks is not everyone’s idea of a relaxing holiday, but day trips are a less vigorous alternative.
“Cycling is a great way to see Asia,” declares Naomi Skinner, co-founder of Bike Asia. “It’s an opportunity to meet people, learn about new cultures and experience different landscapes.”
Bike-riding is ideal for integrating with the society in which you find yourself. Asia is the world’s biggest biking culture, so roads and traffic are, unsurprisingly, geared up to accommodate cyclists and not intimidate them. But beyond everything else, cycling allows for ultimate flexibility. Everything is on your own terms. You dictate the pace and number of stops en route, and you decide when to ditch the map and rely on your instincts instead.
There’s nothing quite like pedalling through stunning scenery with the sights, sounds and smells whizzing past – a sensation not offered by luxury coaches or air-conditioned taxis.
The most enticing aspects are the chance encounters. Pulling over by a rice field and waving to a farmer, or stopping to watch a group of orange-clad monks in silent prayer, and other such defining moments that you would otherwise pass by. No other mode of transport offers such spontaneity.
All in all, touring by bike certainly turns an interesting holiday into a real adventure and provides opportunities to observe daily life that could potentially be missed on an organised route.
Here are five of the region’s best cycling hotspots to explore.
1. Chiang Mai, Thailand
With its laid-back atmosphere, pleasant climate and fascinating heritage, the northern city of Chiang Mai is Thailand’s crowning glory. Enclosed by a moat and sections of a grand city wall, most of Chiang Mai’s key attractions are within easy distance of each other.
Top of the list is Wat Prasat. Boasting beautiful artwork on its age-old walls, this temple is a classic example of Lanna architecture and can be found towards the end of Inthawarorot Road.
Crowds flock to the gold-spired Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, also known as the Temple in the Mountains which, as the name suggests, is an incredible place of worship perched high above the city. The views from the top are simply breathtaking.
For a cultural afternoon, cycle along Chiang Dao-Fang Road, leaving the town behind, and head to the Chiang Mai National Museum, which contains a fascinating array of antiques, historic weaponry, pottery and Buddha images in all styles. It is also an ideal opportunity to see the lush surrounding countryside.
Come nightfall, the sprawling Night Bazaar along Th Chang Khlan is the place to see and be seen. However, it might be wise to invest in a bike with a basket to cart all your bargains back to the hotel.
How to: Get your two-wheelers at Bike & Bite (23/1 Sriphum Road, tel +66 (0)53 418534), a reputable local company that can also arrange guided bike tours around the Old Town. Bikes can also be hired from guesthouses for 100 baht per day.
2. Yangshou, China
The charismatic town of Yangshou, 70km south of Guilin, is the definition of cool. The gentle Li River community exudes charm without even trying and is set amongst some of southern China’s most spectacular scenery. Dramatic limestone karsts dominate the landscape and provide the perfect backdrop for a day’s cycling and intrepid exploring through verdant countryside.
Yangshou rises early, so a pre-breakfast ride along the cobbled streets will ease you into the day as tai chi lessons begin in the quiet corners of the town. A visit to the dynamic market first thing will definitely kick-start your day. Located on Pantao Lu, locals come from far and wide to stock up on produce. With cages of dogs, rabbits, rats and geese on display, it’s easy to mistake the fresh meat section for the pet department, but that’s China for you!
Once beyond Yangshou, the traffic quickly disappears, and the area becomes quiet and green, with miles upon miles of paddy fields and quaint villages. It’s easy to submerse yourself in this rural existence by meandering on your bike along local paths normally used by farmers and their cattle.
The most visited site in the vicinity is undoubtedly Moon Hill, an unusual limestone pinnacle, standing at 380m tall and boasting a crescent-shaped hole in the middle. Moon Hill is about an hour’s ride and a 20km round-trip from Yangshou, with beautiful sights and incredible scenery along the way.
How to: West Street is full of tour operators who can arrange trips into the countryside. Most are also happy to rent bikes out if you’d prefer to go independently and a day’s hire should cost 10 yuan. The Visitors Information Centre on the corner of West Street and Cheng Zhang Road can also cater for your cycling needs.
Alternatively, contact a local guide directly. Farmer Tang (tel +86 (136) 4786-8730) is a colourful and friendly character who has lived in Yangshou all his life. Tang prides himself on taking his guests on a journey of discovery through the “real Yangshou”.
All equipment is provided, as is a delicious multi-dish lunch laid on by his wife in the couple’s village home.
3. Bagan, MyanMar
The ancient town of Bagan (ex-Yangon) – officially known as the “Bagan Archaeological Site” – is like something from an Indiana Jones movie. Thousands of centuries-old temples, stupas and pagodas devour the landscape, making it a spiritual and sacred place for Burmese people everywhere.
With its uninterrupted silence, Bagan is a place to be savoured. Quiet reflection is consuming as you glide along the leafy country lanes and sandy dirt tracks within the 42sq km area. Not sharing such tranquil moments with the roar of an engine is just magical.
Certain temples like the gilded Ananda Pahto and the white pyramid-style Shwesandaw Paya attract all the limelight and have a steady flow of tourist footsteps, but it’s not difficult to venture off the beaten track and unearth your very own corner of this captivating place. Clusters of irresistible relics are visible in the distance from Anawratha Road and a network of dusty paths leading into the plains grants closer access.
Guides are in short demand. All that’s needed to get a taste of what makes Bagan so special is a bike and possibly a map. With only three main roads, even the most directionally-challenged will have trouble getting lost. Take comfort in the fact that every temple, no matter how desolate, has a key-keeper nearby who will allow you entry inside or point you back towards the road.
Late afternoons bring a frenzy of activity, if such a thing is ever possible here, as everyone scrambles to claim their spot on stupas across the land in preparation for Bagan’s most spectacular sight – the glorious sunsets against the mountainous backdrop.
How to: Practically all the guesthouses in the area have bikes for hire and an abundance of advice. The staff are always pleased to share their wealth of knowledge, so feel free to discuss your plans and ask for tips.
Bikes are also available from stands along Bagan-Nyaung U Road, near the market. A day’s hire will cost about US$1.
4. Luang Prabang, Laos
Luang Prabang was once described as “the place that time forgot” – a sentiment that captures the essence of this town perfectly. On the surface, it may be just another river town, but it was awarded UNESCO World Heritage status for very good reason.
Nestled between the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, Luang Prabang is surrounded by mountains and boasts beautiful architecture, a fusion of French colonial and traditional Lao, throughout its charming streets.
The city is small and a joy to explore by bike – hopping off and on again as you like. The attractions and temples are of the highest quality, but do also make time to simply soak up the atmosphere.
Haw Kham, the former Royal Palace, is situated on Phothisalat Road and contains the gold Buddha known as the “Pha Bang”, which later went on to name the town in which it currently resides.
Located on the outskirts of Luang Prabang, the small village of Ban Phanom is particularly famous for its weaving. Women can often be seen working on new garments before selling them at the local market. The 4km journey there is a highlight in itself.
How to: Cycles can be rented from vendors in the Old Town and cost about US$1-3 per day. North By North East Travel (tel +66 (0) 4251-3572, www.north-by-north-east.com) operates three-day cycling excursions of Luang Prabang, which includes visits to various temples and museums as well as the impressive Pak Ou Buddha Caves.
5. Siem Reap, Cambodia
Over recent years, Siem Reap has exploded onto the tourist map, for one very significant reason – Angkor Wat, a vast collection of mighty temples that are standing tributes to a long-lost legacy. Built between the 9th and 13th centuries, these wondrous structures are a sight to behold.
It’s easy to spend a day or two (even three) gently cruising along the paved lanes of this bygone era – some even dedicate an entire week in a bid to uncover all of Angkor’s secrets. The crowning glory is Angkor Wat itself, the largest and quite possibly grandest religious building ever constructed.
Exploring the temples on bike is not only plausible, but infinitely rewarding. It feels as though you’ve travelled back through time and is a great way to escape the tour groups. The distances between the different sites are flat and relatively manageable, but extra time and manpower is required to see the outer temples.
After a tiring day covering ground around the Angkor complex, head downtown where you’ll be spoilt for choice on where to wine and dine. Siem Reap is a very safe place and its compact layout makes it practical for cyclists.
How to: The temples are situated 7km from Siem Reap – an easy-going and pleasant distance to cover. Bikes can be rented from guesthouses in town for about US$2 per day. Expect to pay more for a bike in better condition.
ON THE ROAD
Bike Asia (www.bikeasia.com, tel +86 (0)773 882-6521) operates a number of biking holidays throughout the region, including the Yangshuo Five-Day Cycling Getaway and the 13-Day Karma Cambodia. The latter, starting in Siem Reap and ending in Phnom Penh, includes two days of cycling around Angkor Wat before heading south to explore the coastline and further afield.
Bangkok-based Spice Roads (www.spiceroads.com, tel +66 (0)2 712-5305) is another highly recommended company that operates cycling adventures of various lengths throughout Southeast Asia.
Among the exciting tour options are the 11-Day Northern Laos tour, which starts in Chiang Mai and heads up through rugged mountains to Luang Prabang, and the 14-Day Burma Adventure. Riders begin the magical 700km journey in Mandalay before heading to Bagan along the Irrawaddy, over to Inle Lake, and then down to finish in Yangon.
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