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SAMUI SECRETS
FOLLOWING the recent upsurge of swish new resorts, restaurants and property development, Koh Samui may no longer be the o~ -the-beaten-track destination it once was. Yet, the palm-fringed paradise on the Gulf of ˚ ailand still harbours hidden gems.
With easy access across the island and beyond, these 10 diversions are not “secrets” in the strictest sense, but they are certainly enjoyably low-key a~ airs for visitors seeking to escape the crowds of Chaweng Beach.
1. MAGIC GARDEN
Leave the sandy shores for a little while and head for the hills – preferably in a hired 4WD jeep or car rather than a motorbike, as the interior’s roads are steep.
Take the only right turn with a decent tarmac surface off Highway 4169 at the inland village of Baan Saket in the southwest. The verdant route snakes several hundred metres up above the island before signs start popping up for the “Magic Garden” – a hidden sculpture garden created 30 years ago by the hermit-like artist Nim Thongsuk, who continued to embellish the site until his recent death at the age of 77 years old.
Thongsuk was a fifth generation Samui Thai, who blended stone and cement renditions of national mythical characters, Thai dancers and Buddhist monks with members of the animal kingdom. Figures meld with the natural rock formations that surround the tiny Tarnim Waterfall, which run into a small babbling brook.
Look closely around the vicinity, as some of the artist’s work is pretty well hidden – such as the pairs of feet that sprout from a rock outcrop or two. Admission: 60 baht per person.
2. A BIRD’S EYE VIEW
A visit to Magic Garden is well worth time away from the beach – both for the destination and views. On the way, stop at Samui’s highest point that overlooks the island from north to south, encompassing the surrounding islands as well as the mainland.
Drive around the top of Khao Yai or “Big Mountain”, and take the small dirt-track turnings for dramatic vistas in different directions. Warning: Pay attention to the “prohibited access” road signs. There is a military zone on the hillside that is out of bounds to the public, but it is well-marked and easily avoided.
3. WATERY WONDERS
Despite its easy reach – a short hop off Highway 4169 at the southern central part of Samui, close to Baan Thurian village – Namuang Waterfall I (there is also a Namuang II) is often found deserted. Although not the most spectacular of Samui’s handful of falls, its wide rock face is drenched by white water and spray for most of the year, filling pools that are occasionally enjoyed by local families and creating a scenic spot to cool off. If you fancy a dip, take waterproof footwear to scramble over the rocks to the main plunge pool, or go barefoot – and remember to pack that towel.
4.SECRET SUNDAYS
A quiet institution – well, perhaps not that quiet – takes place every Sunday evening at Big Buddha Bay, when this section of the beach rocks with amplified reverberations radiating from the stage within Secret Garden Beach Resort’s lush grounds.
The end-of-week gig and barbecue draws both expatriate and Thai residents, as well as a smattering of tourists. As dusk falls at around 6.30pm, the buzz of arrivals begins with often only 
standing room remaining an hour later. Bands with international members play rock music that ranges from acoustic to more raucous renditions, while visiting musicians have been known to happily join in the jam too.
Adults and children mingle, eat and dance until 11pm, although the laid-back party often goes on until around 1am. 22/1 Moo 4, Ban Bangrak,
Big Buddha Beach, tel +66 (0)77 245255, www.secretgarden.co.th
5. DINNER A DEUX
The standard and range of cuisine on Koh Samui has certainly been on the rise in recent times, with the island’s stylish resorts attracting a host of talented, international chefs serving up exquisite gourmet.
For those seeking a special meal, the terrace at TawaNN is hard to beat. Part of the new Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa, the restaurant’s wide vista of Lamai Bay and crimson sunsets look like they are something that is straight out of a novel.
Sitting right on top of the water, the attentive but relaxed service is just a small part of the experience; the food is really the star of the show. Belgian chef Joeri Schreurs dishes up modern Continental fare, with a focus on fresh herbs – some of which are homegrown – and standout dishes that include locally-caught lobster carpaccio and duck liver terrine. 208/1 Moo 4, Laem Nan Beach, Lamai, tel +66 (0)77 429300, www.renaissancehotels.com
6. TROPICAL TREATMENTS
Koh Samui’s spa scene has blossomed in recent years, with the quality of treatments and environment constantly elevating in the face of stiff competition.
One operation still stands out among the rest, combining a reputably high level of massage and beauty regimes against a backdrop of unparallelled tropical whimsy.
The name of this sanctuary is Tamarind Springs, where natural rock formations and trees can be found within its treatment salas. Located between Lamai and Chaweng, the spa offers several half- and full-day packages, including the use of its unique herbal steam sauna set between two huge prehistoric boulders. 205/3 Thong Takian, Koh Samui, tel +66
(0)77 424221, www.tamarindretreat.com
7. SOI COOL
Chaweng is very much on the beaten track, but one tiny backstreet off the main drag – Soi Colibri – has welcomed the arrival of a few trendy little restaurants and bars catering to a more discerning crowd hankering after a bit more style and sophistication.
Betelnut (tel +66 (0)77 413370), Bellini 
(tel +66 (0)77 413462) and Jing (tel +66 (0)77 413831) are among the innovative eateries – the latter’s daytime dim sum and authentic Cantonese cuisine are welcome additions to Samui’s dining scene.
Nearby, the cosy lounge bars, Pod and ESP are the perfect places for that after-dinner drink or a casual bite.
8. A RUM JOKE
On the southern, least-visited part of the island of Koh Samui lies Magic Alambic Distillery that uses an age-old French method to produce a small quantity of surprisingly high-grade rum.
French couple Michel and Elisa Gabrel, who were once the owners of a fruit farm in their native country, established the sugarcane-to-quality-alcoholic-beverage production within the grounds of their small holiday villa operation.
Come and observe the rum-making process for yourself. While you’re at it, pick up a bottle or two as an unusual souvenir. The sign-posted distillery is at the end of Highway 4173 and is marked by two large white gateposts. 44/5 Moo 3 Namuang, tel +66 (0)77 419023
9. BELIEVE IT
Koh Samui’s indigenous belief system and superstitious nature is evident in some unexpected forms – from holy trees and primate saints to a mobile fortune-teller advertising his services on his car’s rear bumper.
Ancient banyan trees are deemed sacred on Samui; this explains why some are adorned with years’ worth of coloured garlands, and surrounded by offerings of food and incense – symbols of wishes made. Look out for the popular one on the path to Namuang Waterfall I. This spiritual reverence for the ancient and natural is rooted in the local Buddhist tradition.
Monkeys, traditionally used for coconut-picking on the island, are also deeply respected. At the entrance of a small Chinese-style temple near Laemdin Market, close to Chaweng, don’t miss the monkey parent and offspring deified at an outdoor altar.
10. NEW CHEWS
Recently, indigenous Samui palm sugar snacks have been given a revamp, with the local government doling out financial incentives for a more sanitised version. Operators are happy to show how the glutinous rice-flour, pandan leaf juice or coconut milk flavourings are moulded into toasted sesame-seed-topped pyramids. One vendor can be found on the dirt track that leads to “Grandmother” and “Grandfather Rock”, near Lamai; 20 baht buys a small bag.
KEY TO MAP
1. Magic Garden
2. Khao Yai viewpoint
3. Namuang Waterfall I
4. Secret Garden Beach Resort
5. TawaNN at Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa
6. Tamarind Springs
7. Soi Colibri
8. Magic Alambic Distillery
9. Chinese temple near Laemdin Market
10. Palm sugar vendor at “Grandmother” and “Grandfather Rock”
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