ANDREW RICHARDSON GOES WITH THE FLOW ON ASIA’S MIGHTY RIVER

The mighty Mekong is one of the world’s great rivers and Asia’s third longest waterway, surpassed only by the Yangtze and Yellow Rivers in China. Starting its long journey high on the Tibetan Plateau as the Dza-chu River, or River of Rock, it meanders for thousands of kilometres through stunning countryside before meeting the South China Sea. This impressive water course brings life to the six countries it passes – providing irrigation for agriculture; transport links for business and travellers; a commercial outlet for market stall holders; and food in abundance for local people. Nourished by the snow in the himalayas, the Mekong’s source in China’s Qinghai Province is near the border with Tibet. It flows through Yunnan Province and forms the border between Myanmar and Laos, as well as most of the border between Laos and Thailand. This major river then crosses Cambodia and southern Vietnam to form the rich Mekong Delta before escaping to sea. In the upper course are steep descents and swift rapids, but eventually, the waters calm and the river known as Mae Nam Khong is navigable south of Luang Prabang in Laos – a perfect place for visitors to take a boat trip and discover its magic for themselves.

ALL ABOARD

Travelling along the glorious Mekong is an experience that evokes deep emotions – a dazzlingly scenic journey that offers a rather unique snapshot of Southeast Asia. Pristine forests, small subsistence villages, huge factories and age-old temples are among the sights to see. Myanmar and China provide a glimpse of the Mekong’s incredible potential while Thailand offers up vast tracts of countryside revealing intense and unspoiled beauty. In Laos, crumbling shores struggle to hold back the encroaching jungle and fascinating riverside attractions – such as the Pak Ou Caves near the town of Luang Prabang – beckon the journeyman to explore its riverbank. Downriver in Cambodia, a sunset boat ride from Phnom Penh’s quays offers spectacular views as the sun sinks behind the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda. Into Vietnam, and the awesome power of the river is revealed, as the Mekong not only irrigates but also refreshes the land with rich alluvial soil, dominating the landscape and local way of life.

Protection Plans

Harnessing the huge potential of the Mekong and conserving it for future generations is the important task of staff at the Mekong River Commission (MRC) based in Vientiane, Laos. It was formed on 5 April 1995 by an agreement between the governments of Cambodia, Lao People’s Democratic Republic (PDR), Thailand and Vietnam, involving the joint management of their shared water resources and development of the economic potential of the river. In 2002, China and Myanmar became dialogue partners of the MRC and the six countries now work together within a framework of cooperation. The experts of the organisation strive to protect the unique environment and ecological balance of the Mekong River Basin while encouraging sustainable forms of agriculture, fisheries and economic development. “The population near the lower Mekong River Basin is about 60 million and the great majority of the inhabitants are farmers and fishermen who depend directly on the natural resource base,” explains Virginia Addison of the MRC. “That is why the integrity of the basin’s ecology is vital to the community’s social, cultural and economic well-being.” Population pressure is mounting and, while the river is relatively unpolluted at this point in time, systems need to be put in place now in order to protect this very important regional resource for future generations.

Five Fascinating Facts

1. The Mekong River Basin covers an area of 795,000sq km covering portions of China, Myanmar and Vietnam, nearly one third of Thailand, and most of Cambodia and Laos. It is nearly the size of France and Germany combined. 2. It would take two days of 24-hour driving at 100km per hour to drive the same distance as the length of the Mekong River, which measures 4,800km. 3. Only the Amazon River Basin has a greater diversity of plant and animal life. 4. So much water flows into the mainstream Mekong that, on average, 15,000 cubic metres of water passes by every second. In many parts of the world, that is enough to supply all the needs of 100,000 people – the population of a large town – for a whole day. 5. The Mekong’s water nourishes large tracts of forest and wetlands, which produce building materials, medicines and food; provides habitats for thousands of species of plants and animals; and supports an inland capture fishery with an estimated commercial value of US$1.45 billion dollars per year.

Cruising the Mekong

A “slow boat” ride between Thailand and Laos is a popular way for many travellers to experience the Mekong, but the following recommended alternatives offer a far more comfortable ride.

In Laos and Thailand: Asian Oasis’ Luang Say cruise (www.asian-oasis.com) is a journey through remote stretches of the Mekong between the Northern Thai border (easily accessible from Chiang Mai) to the royal old city of Luang Prabang. Guests travel onboard a purpose-built luxury river barge and stay overnight in the traditional Lao-style Luang Say Lodge right on the shores of the Mekong river. If you want to remain based in Luang Prabang, consider hiring your own local boat for a few hours and enjoy floating at your own pace. Ask the boatman to show you a simple traditional village or take you to the pilgrimage site of Pak Ou to explore the two caves stuffed with Buddha statues of all shapes and sizes. In Cambodia: For a once-in-a-lifetime voyage, book a cabin onboard the Mekong Pandaw (www.pandaw.com) for a seven-night 750km cruise between the Mekong River Delta in Vietnam and Cambodia’s Siem Reap. The trip offers a practical and comfortable way to travel the region with side-trips by foot, cyclo (a motorcyle with a small, two-wheeled passenger compartment grafted on in place of the rear wheel) and speedboats which allow you to explore some of the more “off-the-beaten-track” sites. FOUR OTHER FABULOUS RIVER TRIPS IN ASIA

1 Chao Phraya, Thailand

The bustling Chao Phraya river is the principal artery running through Bangkok. Pleasure crafts whizz up and down all day long, weaving between heavy cargo traffic, while water taxis ferry people from one bank to the other. Cruising the klongs (canals) offers a fascinating backstreet glimpse of old Bangkok while providing the ideal mode of transport between some of the city’s top sights. How to: Chao Phraya Express Boats (www.chaophrayaboat. co.th) runs regular express boat services up and down the river, with departures every 15 minutes or so; while Mitchao Phraya Rungraung Co. Ltd (tel +66 (0)2 225-6179) operates river and canal sightseeing boats daily at Tha Chang Pier from 9am, from where longtail “taxi boats” can also be caught to the canals north of Bangkok. Manohra Cruises (www.manohracruises.com) offers both evening dining and overnight packages on a range of luxury converted rice barges.

2 Ayeyarwady, Myanmar

The Ayeyarwady (or Irrawaddy) flows for over 2,100km through the centre of Myanmar, providing the country with its commercial lifeline. The river starts in Kachin State up north and fills a nine-armed delta before emptying into the Indian Ocean down south. Its name is believed to have been derived from the Sanskrit term airavati (elephant river) but came to be known as the Road to Mandalay during colonial times. How to: The Road to Mandalay (www.orient-express.com) and Irrawaddy Flotilla Company (www.pandaw.com) both offer a variety of cruises in length and itinerary onboard luxurious paddle-steamers. Highly recommended is the one- or two-night journey between the fascinating city of Mandalay and the ancient temples of Bagan. There are also two public ferry services – an express and slow boat – between the two destinations. Tickets can be bought at the government-owned Inland Water Transport offices in

3 Li River, China

A trip along the Li River – or Lijiang River – from Guilin to Yangshuo, is the centrepiece of any trip to Guangxi Province in China. Dramatic scenery featuring stunning karst peaks makes it one of the region’s most picturesque destinations. Water buffalo patrol the fields, farmers reap rice paddies and fisherman float by on bamboo rafts. Highlights of the striking cliff formations include Elephant Trunk Hill, which resembles an elephant sucking water from the river with its long trunk. How to: A variety of local boats in Guilin operate a river service, but foreign visitors will tend to be steered towards the more pricey options. Ask your hotel in Guilin to recommend a cruise or use the state-owned China International Travel Service (www.guilin4seasons.com).

4 Singapore River, Singapore

Flowing through the centre of this city-state, the Singapore River is one of about 90 rivers in Singapore and its islands. The river mouth was the old Port Of Singapore, which became a centre of trade, commerce and finance during colonial times – and remains the most expensive and economically important piece of land. Popular sights include Cavenagh Bridge, one of the oldest in the country, and the exciting night-life at Clarke Quay. How to: Cruising down the Singapore River in a traditional bumboat, glass-top boat or open-top boat is the best way to see the legacy of Singapore’s history, with godowns (or warehouses), shophouses, colonial buildings and modern skyscrapers sitting side by side. Singapore River Cruise (www.rivercruise.com.sg) and Singapore Explorer (www.singaporeexplorer.com.sg/riverboat. htm) both offer a choice of cruise options and a water taxi service. After your boat ride, enjoy dinner or drinks at one of trendy Clarke Quay’s bars and restaurants.

LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE

One of the best ways for the more “hardy” traveller to see the natural wonders of the Mekong is from what is known as a “slow boat” – narrow, wooden vessels that are powered by tiny petrol engines and built with a shallow keel to avoid the river bottom. These rickety vessels regularly ply the route between the riverside villages of Northern Thailand and neighbouring Laos. The people onboard the long, slender crafts come from all walks of life. There are young children, farmers, fishermen and people linked to the growing tourist trade. Travellers try to hang on, wedged between backpacks and cargo, while the locals sit perfectly still and only move to mop up sweet chilli sauce with balls of sticky rice before popping them into their mouths. Sights change constantly with twisted tree trunks rising 40ft into jungle canopy; water buffalo moving cautiously to the edge for a drink; and granite mountains soaring up beyond the high banks. All float past at a snail’s pace with the high-pitched whirr of cicadas rising above the drone of the engine. As the narrow boats make their journey along the Mekong’s muddy water, villages loom into view and the soothing notes of mothers singing children to sleep with peaceful lullabies fill the air as the sun sets. Voices soon grow quiet and the only remaining sound discernable is of tiny waves lapping against the boat merged with the engine’s puttering as it follows the magnificent river’s course.