STIRLING SILLIPHANT EXPLORES THE BURGEONING MUSIC FESTIVAL SCENE OF THAILAND AND BEYOND

THE end of summer in Europe means different things for different people, but one thing is sure – from the Isle of Wight to the hills of Western Bohemia, it means bidding farewell to the continent’s celebrated music festival season.

As the circus of rock stars and revellers traipse away, leaving a trail of ripped T-shirts and empty bottles, so goes with them that undeniable sense that gathering with good friends and good music is among the most redemptive of human experiences.

For Bangkok Airways’ vacationers, a trip to Thailand in the autumn can herald a second lease of that sentiment. From Koh Samui’s white-powder shores to the busy metropolis of Bangkok, a slew of music festivals start up around this time of year and extend the fun long into the bitter European winter.

FESTIVAL FEVER

Thailand hosts an almost year-round calendar of spirited, high-quality music events showcasing not only established and up-and-coming international acts, but also top homegrown talent. What’s more, the geographical and cultural diversity of the country is mirrored in celebrations of music that maximise the country’s scenery and hospitality.

A case in point is the Koh Samui Music Festival, which attracts legends of popular music such as Jerry Lee Lewis, Ike Turner, Big Brother and the Holding Company, Canned Heat, The Wailers and UB40 to the southern Thai island each year.

Assembling such a roster of fine talent in sun-kissed Samui is no easy feat, but organisers Harry Bonning and Alan Sadd of Coco Blues had a vision for a major festival to promote the island and persevered in laying out the logistics.

These include, among many other things, arranging flights for more than 300 guests, sorting out accommodation, work visas and local transport for the talent.

Setting up a music festival in Asia poses various challenges. As Justin Sweeting, organiser of Hong Kong’s Rockit Festival, explains, “Asian festivals are challenged by the fact that it is that much more of a production effort to pull everything together compared to elsewhere. In Hong Kong, for example, we just can’t get our hands on certain equipment. The festival ethos doesn’t necessarily come naturally in a place that has never had one before.”

Building something out of nothing is a shared experience among festival organisers in Asia. The creators of Koh Samui Music Festival could not have imagined it would host UB40 and the likes when they first dreamed up the idea in their small blues bar on Chaweng Beach.

However, the founders were fortunate. “We had great support from the Thai authorities who bent over backwards to ensure everything went smoothly – from the police to immigration and the local authorities,” reveals Bonning.

THAI TIMES

As Thailand’s music scene snowballs into one of the most exciting in the region, international interest has piqued. This means more bands and performers – from household names such as Coldplay and Oasis to avant garde folksters like New York’s Animal Collective – are eager to take part.

The exchange works both ways too. “I just want people from other countries to know that Thailand also has rock ’n roll,” says Sek Loso, who put in an inaugural appearance for his country at the Glastonbury Festival and America’s South By Southwest festival last year.

Sek, perhaps Thailand’s most adored rock star, has succeeded in doing just that – and he is not alone.

Stronger than the connections forged at these creative events are inter-Asian ties. Singaporean musicians, in particular, have relished the growth of the Thai concert/festival circuit, as it gives them a chance to play outside their close-knit community.

“The music scene in Thailand is vibrant and seems supportive of its own acts [which is] encouraging to see,” says Victor Low, of Singapore’s The Observatory who has played at both the Pattaya International Music Festival and Fat Festival.

FUTURE FUN

Could Asia’s homegrown answers to the UK’s Glastonbury and Reading Festivals be sprouting in Thailand? Given its geographic diversity, easy-going people and Bangkok’s burgeoning cosmopolitanism, this is not such a far-fetched idea.

Thai festivals range in ambition and budget – from multi-billion baht events such as Bangkok 100 Rock to the more popular Fat Festival and heaving Pattaya International Music Festival.

A spectrum of genres also co-exist, ranging from the people’s favourites – folk and rock – to classical and jazz, aided by the fact that His Majesty The King of Thailand is an accomplished jazz musician himself.

One of the more interesting trends is the way such events –initially targeting foreign tourists – have now become very popular with Thais as well. This is a testament to the spontaneity and sanuk (a Thai term similar to the notion of joie-de-vivre) that makes Thailand so unique.

Rico Blanco, singer and guitarist for Rivermaya, the No. 1 band in The Philippines who makes regular headlines at the Pattaya International Music Festival agrees. “The people of Thailand are truly fantastic! They know how to have a good time; they appreciate music from all genres; and they’re open-minded and supportive of acts they see for the first time.”

Why not join in the fun too? Read on for a round up of the hottest annual events.

TUNE INTO THAILAND

Koh Samui Music Festival, 29 September to 8 October, Koh Samui
Like so many other music events around the region, this festival started small and grew with time. Last year, living legend Jerry Lee Lewis rocked the palm-fringed island, along with world-famous British reggae-pop outfit UB40 and local heroes Modern Dog, T-Bone and Fong Nam. Visit the website to find out the latest on this year’s exciting line-up. www.kohsamuimusicfestival.com

Bangkok International Festival of Dance and Music, 5 September to 7 October, Thai Cultural Centre, Bangkok
Bangkok’s biggest-budgeted music and performing arts affair is sponsored by the likes of American Express and sells premium seat tickets at Broadway prices.

The 800-strong cast includes singers, dancers, musicians, conductors and choreographers from around the globe. Opera-lovers shouldn’t miss the world premiere of Tosca, performed by Italy’s Ascoli Piceno Opera Theatre. www.bangkokfestivals.com

Fat Festival, 11-12 November, Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, Bangkok Fat Radio 104.5FM’s Fat Festival has been the catalyst of Thailand’s youth-oriented live music scene since 1999.

The annual two-day festival not only showcases both up-and-coming and established bands, but provides a forum for record labels, film-makers, magazines, homemade books, and other emerging artists to showcase their wares.

Having grown exponentially over the years, Fat Festival spawned the dek naew (“style kids”) trend, referring to expressive young Thais whose tastes veer towards “indie” fashion, film and music.

This year’s staging of the event at the massive concert hall IMPACT Arena means that a bombastic production is in the works, with over 200 bands expected to play over the two days. www.thisisclick.com

Pattaya International Music Festival, March, Pattaya Nua Beach
Emerging as one of the biggest music events in Southeast Asia, the Pattaya International Music Festival sees over 60 bands playing in front of crowds in the tens of thousands.

The more interesting acts tend to appear on the MTV “Orange Stage”, which is the spot where you can usually catch Thailand’s more cutting-edge talent playing alongside international acts. www.tourismthailand.org or www.mtvthailand.com

Bangkok 100 Rock, February/March, IMPACT Arena Muang Thong Thani
Last year, an enterprising Scottish promoter named Dave McLean helped raise 120 million baht in a bid to put Bangkok on the international music festival map. The resulting festival – Bangkok 100 Rock – was the first Southeast Asian music fest with an all-star line-up of “it” bands.

Oasis, Franz Ferdinand, former Stone Roses front man Ian Brown, Placebo (whom McLean manages), Stereophonics and Snow Patrol took to the stage, alongside half a dozen local openers. McLean promises that 2007 will be even bigger and better. www.bkk100rock.com

Fete de la Musique, June, Santichaiprakarn Park, Bangkok
Part of the month-long celebration of Gallic performing arts and culture known as La Fete, Fete de la Musique is a fun and free concert held at riverside Phra Athit Park.

A dozen bands or so play from dusk onwards and, while it is nothing compared to the size of the event in its native land, the festival is still a great opportunity to groove to some surfacing local bands, playing alongside guest bands from France. www.alliance-francaise.or.th

Hua Hin Jazz Festival, June, Hua Hin
Now in its fourth year, the Hua Hin Jazz Festival is one of those burgeoning events that have grown from being just a music festival to an annual happening attracting thousands of revellers and some top acts to the Thailand’s coastal resort.

If world-class musicians from around the globe performing on two beachfront stages and one stage in Hua Hin’s town centre isn’t enough, there’s also a classic car parade and an undeniable summer-on-the-Boardwalk type of vibe during this event. www.hiltonworldwide.com

FESTIVAL FUN – ELSEWHERE ON BANGKOK AIRWAYS ROUTE MAP

Rockit 2006, 14-15 October, Hong Kong

Started in 2003 by Matrix Entertainment Group, Rockit Festival was Hong Kong’s first outdoor marquee event for music and continues to attract a host of talent.

“The backdrop of buildings and skyline is unique,” says organiser Justin Sweeting. “It really is very beautiful, and every act we have comments on it. For the bands, going somewhere more exotic than the norm is a great strength for sure.” www.rockit-hk.com

Mosaic Music Festival, March, Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay, Singapore One of the newest international music festivals in the region is also one of the most interesting. Few festivals have succeeded so well in offering a truly diverse roster of musical genres without loosing their thread.

True to its name, Mosaic presents everything from jazz to pop, to ambient and electronic, to rock and experimental. Past headliners have included Pat Methany, Kings of Convenience and Tortoise. www.mosaicmusicfestival.com

Festa de Rama, August, Setoda, Hiroshima, Japan Fuji Rock Festival may be Japan’s biggest music festival, but the country also boasts some great gatherings that showcase the best of the Japanese music scene in a more intimate atmosphere.

In just two years, Festa de Rama – held in Setoda on the Seto Inland Sea island of Ikuchijima – has developed a reputation for hosting great bands in a fantastic beach location. www.rama.ne.jp