Charlie Winterman reveals how to make the most of 24 hours in Xi’an

PERHAPS the monument that epitomises Xi’an the most is the City Wall: enormous grey brick ramparts that symbolise both its pride, as much as its staunch defence against outsiders. It was during the Tang Dynasty when Xi’an – then known as Chang’an – was often the subject of distinguished Tang poets. Sensing the city’s geographical isolation as the last outpost before the barren western provinces, they wrote of lonely soldiers standing sentry in winter on those same ramparts, dreaming of lost loves in faraway provinces. Unlike the rest of China, Xi’an offers a face of China rarely seen: one where the nation’s past is as evident as its ubiquitous urge for modernity and small communities still exist within tree-filled city walls. There’s also a more intimate and accommodating attitude to foreigners. This could be due to the influence of The Silk Road which brought merchants from Europe, Central Asia and Mongolia to its heart, as well as the many Sunni Muslims from conquered countries to the far west. In the last five years, Xi’an has seen unprecedented change, including a new stash of unequalled tourist sites which have been either recently renovated or opened. Many of these attractions are some distance away and take more than a few days to fully appreciate. Visitors who want to make the most of 24 hours in Xi’an will need to prioritise – and plan to come back again!

6am-8am

Dawn is the moment when pensioners wander to the parks to enjoy the coolest time of the day and escape the noisy household. In a nation of over a billion people, space comes at a premium as many have to share their homes with two generations of siblings. After the customary bowl of spicy noodle soup – a Xi’an favourite, the folk start their exercise, slapping their hands on their chests or rotating their arms like clockwork dolls. At the North Gate, some wield swords or fans in a form of martial arts known as wu shu. Others practise ballroom dancing to classical music. In Geming Gongyuan (Revolutionary Park), the latest craze is for spinning and juggling wooden tops. This is Xi’an awakening.

8am-10am

Morning is the best time to venture onto the city wall on foot or by bike. Many favour the East Gate access, perhaps because it offers better views and a pretty courtyard. Just before the gate is a newly built antiques mall, easy to spot with its scarlet gables and old style. Heading north, the leafy backstreets are particularly enjoyable. Flag down a three-wheeler motorbike taxi and ask for a half hour tour of the area from East Street 1 to Street 5, peeping into homes and shops. Costing around 4 yuan per 1-2km, chefs preparing homemade noodles, steamed dumplings or griddle cakes will be among the many interesting sights. If you find yourself at the South Gate after your walk or bike ride on the wall, take a quick detour to see the fabric market on Wen Yi Street. Choose from a heap of printed cotton, then pick a polyester filling – in just 20 minutes, the army of seamstresses will have stitched up a self-designed duvet for around 150 yuan (US$18)!

10am-12pm

From South Gate, hop into a taxi and head north to the monolithic Provincial Government building at the heart of the city centre. This 1970s behemoth will soon be vacated and transformed into offices. Like many congested tourist cities, the local authorities will be moving to new accommodation outside the main centre. Only a few minutes away along Beixin Street is the old Renmin Da Sha (Xi’an People’s Hotel). A rare 1950s building that represents China’s former penchant for Soviet-styled architecture, it is part of a quiet courtyard called People’s Square. Today, faced with homogenous skyscrapers, historic buildings such as this one have become rare gems. Take a look around this quiet compound which is home to the slick new Sofitel and Grand Mercure hotels; at the rear are pretty gardens, while the front terrace is dominated by mellifluous fountains. History-buffs who want to see a glimpse of the Revolutionary yesteryear shouldn’t miss a visit to the nearby Eighth Route Army Memorial Museum (admission is free), only a five-minute walk away at Qixianzhuang, Beixin Street. Here, Zhou En Lai and other well-known Communist leaders stayed during the push to liberate China from the Japanese. The pretty courtyard is virtually unchanged even after 70 years. Inside the simple outhouses, visitors can see the spartan rooms and living quarters of men who would eventually lead one of the most powerful nations in the world. At the front, an old 1930s Chevrolet used by these dignitaries sits in a tiny garage.

12pm-2pm

From the Sofitel or the museum, head across to Bei Yuan Men Street, a few minutes’ taxi ride west, to tour the Muslim Quarter. At this hour, Muslim chefs will be busy cooking local fare as you amble down the main street. Lovers of Chinese classical and pop music can buy CDs in a small music shop to the right of the stone city gate that marks the start of this semi-pedestrianised area. Pick up green tea, dried fruits and fresh bread as you stroll, but watch out for pickpockets and take particular care of your camera. A string of red lanterns marks the entrance of House Number 144, a stunning courtyard home built in the Ming and Qing dynasties. Now a museum (entrance fee costs 12 yuan), fans of traditional Chinese architecture will delight in the details of this unique building and exquisite furnishings. It is also a nice break away from the seething streets. Also consider returning in the evening – the doors close at 11.30pm and staff will make a note on your ticket so you don’t have to pay twice. Late at night, the house becomes a spectacular scene lit throughout by red silk lanterns. But now, it’s time to get some lunch. The Old An Green Noodle is a popular local eatery right at the entrance gate, or nibble on dried fruit or rou jia mo (stuffed flatbread) as you go.

2pm-5pm

At the end of the street is the old Drum Tower but before you reach here, look out for Hua Jue alley on the right, signposted to the Great Mosque (Qing Zhen Si). This is a historic mosque built in 742 AD, unusually, in the style of a Chinese courtyard. The lane is crammed full of bric-a-brac and souvenir-sellers. Pick up gifts from the cheerful old Mr Yang at number 2, or oil paintings from Mr Hai at number 18; both speak fair English and have been there for years. Professor Ding’s shop at number 15 is en route; he is a well known wood-cut artist who first become famous for his peasant paintings in the 1970s. As the friendlier merchants will affirm, no real antiques exist anymore, so do not be taken in by any of the very well-made fakes on display – and bargain furiously! Down this alley, there are a few courtyard homes hidden behind the stalls, some over 200 years old, as well as the superb Great Mosque – well worth a wander. If you have an afternoon to spare, hire a taxi or hotel limousine for around 180-300 yuan and take a 45-minute ride to see the amazing imperial tomb called Han Yang Ling (entrance fee costs 90 yuan). The new site is just 2km from an older museum and is completely underground. Inside, glass walkways allow visitors to peer down into the earth to view battalions of metre-tall terracotta warriors, animals and artefacts in situ. This must certainly rate as one of China’s best new sites. If you are interested in history but do not have so much time, visit the city’s Shaanxi Provincial History Museum (entrance fee costs 35 yuan), one kilometre northwest of the Great Goose Pagoda on Yan Ta Road, and see priceless objects from China’s past.

5pm-6.30pm

As the sun loses its heat, it’s a good time to climb up the Bell Tower from where views of modern Xi’an are all around. In summertime (April to October), the place closes at 9.30pm and is nicely illuminated. If you didn’t make it up onto the City Wall this morning, this is also a good time to scale the ramparts and watch the metropolis descend into a rush hour mêlée of buses, bicycles, scooters and cars.

6.30pm-8pm

It’s time for dinner now. If you fancy a street-side supper, head back through the Drum Tower archway into Bei Yuan Men Street to dine on the traditional roast lamb or soaked bread and noodles in lamb broth at any of the Halal diners. For those looking for something a bit less noisy and much more sophisticated, the upscale Le Chinois restaurant at the Sofitel has added Xi’an favourites such as steamed dumplings (jiaozi) or steamed buns (xiao long bao) to their impressive Cantonese menu. While the restaurant may be contemporary, the 1950s building in which it stands once welcomed dignitaries such as the Dalai Lama and Henry Kissinger.

8pm-11.30pm

Expect a host of entertainment during the evening in Xi’an. The most spectacular of all must be the free water concert held each night at 8.30pm next to the Great Goose Pagoda, where a forest of huge dancing fountains bounce in tune to anything from Bizet’s Carmen to, yes, Handel’s Water Music. Get there early to avoid the crowds and try to stand upwind to avoid getting wet! The Tang Dynasty Paradise is a highly popular evening show with the Chinese visitors. Although the entrance fee may seem expensive at 100 yuan per person, the ticket includes entry to a Disney-esque Tang Dynasty theme park of traditional dance extravaganzas, culminating with spectacular fireworks that both young and old are sure to enjoy. Alternatively, mingle with the crowds at the night food market off Bei Yuan Men Street, or the dried fruit night markets next to the Drum Tower. Walking around the brightly illuminated building, you will arrive at the vast Gulou Guangchang (Drum Tower Square) where a horde of people tug at 200m strings of kites and huge white telescopes sit mounted on bicycle carts. For five yuan, take your turn to stare at the stars.

11.30pm–dawn

The city quietens down considerably after 11.30pm, but night owls may want to hit a club or bar in the city. Near the University, there are local clubs playing Chinese techno, or in town, Havana at the Sofitel rates as the hottest place to go grooving. Their live Colombian band plays Latin numbers until late. Most head home by 2am to prepare for an early start.

Visitors are quick to notice Xi’an’s unique charms and magnificent sites that showcase the nation’s rise from early Imperial times – through the Revolutionary struggles to the modern day. Xi’an is not just a city for tourists, but a vast treasure house whose historic riches exemplify the rising power of the Chinese people as well as the making of a nation.