TAKE A TOUR OF DISCOVERY AND VISIT ONE OF THESE FIVE LESS-VISITED TEMPLES, RECOMMENDS ROB SAVAGE

ANGKOR WAT – the magical ruins of the seat of an Angkorian empire that stretched from modern-day Vietnam in the east to the shores of the Bay of Bengal in the west – has put Cambodia firmly back on the world traveller’s map. A UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of humankind’s greatest architectural achievements, it proves an irresistible lure to over one million visitors a year. But while Angkor Wat and the neighbouring Bayon and Angkor Thom will always remain at the top of any visitor’s itinerary, there is a lot more to see. Cambodia is a nation of temples, with at least 1,200 of them scattered across the country. Yet, visitors still rarely venture further than the National Park. Art historian and author of Images of the Gods, Professor Vittorio Roveda has studied Southeast Asia’s temples over the last decade and believes it is time that this changed. “People only come to Cambodia for a few days; they see the major temples of the Grand Circuit and don’t get to see those outside of the park.” This is a real shame, as there is so much more to discover. With the security concerns of the last decade firmly in the past and the country’s infrastructure improving all the time, it is no longer necessary to be an experienced dirt-biker or foolhardy thrill-seeker to reach some of these lesser-known sites. Just come armed with some of that explorer spirit, a few extra days and a little knowledge. By getting away from the hotspots and tour groups, a visit to the temples and the communities that dwell within their shadows will soon become a journey of discovery. Have no fear if you don’t want to travel too far so that you can also explore other hidden gems within Siem Reap and the National Park itself.Nor will you need a doctorate in Sanskrit or Khmer to gain a deeper insight into the history of Angkor. While it’s true that most of what is known about the temples is derived from Sanskrit and Khmer steles found at the sites, Professor Roveda asserts that their importance is sometimes overplayed. Inscriptions often simply list inventories of slaves’ names, temple produce as well as supplies, and “few are really instructive”. Professor Roveda posits that the study of the evolution of artistic styles can be just as illuminating and a far more accessible source of information for the casual visitor. He believes that the development of visual narrative in the carvings which adorn the temples, together with traditional archaeological methods, allows for the verification of the broad timescales provided by the epigraphy. The concept is a simple one to grasp; as artistic styles developed over the Angkorian period, so did the complexity of the stories depicted within the temples’ bas-reliefs. In Roveda’s words, the style “matured”, moving from simple decoration to the recounting of the tales of the Reamker, Ramayana and Mahabharata. So, by preparing yourself with a little background understanding of mythological figures as well as the tales depicted in these mysterious and exotic reliefs, a visit to one of Cambodia’s less-visited temples begins to take on a personalised sense of discovery. From Prasat Einkosei in Siem Reap to the rarely visited former Angkorian capital of Koh Ker, escape the crowds and turn your visit into an adventure by adding one of the following temples to your itinerary.

PRASAT EINKOSEI Prasat Einkosei sits on the fringes of the centre of Siem Reap and does not require a park ticket or even a day’s travel to visit. On the grounds of a modern wat (pagoda) of the same name, this 10th Century temple features examples of some unusual lintel carving – see the imbalanced version of the Churning of the Sea of Milk. It is also a perfect example of how many of Cambodia’s temples remain as much at the heart of the Khmer community as they always have. This is a place where visitors can relax in the shade of frangipani trees as monks’ robes dry in the breeze and children recite their classes in the nearby school. The early 20th Century pagoda that backs onto these early brick temples contains some beautiful murals, which highlight how the French artistic traditions have influenced Khmer temple art during the colonial period. Worth viewing is Queen Mayadevi’s (the mother of Buddha) dream of the white elephant and the conception of Siddhartha. BANTEAY SAMRE Three kilometres off the Grand Circuit, yet still in the National Park, Banteay Samre stands on the banks of the now dry eastern baray and the ancient Angkorian road to Beng Melea. The scenic journey to the temple cuts through the local villages and rice paddies that dot the area.

Losing visitors to its more well-known neighbour, Banteay Srei, Banteay Samre is a peaceful place to visit. What is more, the site is currently at the centre of some controversy, with Professor Roveda asserting that there is evidence that the temple is actually younger than previously believed. He claims that the central presence of Buddhist reliefs, alongside the traditional Hindu-inspired images, suggest the temple was, in fact, a precursor to the open Buddhism of Jayavarman VII, and may have been built by his father Dharanindravarman II.

BAKONG Just 15km from Siem Reap, Bakong is part of the Roluos group of temples that made up the first Khmer capital of Hariharalaya. Bakong itself was completed after the return of the capital from Koh Ker and is a striking example of the “temple mountains” that predate Angkor Wat. Now in the modern village of Roluos, the temple is situated within the confines of a picturesque moat and forest clearing at the centre of a Khmer community. Worshippers can always be found in the early morning, as the lives of the local neighbourhood revolves around the temple and its beautiful early 20th Century Pagoda. Professor Roveda highlights the structure’s verandah, which is decorated with Buddhist murals that are in the important process of being preserved. “These murals are in a perilous state. We are in the process of organising funding to extend the conservation work that is being undertaken by the German Apsara Conservation Project,” he says. This work is essential in protecting such less-visited temples so that future generations will also be able to come and marvel at their magic.

BENG MELEA About 60km from Siem Reap, Beng Melea’s location still sees it described as “remote” and “in the jungle”. In reality, with two roads to the site, Beng Melea is only a two-hour drive from Siem Reap. The fastest route is along the new road from the village of Dam Dak on National Highway 6. Another more time-consuming but worthwhile option is to take the road from Banteay Srei that runs the length of the plain beneath the Kulen Mountain. Larger than Angkor Wat and straddling an important junction of the original Angkorian roads, Beng Melea is overrun by jungle vegetation, and lichen-covered lintel carvings litter the ground. With its collapsed central tower and moody galleries, the subterranean air makes Beng Melea an even more impressive site for most visitors than the popular Ta Prohm.

KOH KER About 130km of new road link Siem Reap with Koh Ker, enabling it to be visited as part of a long day trip.

The temple’s previous isolation from the outside world means that very little study of the site has been made since 1939 and there is every chance that you will find yourself the sole visitor. The shrines here contain some of the best-preserved examples of linga outside of Cambodia’s museums. Professor Roveda highlights the style differences. “As a capital, the lingas were very important and they have an anatomical style that the usual square-based examples do not have.” Koh Ker was established by the usurper Jayavarman IV and became the capital of the Angkorian Empire under his rule for about 23 years. In this period, some 30 major sites were built, with many more scattered throughout the jungle. At the centre of the Koh Ker complex lies Prasat Thom, a 40m-high pyramid of seven tiers. Climbing the wooden steps to the top rewards the visitor with a magical view over the surrounding countryside. The original wooden roof and the 24-ton linga that it once housed are now both long gone. However, the inscription reading “Luck! Success! Happiness! Victory!” remains as a legacy of the work of the 400 men and elephants that it would have taken to raise it to the summit.

EXPERT INSIGHT Vittorio Roveda’s Images of the Gods lives up to the publisher’s description of the book as an “encyclopaedic survey of the mythology and motifs of Khmer art”. A study of the art at almost 200 Khmer temples across Cambodia, Thailand and Laos, it is also a guidebook to their construction and mythology. Featuring over 2,800 illustrative images and accompanied by a DVD, Images of the Gods offers the reader a unique insight into the temples’ carved decorations and their maturing styles over the Angkorian period. The early chapters also provide information on key deities such as Vishnu, Brahma, Shiva and Buddha, along with the tales of Khmer and Hindu mythology.

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