MIKEY LEUNG VISITS CHINA’S SHAOLIN TEMPLE TO EXPLORE ITS ANCIENT TRADITION OF KUNG FU
EIGHT-year-old Shi Xin Long (“New Dragon” in Chinese) is up well before sunrise on this misty March morning. At 5.30am, the dawn light peers through the dorm windows.
By 5.45am, Xin Long and hundreds of other students are on the grounds of the Wanzi Valley Kung Fu School, warming up by running, jumping and punching the air.
For the young dragon, it is the fi rst hour in a monster day: six hours of strenuous kung fu training interspersed with fi ve hours of classroom time.
Xin Long is a 21st century Shaolin monk warrior, the modern incarnation of a tradition that is centuries old. Its history runs deep in Chinese culture, the stuff of legends that has fi lled novels, TV dramas and, today, commands its own following in kung fu schools and on movie screens.
ORIGINS OF SHAOLIN
Fact and fi ction blend together when discussing the origins of the Shaolin Temple, located 80km west of China’s geographical centre – Zhengzhou.
The area is now a major industrial and transport hub, yet it remains rich with the myths of yesteryear.
One soon discovers that the Songshan mountains of Henan province hold what must be China’s most famous cultural export: Shaolin kung fu (pronounced “gong fu” in Chinese).
One particular legend, as told by temple monks, seizes the imagination. the year was 495 AD. A travelling Indian preacher named Batuo was climbing the Songshan’s slopes when a big thunderstorm fell upon him, during which he had a vision of a holy temple rising from the clouds at the foot of the mountains below.
His vision was incredible: seven majestic courtyards and their associated halls are aligned in perfect harmony, shaded by aged cypress trees and hardy pine trees. On the fi rst hall hung a plaque reading “Shaolin Si”.
It was then that Batuo realised the sacredness of the vision and began to build a temple devoted to Buddha’s greatness, with the blessing of the emperor then.
Soon a7 er, another Indian monk, Da Mo arrived and is largely credited with bringing martial arts to the temple. At fi rst, Da Mo’s teachings and practices were not accepted, but legend has it that he meditated for nine years in a cave close by, where he reportedly sat for such long periods – in the same position and location – that his shadow became etched on the nearby wall.
As Da Mo took exercise as relief from his internal refl ections, he created several fi ghting forms that were to become the basis of Shaolin kung fu – techniques that our young dragon practices this very day.
VISITING SHAOLIN
For those interested in making the trip to Shaolin from Zhengzhou, there are two ways to go. Catch a bumpy public bus from the city’s main bus station (located across from the train station, cost is 25 yuan and takes approximately two hours). The other option is to take a private tour arranged through an international hotel’s concierge desk (800 yuan for private car and 300 yuan for private guide).
Where to Stay
Two Zhengzhou accommodation options for the discerning traveller include the Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza (115 Jin Shui Road, tel +86
(0)371 6599-0770, www.ichotelsgroup. com) and the Sofi tel Hotel (289 Cheng Dong Road, tel +86 (0)371 6595-0088, www.accorhotels-asia.com). Turn to the Destination Guide on page 136 for ideas on what to do in Zhengzhou.
MARTIAL ARTS IN ASIA
Judo: A form of martial arts that does not use punching or kicking to win a match, but instead, employs throws, strangleholds or joint locks to win a match.
Karate: Karate means “empty hand” in Japanese, and employs kicks and punches to overcome opponents.
Kendo: A martial art relic of Japan. Protective face, chest and body armour and wooden swords are used in combat instead of the deadly samurai blades of times long past.
Muay thai: A popular ring sport in ! ailand where combatants use kicks, punches, elbows and grappling holds to subdue opponents. Very much the pride of ! ailand, matches can be seen on television every night of the week or live in most major cities.
Sanda: A style of kung fu using kicks, punches and throws. It was created to align Chinese martial arts with the other boxing arts of the world.
Southern Style Kung Fu: Sometimes known as “Southern Shaolin Kung Fu.” Due to a difference in body types among Southern Chinese, the style focuses on kicks and strong hand techniques, whereas the Northern Style lends well to acrobatics.
Sumo: A national sport in Japan in which the goal is to throw the opponent out of a 4.55m circular ring or force any part of his (or her) body to make contact with the mat.
Tai Chi Chuan: A slower, more graceful form of exercise practiced by older generations in parks and public squares in China. Focusing on the development and control of chi, or energy, tai chi is the most meditative with the lowest impact in the martial arts family.
EVOLUTION IN CHINA
Within a century of the temple’s founding, its warriors’ fi ghting skills had attained legendary status across China, and the travelling monks from Shaolin were busy spreading their teachings to neighbouring Asian countries.
They honed their fi ghting skills and incorporated aspects of Chinese culture into their lessons through the generations.
Alongside perfecting their physical performance, trainees also took up study of Buddhism, Chinese medicine and morality. They had realised their potential for deadly force and soon evolved the means to control it.
As dynasties rose and fell, the temple’s warriors became famous for their heroic deeds in times of need. During the Tang dynasty (618-970), China was at its height: nearby Xi’an was becoming the largest city in the world, profi ting immensely from its location at the start of ! e Silk Road.
In order to maintain stability, Shaolin was often called on to aid the emperor in quelling rebellions. Legend has it that the monks’ skills were so evolved that a force of a few hundred could dispose of thousands.
Shaolin kung fu also experienced a sort of renaissance during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1744), under which several new styles and variations of kung fu evolved.
This was not to last, however, and the advent of the 20th century spelled the end of the warriors’ dominance. China was suffering under the extraordinary weight of civil war and colonial pressure, and the art of Shaolin could not withstand the bullets and artillery of modern warfare.
TAKING LESSONS
BEIJING
Offers a slice of cosmopolitan Beijing city life in addition to rigorous training – come here if you want to learn with relative comfort and stability.
Beijing University of Physical Education e school of world-famous kung fu actor, Jet Li. Teaches Tai Chi Chuan, Chang Quan and weapons training. Foreign Student Office, Yuan Min Yuan East Road, Haidian District, tel +86
(0)10 6298-9341/9391, www.bupe.edu.cn
Beijing Milun School of Traditional Kung Fu A new school offering recreational classes in Tai Chi Chuan, Shaolin Style Kung Fu and other styles.
No. 33, Xitangzi Hutong, Dongcheng District, tel +86 (0)139 1081-1934, www.kungfuinchina.com
World Link Education
A Beijing-based education institution offering combination martial arts and Chinese language courses to students from abroad.
Jian Wai SOHO A-503, 39 Dong San Huan Zhong Lu, tel +86 (0)10 5869-5425/6/7/8, www.worldlinkedu.com
SHAOLIN
The place to go for kung fu purists, but do choose your school carefully. Expect very basic living conditions, but more genuine physical and mental training.
Shaolin Temple Wushu Guan
is kung fu school nearest to Shaolin Temple offers classes in English with modest accommodation.
Shaolin Temple, Dengfeng, tel +86 (0)371 6730-8806, email guoyinhe509@sohu.com
Songshan Shaolin Temple Xiao Long Kung Fu Training Centre A Zhengzhou option that comes highly recommended from hardcore learners. Guan Cheng Pu Tian, Zhengzhou, tel +86 (0)371 6792-3088, www.shaolink. .com
GUILIN (YANGSHUO)
Budizhen Kung Fu School A southern option for kung fu tuition set in the beautiful town of Yangshuo. 62 Lotus Lane, tel + 86 (0)773 882-2695, mob +86 (0)1397 735-0377
EVOLUTION IN THE WORLD
The advent of the People’s Republic of China spelled a new era for the temple and, in the early 1980s, kung fu found a different way to achieve world popularity. It came in the form of kung fu artist, Jet Li. His fi rst fi lm, Shaolin Temple, became an instant hit in China and abroad, and with the help of promotion from the local tourist industry, Shaolin kung fu would become one of China’s greatest cultural exports.
Today, nearly “everybody is kung fu fi ghting” (as the pop song goes), and the Shaolin Temple has become an incredibly popular destination for tourists and students from around the world.
A visit means paying tribute to China’s ancient warrior history, while viewing the current renovations to the magnifi cent frescoed walls means experiencing Shaolin’s potential future. ousands of students like Xin Long can be seen practising in the nearby fi elds, with dozens of schools lining the surrounding mountain valleys.
Many say the original spirit of kung fu is long gone, but others claim that the Shaolin Temple™ – now a registered trademark – is merely modernising like everything else in China, as it must in order to survive. e commercially minded abbot plans to host a version of “kung fu idol” later this year. Imagine thousands of young dragons competing to become kung fu’s next potential star.
While Shaolin’s next battle is not so much for survival as it is commercial, it is clear that this is not the fi rst contest to ravage the temple walls nor will it be the last.
