PHOTOGRAPHER JOHN MCDERMOTT CAPTURES THE SACRED SPIRIT OF SHWEDAGON PAGODA IN A SERIES OF INFRA-RED IMAGES

FEW places in the world are as compelling as Myanmar, sprawling across a huge portion of South-East Asia from the deep tropics in the south to the snow-covered peaks of the Himalayas in the north, yet its culture and beauty remain relatively unknown, even within the region.

Myanmar’s astounding cultural diversity includes influences from the surrounding countries of India, Thailand, Nepal, and China, and over 100 distinct ethnic groups within its borders. It is a land of magical landscapes and mystical sites.

None of these are more magnificent than Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon. Many cities and countries of the world have monuments that define them – the Eiff el Tower in Paris, the Forbidden City in Beijing, the temple of Angkor Wat in Cambodia. In Myanmar, it is Shwedagon, the spiritual and religious heart of the country.

The golden stupa (opening page): The central stupa, or zedi, is 98m tall and completely covered in gold leaf. Topped off with a diamond orb, it is said to house a hair of the Buddha. The brilliance of the gleaming golden dome is enhanced by the dozens of smaller stupas, shrines, temples and pavilions that fill the terrace platform and give visitors the impression of being in a magical wonderland.

Circle of children : Although Shwedagon is primarily a religious site, it also functions as a sort of public gathering place. It has a park-like atmosphere that attracts groups of families and
friends, many of whom may have travelled from far outside the city to see the shrine.

” It is a pause in time that makes no distinction
between past, present or future ”

Covering over five hectares in the middle of Yangon, the Shwedagon Paya complex is one of the largest monuments to Buddhism in the world. The central golden stupa stands almost 100m tall and is visited by hundreds of pilgrims and visitors each day, who come to stroll around the marble terrace and the multitude of shrines and pavilions that surround it.

Like the grand cathedrals of Europe, the Pagoda is both a place of religious contemplation and an architectural marvel. For many, it is simply a place where family and friends gather for an outing and relish the atmosphere of peace and harmony.

Shwedagon is a hive of activity, especially in the morning when the marble terrace is still cool under the bare feet of its visitors. Incense is burned, water is poured in blessings, fortunes are told and monks chant their prayers.

Sunset over Kandawgyi :The giant stupa is visible from almost anywhere in the central area of the city. Arguably, the best view is across the waters of Lake Kandawgyi. Looking west right after sunset, the golden dome gleams brightly against the twilight sky.

Southern walkway (above): Shwedagon sits on a large platform atop a hill near the centre of the city. There are four elaborately designed covered walkways leading up the hill, one from each of the points of the compass. The southern walkway is traditionally regarded as the main entrance. Inside, the walkway is lined with dozens of shops and vendors selling flowers, amulets, Buddha images, antiques and other souvenirs.

On any one day, you might encounter a bewildering variety of people: worshippers meditating under the harsh rays of the hot sun, a festive parade for the religious initiation of a young novice, elderly pilgrims from the provinces, yogis off ering advice, and briefcase-bearing businessmen clad in longyis (the sarong-like skirts worn by local men).

Light and colour sparkles from every surface: it glows from the marble and gleams along the delicate filigree edging the diff erent shrines, and the vast golden presence of the central stupa overpowers the sun against a blue tropical sky. It is a pause in time that makes no distinction between past, present or future – only a study in light, harmony and beauty.

Under cover : The traditional umbrellas carried by the monks serve a practical purpose by shielding them from the hot tropical sun – and add a lovely aesthetic element to the visual landscape.

Prayer room buddhas : Spread out around the perimeter of the marble terrace are any number of smaller stupas, shrines, temples, and pavilions, many of which house Buddha images and serve as more intimate prayer rooms.

Need to know | Yangon

YANGON, formerly known as Rangoon, is a page out of time. Although the city’s population has grown to 4 million souls, much of the charm of its colonial heritage remains. Fine examples of Victorian architecture can be seen all around, and the wide streets are lined with stately trees planted early in the 19th century.

Bustling sidewalk markets and tea shops exist throughout the centre, where trishaws and colourful 60-year-old buses trundle along the roads. Yangon spreads out into leafy green suburbs, and the gleaming Schwedagon Pagoda towers over it all.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: November to February off ers the finest weather – not too hot or wet.

CITY HIGHLIGHTS: There is plenty to see besides Shwedagon. Jump into a trishaw and ask the driver to take you around for an hour or two. In particular, head for the docks to see life on the river. As museums go, the National Museum ranks high.

One of the most fascinating options is to have high tea at the stately old Strand Hotel. Waiters in crisp white uniforms serve pastries and dainty sandwiches in much the same way as they did a century ago.

WHERE TO STAY: The best hotels.
Strand Hotel: The grand dame of all Yangon hostelries, beside the river. 92 Strand Road, tel +95 1 243377, www.ghmhotels.com/default.asp The Governor’s Residence: Luxury combines with lovely architecture in this Orient Express Hotel. 35 Taw Win Road, tel +95 1 229860, www.orient-express.com

The Kandawgyi Palace Hotel: Built in massive colonial style and boasting commanding views of the Royal Lake. Kan Yeiktha Street, tel +95 1 249255, www.kandawgyipalace.com The Savoy: Yangon’s finest boutique hotel, with views of the Schwedagon Pagoda. 129 Dhammazedi Road, tel +95 1 526289, www.savoy-myanmar.com

WHERE TO EAT: If you are addicted to Western fast food, you will probably go hungry. Th ose who are looking for international-standard restaurants, on the other hand, will not be disappointed.

Le Planteur: This eatery is located in an old colonial-style house and serves “Indocuisine”, the best of the West combined with Asian flavours. 16 Sawmahar Street, tel +95 1 549389 Green Elephant: One of Yangon’s most popular Burmese-Chinese restaurants, with two storeys of covered open-air dining. 519(A) Pyay Road, Th iri Mingalar Lane, tel +95 1 535231 Sandy’s: Dine on Myanmar cuisine while admiring the stunning view onto the Royal Lake. Kanyeiktha Road, tel +95 1 382918 Manis: A new restaurant in an old Dutch colonial-style building wiTheclectic Euro-Indonesian and Burmese-Chinese menus. 1 Inya Road, tel +95 1 527506 50th Street Bar & Grill: From the owners of Phnom Penh’s Foreign Correspondents Club, 50th Street is filled with classic pub grub and furnishings. Great pizzas and burgers plus Burmese and European fare. 9/13 50th Street, tel +95 1 298096

ONWARD JOURNEY: Yangon is the gateway to Myanmar. A tour of the country should include visits to Bagan and Mandalay, but also a side-trip to Inle Lake.

With thousands of ancient temples, Bagan vies with Angkor Wat as the most important place to visit in South-East Asia. Mandalay, Myanmar’s second-largest city, is home to some of the country’s most spectacular historic treasures, plus the nearby wonders of Amarapura and Mingun.

Inle Lake, in the exotic Shan states, is ringed with villages and pagodas. Besides the pageantry of many local festivals and floating gardens, the lake boasts some of the best handicraft shopping in the country.

NEED TO KNOW: You will need a visa to enter Myanmar. This can be obtained at your local Myanmar embassy or can usually be issued overnight in Bangkok. Some tour companies can arrange for a visa on arrival. Two weeks’ advance notice is required.

Credit cards are rarely accepted. Bring plenty of cash to pay for all incidentals.

Information about Foreign Exchange Certificates (FECs) in most travel guidebooks is obsolete, and you should not be asked to exchange cash for FECs at the airport. If you find yourself with unused FECs, remember that they are fully refundable on departure.

Foreign currency exchange rates vary, wiThairport exchange counters off ering the worst. Ask a reputable tour guide to advise you on where to obtain the best rates.

Myanmar is a Buddhist country. Wear conservative clothing when visiting temples and deposit your shoes at the entrance. Pointing with your feet, touching someone’s head or raising your voice are considered very bad manners. g

Compiled by Douglas Thompson, managing director of Purple Dragon and Tamarind Tours. For further details about their range of tours to Myanmar and the region, visit www.purpledrag.com and www.tamarindtours.com