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The Life Aquatic
JAMES WALLMAN REVEALS A FEW OF THE TOP WATER-BASED WAYS TO MAKE THE MOST OF KOH SAMUI AND PHUKET
THE crystal clear waters surrounding Koh Samui and Phuket are unquestionably one of the major draws for visitors to Thailand’s most popular islands, yet some holidaymakers do little more than dip their toe in the sparkling seas. Now is the time to take the plunge and do something different. There’s game fishing or kite surfing for the adrenaline junkies, while marine spa treatments and catamaran sailing might appeal to those who prefer a slightly more laid-back experience. And for those who are not so keen on sea-based sports, elephant trekking through thick jungle and swimming in waterfalls are sure to thrill instead.
WHALE OF A TIME
There are three things that make people want to dive with a Rhincodon typus – or whale shark, as it’s more commonly known. Firstly, it’s a shark – a species that fascinates most of the human race. Secondly, it’s the world’s largest known fish, growing up to 15m in length and weighing up to 15 tonnes. Th irdly – and sport 
fishing in Phuket is
among the best
in the world. perhaps most importantly – it doesn’t bite, preferring plankton and small fish to anything that a human being might resemble. Divers report being simply mesmerised by the sight of this graceful giant gliding through the water. February to May is whale shark season, particularly at dive sites around Richelieu Rock and Hin Daeng near the Surin Islands in the Andaman Sea and near the Chumphon Peninsula in the Gulf of Thailand. Don’t worry if you don’t spot the star of the show; waiting in the wings will be leopard sharks, turtles and manta rays.
Tel +66 (0)76 420632, www.siamadventuredivers.com
CATCH OF THE DAY
Tackle up and cast off into one of the world’s best – and least discovered – game fishing seas. With the sport still in its infancy and the migratory paths of many deepwater fighting fish passing through nearby seas, Phuket is a firm fisherman’s friend. Light-tackle fish such as barracuda, queen fish and mangrove jack lurk in mangrove estuaries and shallow reefs; the big fighting fish are found further out. Yellow-fin tuna and wahoo are bountiful at the Drop Off , a continental shelf 40km off the coast, while the nearby Simian and Andaman Islands are South-East Asia’s newly discovered marlin hot spot. Other fighters frequently found near Phuket include broadbill swordfish, sailfish and monster dogtooth tuna.
Tel +66 (0)18 933650 or +66 (0)76 420606, www.bluewater-anglers.com
KITE CAPERS
In Thailand, kite surfers head to the south-west of the islands to chase the predictable side and onshore north-east winds at Chalong, Rawai or Laem Ka beaches in Phuket, and Lamai beach on Samui. At Lamai’s kite surf centre, an outer reef creates a natural barrier against waves which ensures that the waist-deep water remains flat; the bottom is soft sand, too. Both of these facts are good news for beginners. The more experienced make the most of the smooth water inside the reef to try out new tricks, before heading outside to play on the waves. Book a course with Kiteboarding Asia, whose schools are certified by the IKO (International Kiteboarding Organization) – which is to kite surfing what PADI is to diving.
Tel +66 (0)15 914592 (Samui) or +66 (0)15 914594 (Phuket), www.kiteboardingasia.com
SKY HIGH
Take time out of your day to gain some perspective on life and book yourself a parasail ride. Rather like a parachute jump in reverse, you are harnessed to a parachute before being gently released into the air from the back of a speed boat and remain attached for the duration of the ride. The silence is golden and the views of the crystal clear seas, palm trees and other holidaymakers far below are spectacular. Available all day from Patong and Surin beaches on Phuket, and Lamai and Chaweng beaches on Samui.
KARST AWAY
Discover a side of Thailand untouched and unseen by man for centuries – take a kayak trip with a caveman along the Phuket coastline. A combination of “no reason to go”, fear of now-extinct saltwater crocodiles and superstition had kept the locals away for hundreds of years, but in 1989, eco-award-winning John “Caveman” Gray boldly went where no Thai or tourist dared to go. Today, Gray and his team take groups out on guided tours in open-top canoes, paddling past pythons and water monitor lizards into the limestone karst towers around Phuket. Many are honeycombed with caves and tunnels, while at the centre of some lie picturesque hongs (lagoons). At nightfall, the kayaks return to these hongs with the way lit only by stars and fireflies.
Tel +66 (0)76 254505, www.johngray-seacanoe.com
TRUNK CALL
You don’t have to head to Northern Thailand for elephant trekking. Book a place on a trunk-nosed steed in southern Samui for a thrilling ride to the second tier of Na Muang waterfalls. After the trip through the island’s lush jungle, you’ll be glad of a dip and a 
shower beneath the 30m-tall lower tier of the purple-stoned falls (muang means “purple” in Thai).
Tel +66 (0)26 262000, www.asiantrails.org
SAIL AWAY
Over the last 20 years, the maritime playground of the Andaman Sea has become an established yachting Mecca, regularly hosting events such as the King’s Cup Regatta, Asia’s largest annual sailing event – yet the coastline remains relatively undeveloped and deserted. There are only a few modern marinas – including Yacht Haven and Boat Lagoon Marinas – on Phuket, compared to crowd-filled dozens around the Caribbean. Old-style junks might look pretty as a picture, but catamarans are the boat of choice here. Their shallow draft allows better access to more places and their wide decks are perfect for spreading out in the sun. Charter your own boat or pay someone else to take the helm during the prime sailing season of November to May.
Thai Marine, tel +66 (0)76 239111, www.thaimarine.com
Sunsail, tel +66 (0)76 239057, www.sunsailthailand.com
THE FAR SIDE
Explore parts of Phuket other tour boats can’t reach in a flat-bottomed river cruiser. Needing less than one foot of water to float, these boats enable those on board to journey deeper into the mangrove creeks and get much closer to the wildlife. More than 200 bird species live or pass through here, including the green and yellow mangrove pitta and the chestnut and white brahminy kite. At low tide, mudskippers hop about in a fishy impression of people on crutches. At high tide, macaque monkeys dive from the trees into the water to swim.
Tel +66 (0)98 758691, www.riverrovers.com
PARK LIFE Park
life is rather different around Koh Samui. But then how many parks in the world are made up of 42 islands of limestone massifs and rainforests surrounded by turquoise sea? Welcome to Ang Th ong National Marine Park, easily accessed by boat on a short day trip – and made famous by the hit movie and book, The Beach. The skies are criss-crossed by soaring sea eagles and reef egrets, while the trees are home to Asian long-tailed monkeys and construction material for hairy-nosed otters. Ang Th ong is best known, however, for being a snorkeller’s paradise. Take the opportunity to visit and watch sea turtles, black coral, giant hydroids and schools of damselfish, soldierfish and white-and-yellow-striped coralfish in their natural habitat.
Tel +66 (0)29 396200, www.bluestars.info
SEA SPAS
If your version of laid-back is so louche that you wish the sea could come to you, book a thalassotherapy treatment at a Mandara Spa. Beloved by Nicole Kidman, JLo and P Diddy, seaweed treatments are renowned for their revitalising effect on the skin. Minerals, trace elements and vitamins promote cleansing and eliminate excess fluids. After a dehydrating flight, the full body wrap improves complexion and offers instant weight loss – a useful last-minute cheat for a beach-ready body. Mandara Spas can be found at the JW Marriott and Pearl Village in Phuket.
Tel +66 (0)76 338000 (JW Marriott) or +66 (0)76 327006 (Pearl Village), www.mandaraspa.com
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